New Tarm Solo 30 (New Pics link)

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twitch

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jul 10, 2008
209
Vassalboro Maine
www.colby.edu
First, I appreciate this forum and all the knowledgeable members here willing to help out newbies like me. I will be ordering my Tarm tomorrow. The dealer I'm going through sells the boiler alone, or with near boiler piping. It's about $1800 for the piping. Does this sound reasonable? I'm sure I could do it myself, but I have zero boiler experience. I'm thinking that it would save me a lot of time by buying it with the piping and do the rest of the install myself, which I think would be fairly simple.

Another question, and forgive my ignorance, but do you have to have a cold water supply to the system, or is it like the OWB's where it is sealed?
 
If you twin into your oil boiler, you won't need another water feed.
 
I should have mentioned that I will be using a HX in an existing oil fired hot air furnace. By your reply, I guess I will need to have a water feed. Thanks for the reply.
 
It's been kind of slow going, but I'm making progress on my install. The boiler room in the garage is almost complete, and I have the electrical an piping just about done in there. Still have to get the plenums for the air handler, pipe it and run pex to it. Below is a link to some pics if you are interested.

http://www.colby.edu/personal/s/sktwitch/Tarm_Solo_30_Install/index.html
 
Great pics! Looks like you'll be burning wood soon!
 
flyingcow said:
Good pics. Did your boiler guy have a solo 30 in stock, or did he have to order it? If he had to order it, when did you take delivery of it?

I ordered it through Revision Energy in Libery ME in late July and it was delivered late October.
 
Another question, and forgive my ignorance, but do you have to have a cold water supply to the system, or is it like the OWB’s where it is sealed?

If the system is pressurized, would be useful somewhat to have one, but once the system is in operation, all air out, the need to add water is just about non-existent, unless you have to depressurize to work on the plumbing. My Tarm is located where I do not have water available in the winter. I originally filled the system with a hose from the water supply. I filled it in the summer with temp about 70 to 4 psi. When in operation it runs about 15 psi. I had a small leak and lost the low-end pressure, but all I had to do was let the sytem cool down, add about 2 cups of water at a high point fill valve (poured this into the valve) until full of water, and all was back in operation.

I suppose an auto fill valve would be usefull in an overheat-blow pressure relief valve situation. I've tested my system with full burn, max heat (190) and power out, and the overheat loop plus automatic shutdown takes care of the heat without pressure going above 20 psi.
 
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