New to burning- secondary burn- Lopi Freedom Bay

[MN nice n warm]

Greetings all-

I am new to wood stove heating and couldn't be more addicted.

We bought our house last summer and it came with a Lopi Freedom Bay insert. during the inspection the chimney sweep told me to use it and use it often. I fully intend to follow-this directive.

I've been studying this craft for the last couple of weeks and am working well into my learning curve. A lot of my questions have been answered by existing threads and simple trial and error. I've had some excellent burns and some not so great ones as well.

I've basically been working with Kiln dried wood, bought by the bundle at the local hardware stores at a premium price, and whatever I am able to manage from my father in laws stash which provides the best face melting burns.

I'm to the point now of working on my temp control by the look of the burn and comparing to the actual thermometer. One thing I am struggling with is extending my burn times and not overly chewing through the wood and I am trying to establish a secondary burn.

- what is the best way to get the secondary burning and at what temp does it usually take place?

Also- anybody with Lopi inserts that have a few pointers to work on and watch out for would be greatly appreciated. I'm still kind of taming my nerves as I work to build up my loads, heat and burn times.

That's all for now, thanks.

 

[begreen]

Good secondary combustion does not start occurring until the primary air starts to be closed down. After the fire is burning robustly close the bypass and let the fire regain strength, then close down the air in increments. Close it down until the fire gets lazy. Then wait 5-10 minutes for it to regain strength. Then close it down some more. Repeat after 5-10 minutes until the fire stays lazy.

 

[Grimlock13]

Should there ever be a point where you close it all the way?

 

[prezes13]

Sometimes you might be able to close the primaries completely. All depends on your wood, draft, stove temp. But you should be able to close 3/4 or even more. Most of the time I am able to be closed like 7/8.

 

[begreen]

Should there ever be a point where you close it all the way?

It depends on the strength of the draft and dryness of the wood but yes, in some installations there may be lots of times when it can be closed all the way. Some air is still admitted to maintain the airwash and the secondaries air is not restricted.

 

[coldkiwi]

I can close the freedom all the way every night with a good hot fire and a big coal bed.It seems to like big splits of oak,I can get a good 8 to 9 hours sometimes longer.

 

[countybrown]

Sounds like you got the basic rundown already, but thought I would just add my $.02 worth as well.

To answer your question, the best way to get good secondary combustion is to make sure you have good dry wood and your stove is fully heated up with a well established fire. Here is what works well for me in my Hearthstone:

-After refilling the stove, let the primary air control open all the way for a few minutes until the new wood is burning well.
-Slowly start closing the primary air down in small increments. Close it slowly until you start to see the flames getting slower and lazy.
-Stop adjusting and let the fire burn a few more minutes until the flames start getting strong and fast again.
-Adjust the primary air control again, and continue to repeat this until your air is closed or darn close to it.

I usually do this process about 4 or 5 times over the course of 15-20 minutes. Sometimes my air control can be totally closed and be fine, while other times I have to leave it a bit open. It all depends on the fire and stove at that specific time. In my experience, there is really no hard fast rule about how far the primary will be closed. Just play it as it goes based on what your seeing in the firebox.

Same goes for what temp do good secondaries occur. You wont see good secondary burning until you primary is closed down quite a ways. This again is going to be sometime to play out on a case by case basis. For my stove, I am usually running around 500(ish) degrees Flue temp when my primary is closed down and my secondaries are really rolling along nicely.

Others may disagree, but I find that going by visual ques from the fire, rather than temps, are the best way to make adjustments to your burn.

Good luck, and hope that helps.

 

[MN nice n warm]

Sounds like you got the basic rundown already, but thought I would just add my $.02 worth as well.

To answer your question, the best way to get good secondary combustion is to make sure you have good dry wood and your stove is fully heated up with a well established fire. Here is what works well for me in my Hearthstone:

-After refilling the stove, let the primary air control open all the way for a few minutes until the new wood is burning well.
-Slowly start closing the primary air down in small increments. Close it slowly until you start to see the flames getting slower and lazy.
-Stop adjusting and let the fire burn a few more minutes until the flames start getting strong and fast again.
-Adjust the primary air control again, and continue to repeat this until your air is closed or darn close to it.

I usually do this process about 4 or 5 times over the course of 15-20 minutes. Sometimes my air control can be totally closed and be fine, while other times I have to leave it a bit open. It all depends on the fire and stove at that specific time. In my experience, there is really no hard fast rule about how far the primary will be closed. Just play it as it goes based on what your seeing in the firebox.

Same goes for what temp do good secondaries occur. You wont see good secondary burning until you primary is closed down quite a ways. This again is going to be sometime to play out on a case by case basis. For my stove, I am usually running around 500(ish) degrees Flue temp when my primary is closed down and my secondaries are really rolling along nicely.

Others may disagree, but I find that going by visual ques from the fire, rather than temps, are the best way to make adjustments to your burn.

Good luck, and hope that helps.

Thanks for all the good advice. I'm going to give it a try tonight.

 

[countybrown]

Thanks for all the good advice. I'm going to give it a try tonight.

So.... Do tell how things worked out! I've been wondering for a few days now. Lol

 

[MN nice n warm]

So.... Do tell how things worked out! I've been wondering for a few days now. Lol

I've really been chomping at the bit to get another burn going. Since I'm new and started so late in the season I don't have much of a bounty of wood and the bundle I bought proved to be just layered with mold. I know a lot of people say you can burn it anyway but I don't really feel comfortable with my small children in the house. I'm going to get some different wood and burn through the weekend. Will definitely keep you posted. But, this leads me to more questions.
1) people say most wood providers advertise dry wood, but is rarely the case. Is it realistic this time of year to get dry, seasoned wood? Does the season in which you purchase make a difference in quality and pricing?
2.) Anybody know of a reputable source that services the Mn twin cities- St Paul and Minneapolis areas?

 

[countybrown]

I've really been chomping at the bit to get another burn going. Since I'm new and started so late in the season I don't have much of a bounty of wood and the bundle I bought proved to be just layered with mold. I know a lot of people say you can burn it anyway but I don't really feel comfortable with my small children in the house. I'm going to get some different wood and burn through the weekend. Will definitely keep you posted. But, this leads me to more questions.
1) people say most wood providers advertise dry wood, but is rarely the case. Is it realistic this time of year to get dry, seasoned wood? Does the season in which you purchase make a difference in quality and pricing?
2.) Anybody know of a reputable source that services the Mn twin cities- St Paul and Minneapolis areas?

Understood.

I can't answer number 2, but I'll take a crack at 1.

"Seasoned" wood is a term that is very open to interpretation. Many people that sell firewood will sell you wood that they cut down a year or two ago, but didn't split until this past summer, or even until you called and wanted some. Wood does not really start to season and lose moisture until it's spilt and stacked.

Best thing you can do is call around and ask the seller. Ask when was the wood split? Was it stacked to dry or just piled? Ask if you can come look at it before you buy. Get a moisture meter and check some splits before he unloads. True seasoned wood looks and sounds different. It should make a "tink" sound when struck, not a thud. If it was stacked to dry, one end should look noticeably darker. I can always tell what end faced out on my stacks, because it is almost black compared to the rest.

That being said, I don't buy wood since i have access to plenty of my own. I do know wood sellers that run the gamut. Some like I already mentioned, and others that have rows, and rows and rows of stacked and covered wood that is truly seasoned.

Best of luck.

 

[MN nice n warm]

Understood.

I can't answer number 2, but I'll take a crack at 1.

"Seasoned" wood is a term that is very open to interpretation. Many people that sell firewood will sell you wood that they cut down a year or two ago, but didn't split until this past summer, or even until you called and wanted some. Wood does not really start to season and lose moisture until it's spilt and stacked.

Best thing you can do is call around and ask the seller. Ask when was the wood split? Was it stacked to dry or just piled? Ask if you can come look at it before you buy. Get a moisture meter and check some splits before he unloads. True seasoned wood looks and sounds different. It should make a "tink" sound when struck, not a thud. If it was stacked to dry, one end should look noticeably darker. I can always tell what end faced out on my stacks, because it is almost black compared to the rest.

That being said, I don't buy wood since i have access to plenty of my own. I do know wood sellers that run the gamut. Some like I already mentioned, and others that have rows, and rows and rows of stacked and covered wood that is truly seasoned.

Best of luck.

Good deal. Thanks countrybrown.

I found where to buy a moisture meter and will probably start calling around for some wood. I don't think I'll be able to hold off until later in the year to buy because I want to burn now and cant afford the bundle prices as much as I'm going to run the stove. I've started drawing up some plans for a wood shed as well to store it. I wasn't prepared to like this as much as I do.