New to Inserts

[bortolrs]

A few months ago we moved into a house with a Sweet Home Stove Works S-18 (or S-24) insert (photos attached). I am new to inserts, and have not really even used a fireplace much in the past 15+ years. I believe we understand the basics but we have not been having much luck the few times we have tried our insert.

When starting a fire we need to keep the door slightly open for well over a half hour. I know you need to give the fire time to start up before sealing the door, but 45 minutes or so seems like a really long time. The air control is wide open, so the first should be getting the maximum amount of air possible when the door is closed, but it still burns out pretty quickly if the door is closed. So how long is 'normal' to leave the door cracked before the fire will stay lit when the door is closed? I get that the fire will get a little smaller with less air coming in, but it totally goes out if the door is closed before about 45 minuets in. The fire appeared to burn better when the fan was going, but my understanding is that the fan is to blow air around the insert and push the hot air back into the room. So it doesn't make sense that the fire would burn better with that blowing unless there was some bleed air going into the fireplace as well. Or it could just be me thinking it burns better.

Somewhat related - the last fire we had was a little smoky inside. The flue was open, it just seemed to smoke a lot more than the previous fires, and with the door cracked open ~0.5" for about 45 minutes to get the fire going some of the smoke got into the house. The wood used was kiln dried, so it was not wet wood smoking. I'm sure there was something we did, but it we thought we did the same thing for that fire and the first 2, which did not smoke much at all.

Thank you for your input and help in getting us to understand and use our insert better!

Rob

 

[moresnow]

Did you clean the entire vent system including the potentially screened cap prior to trying to use the stove? If not, start there.
Also. Kiln dried can be deceiving. Its been surmised that some advertised kiln dried wood is only subjected to high heat long enough to kill critters so it can be transported.
Your experience so far sounds suspiciously like wet fuel or a restricted venting system.

 

[bortolrs]

Having everything professionally cleaned is on the list, we have not done it yet. I easily see how that would contribute to the smoke issue, though I would expect it to be a more consistent problem. Would a restricted vent system contribute to needing the door cracked open for a long time too? I guess I can see if it is not venting well there is not as much fresh air being delivered to the fire to keep it going.

 

[coaly]

You didn't give any information about the chimney. This is more important than the stove. That is what will evacuate the smoke and make the stove go. Is the chimney masonry or prefab metal, interior or exterior?

If this is a masonry chimney, the first thing you need to make sure of is that the insert is connected to a stainless steel liner that goes to the top of chimney. Removing the faceplate at top will expose the connection to flue that should be there. It should be the same square inch area (diameter) as Insert outlet. Next inspect the cap to see if there is a screen and it is clean. Then you need to know if the flue pipe that should be connected to the Insert is insulated or not. If you're not capable, these are the first questions for the sweep.
Most older stoves do not require the door to be left open for more air. Opening the air intake fully with paper, cardboard and kindling should take right off. Crack open a nearby window to see if this makes a difference. But make sure you have a liner connected from insert to chimney top first.

If the control at top is a flue damper, make sure it opens and closes fully. (I believe the AK model is the catalytic combustor model) A flu damper is a chimney control, that affects the stove by slowing the rising gasses moving up the chimney. It controls velocity, which decreases draft as it is closed partially. Leave it open until you learn the stove. Closing it too much or too soon slows the fire and allows creosote to form.

Yes, the blower should remove the convected heat from around the firebox to heat the air instead of masonry in the rear. The only way it affects the burn is a leak into firebox. That is normally found around the outlet pipe with a bright light in the firebox.

Normally the 18 and 24 is for wood length that will comfortably fit across.
Do you have some split and dry firewood?