Ashford 25 Insert Questions

[Highbeam]

The cat thermometer is a switch. Once the cat hits 550F, the needle moves upwards the 12 o'clock position and will not go further.

BKVP

I'm so glad you said this. I've had some arguments with folks about it, they seem to think it is an analog gauge.

 

[Highbeam]

A couple of things I’ve learned in >35 years, 200+ cords:
1) it’s critical that the door gasket is a perfect seal, so the only air ingress is the thermostatic valve.
2)In my case, I find that very fine adjustments around “2” make big changes in heat output. Start thinking like “I’m going to turn it up from 1.9 to 2.2 to really warm the place up”. The only time I ever turn it up over 2.5 (2300 sq fr, 2 floors, King version) is when it’s below zero outside and maybe a N wind blowing.
3)Lastly, I’ve done experiments like recently: had some trees cut down on my ~25-30 deg bluff to restore view. Had logs stacked in backyard, the very next day split a birch and spruce round (~10” diameter) into quarters.
Put them in living room about 10’ from stove. After 4 weeks the spruce quarter lost 50% of its weight and the birch 24%. Don’t need my moisture meter to conclude wood can dry very quickly in a dry warm place!!
I think it’s a good idea to stage wood from outdoor storage to somewhere indoors for even a very few days before use.

For folks reading, charlie has an old stove with actual numbers on the thermostat dial. BK eliminated markings on the dial many years ago.

Myself, I load dry cold wood directly from the outdoor covered woodrack or woodshed directly into the stove. I do believe that preheating the wood can only help speed combustion but I don't want the mess or wasted space of moving wood into the home for the next day. That just adds an additional wood moving step which I try to minimize.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

For folks reading, charlie has an old stove with actual numbers on the thermostat dial. BK eliminated markings on the dial many years ago.

Myself, I load dry cold wood directly from the outdoor covered woodrack or woodshed directly into the stove. I do believe that preheating the wood can only help speed combustion but I don't want the mess or wasted space of moving wood into the home for the next day. That just adds an additional wood moving step which I try to minimize.

That's the blessing we all enjoy! Hearing all the input and making informed decisions.

 

[GG Woody]

Since this bit of talk has started, I've been bringing more wood in.
I think I've liked bringing a smaller bin in twice a day more than bringing 1 back breaking load a day...
I might last longer this way and the wood rack looks better fuller.

 

[BKVP]

My wife drew the line when I was putting 50 half rounds in the house! That's how we became users of NIELS. But I travel less in the winter, so back to half rounds!

BKVP

 

[xshmoox]

I'm so glad you said this. I've had some arguments with folks about it, they seem to think it is an analog gauge.

Also since I’m reading through this page and just installed one for my sister/brother in law. And didn’t pay too much attention when hooking up the cat gauge wires, are they for lack of a better term polarity sensitive( does it matter which terminal they go on) as when we got it up to temp in seemed the gauge went left instead of towards 12 o’clock. So I’m assuming I hooked them on the wrong terminal as I didn’t see anything listed in the manual about it.

 

[BKVP]

Also since I’m reading through this page and just installed one for my sister/brother in law. And didn’t pay too much attention when hooking up the cat gauge wires, are they for lack of a better term polarity sensitive( does it matter which terminal they go on) as when we got it up to temp in seemed the gauge went left instead of towards 12 o’clock. So I’m assuming I hooked them on the wrong terminal as I didn’t see anything listed in the manual about it.

Yes, the two leads are incorrect. On back of gauge, loosen two nuts swap wires, tighten nuts, good to go. If it proves too much, as dealer to help please.

BKVP

 

[xshmoox]

Thank you! Not to much I’ll just have to go back when they let the stove cool off one day to pull the front cast plate. They will just have to use the gauge in reverse in the meantime is all

 

[m37charlie]

FYI I’ve been using Condar 2-1/8” thermometers in the stove top for a ling time. They have actual numbers.
One of my favorite OCD activities is kneeling down and looking at the catalyst and gauging temperature from color using a black body radiation color chart.
From that I can guesstimate heat output using black body radiation formula since I know the surface area of both sides of the catalyst.
For mine, it’s about 33k btu x (T/1000)^4, T in Kelvin (C + 273). Maybe a bit more since BKVP recently stated the rear side of the 2” thick catalyst is if anything hotter than the visible (through door and flame guard) front.
Right now it’s 8 hours after loading with mixed well dried spruce and birch. The catalyst isn’t glowing anymore (it glows a lot after reloading), I think because most of the volatiles have been cooked out and catalytically burned already and what’s left is essentially large chunks of fairly pure charcoal. The thermostat was on ~1.9 all night but because I’m downstairs (cats need to go out in early morning for hunting and pooping) I turned it up to ~2.2. So my thermocouple controlled BK fan cycles on and off automatically.

 

[BirdsatHiloMuni]

Hi all - new to forum and new to having a Blaze King. I recently had my chimney relined and got a new Ashford 25 Insert installed. I used it for the first time the other night - without reading the manual - and now I'm concerned about a number of things. Wanting some insight if you can help. First - when I used it the first time I watched a youtube video on how to operate the insert. I followed that guidance and didn't realize the first time you use it you should start a small fire and let it burn slowly for a long time. I burned a pretty hot fire - the paint hadn't cured and so a lot of smoke was in the house - wife freaked out - and we opened the door up to burn the fire out faster. I've since read the manual and have read that burning with the door open can ruin the catalyst and void the warranty.

-Is there a way for me to check and see if this has occurred?

Now - I'm kind of afraid to use it again. This is my first ever home with a fireplace and it seems like there's a lot to know and understand about the blaze king Ashford insert. The manual says "Once the logs are burning, latch the door shut. Once loading door is closed and combustor temperature begins to climb, close the bypass door, and turn on the fans to high.

-I see a lot of posts that the fire has to be in the "Active" zone to close the bypass and initiate the catalyst but the manual makes it seem like you should close the bypass before it gets to the red "active" zone on the thermometer. Do I wait until the temp has reached the red point or do I close the bypass sooner?

-Is there anything else that I'm missing or anything else that I need to know about? I'm using wood that I cut last winter and allowed to season outdoors under cover the entire spring/summer seasons.

Thank you so much for any responses, tips, help. I appreciate it.

Just wanted to come on and thank everyone so much for all of your help and great suggestions. I honestly don't think I'd be sitting in a warm home from wood burning right now without your help. I have the cat engaged, burning bright orange and everyone in the family is warm and happy. You all are awesome. If I can pay it forward for any newbie I'm happy to provide honest feedback. I'm still trying to dial in the longevity that people talk about, but feel like I'll get there as I learn this insert more and more. Thanks again!

 

[BKVP]

Just wanted to come on and thank everyone so much for all of your help and great suggestions. I honestly don't think I'd be sitting in a warm home from wood burning right now without your help. I have the cat engaged, burning bright orange and everyone in the family is warm and happy. You all are awesome. If I can pay it forward for any newbie I'm happy to provide honest feedback. I'm still trying to dial in the longevity that people talk about, but feel like I'll get there as I learn this insert more and more. Thanks again!

Try a load of large pieces and fill small around them. Best way to extend burn times.

BKVP

 

[m37charlie]

Made a mistake in my calculation.
For a King catalyst (both sides add up to 105 sq in), at 1000K = 727C), heat output of cat is 13000btu/h, not 33k. Chances as 4th power of temperature in deg K.
Add 273 to scale on right and subtract 273, then take 4th power and multiply by 13k BTU/h.

 

[spudman99]

I can comfortably get 12-13 hour burns on my Princess insert with the thermo set at 4pm and fan med speed. I have never gotten a 20 hour burn, and honestly I dont care. It fits my schedule of 8am load, go to work, get home at 7pm to warm lower level. Reload at 8pm and I'm good till morning. Easy peasy.

 

[BirdsatHiloMuni]

I can comfortably get 12-13 hour burns on my Princess insert with the thermo set at 4pm and fan med speed. I have never gotten a 20 hour burn, and honestly I dont care. It fits my schedule of 8am load, go to work, get home at 7pm to warm lower level. Reload at 8pm and I'm good till morning. Easy peasy.

Thanks! Would you mind posting a photo the next time you get it loaded up? I've seen a few photos online and people seem to be putting way more wood than I am but I'm not sure if that's what I should be doing.

 

[m37charlie]

Thanks! Would you mind posting a photo the next time you get it loaded up? I've seen a few photos online and people seem to be putting way more wood than I am but I'm not sure if that's what I should be doing.

If:
1) no air leaks (mainly door gasket airtight)
2) thermostatic air inlet functioning correctly
Then when you load wood you’re loading with chemical potential energy. Like filling a fuel tank. Not predetermining heat output rate but rather duration.
The RATE you use it is completely controlled by rotating that little black knob between 1 and 3. So there’s usually no problem with filling it up completely.
In “shoulder seasons” it’s sometimes more desirable to use a BK more like an RMH (rocket mass heater). I.e. smallish load, air control high enough to light cat, then cranked down to ~1.5; hopefully enough embers to spontaneously relight in pm.
The important thing is that if everything works properly, you should be able to put in dry wood, turn it way down, and the heat output will drop accordingly no matter whether full, half full or 1/4 full.

 

[BirdsatHiloMuni]

If:
1) no air leaks (mainly door gasket airtight)
2) thermostatic air inlet functioning correctly
Then when you load wood you’re loading with chemical potential energy. Like filling a fuel tank. Not predetermining heat output rate but rather duration.
The RATE you use it is completely controlled by rotating that little black knob between 1 and 3. So there’s usually no problem with filling it up completely.
In “shoulder seasons” it’s sometimes more desirable to use a BK more like an RMH (rocket mass heater). I.e. smallish load, air control high enough to light cat, then cranked down to ~1.5; hopefully enough embers to spontaneously relight in pm.
The important thing is that if everything works properly, you should be able to put in dry wood, turn it way down, and the heat output will drop accordingly no matter whether full, half full or 1/4 full.

Thanks!