New to splitting

[muncybob]

My first year splitting wood. Until yesterday I've used the Fiskars 4.5 lb splitting axe to further split some wood that was delivered to us but some was a little too big....mixed hardwoods and some split easier than others, but they all split with not too much extra effort. This past weekend I rambled into our woods and cut up 2 downed trees, 1 was a white oak(I think!) and the other a pine. The rounds are about 10 to 12" and the pine splits fairly easy(expected)...but when I took my first swing at the oak the axe just bounced off it(unexpected)! Even trying to start from the edges and work inward was a lot more effort than I anticipated! Do I need a particular approach to this or is there a reason the oak is so darn hard? I've resplit oak before(as mentioned above) and didn't have this. Tested moisture content and it's around 30% if that makes any difference? At this point I may just accumulate more wood and wait ti split it all with a rented hydraulic splitter.

 

[Wet1]

Are you sure it's white oak? White oak typically splits with little effort, even at 30%. Pics?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Also I always get the feeling that when people try to split the larger pieces they expect them to break apart on the first swing. That just is not going to happen a lot. Bigger pieces take a few swings to open them up. But don't keep hitting in the same place. Draw a straight (or as straight as possible) line with the axe. Hit on the far side; hit on the middle, hit on the near side, etc. That is much better than cutting them with the chain saw. I always hate to hear or see that. Better to learn the proper method of splitting.

 

[Ron Lloyd]

You probably would have avoided this but you didn't start with a crotch section of the oak did you? I agree with Wet1 that it doesn't sound like white oak.

Ron

 

[wendell]

Sounds like you have elm.

 

[drdoct]

Sounds like some of the oak we've got down here. There are tons of rounds the mega maul will just bounce off of until I pass out. That's why the $500 I spent in a hydraulic splitter is the best money I've spent in my life! Yes, some splits incredibly easy, but lots are dense and twisted.

 

[muncybob]

I'll try to post some pics....also try the start from far end and work towards myself. I did not expect it to split on the first swing but also didn't expect it to be so uncooperative!

 

[muncybob]

Here is what I'm trying to split. Maybe red oak?

 

[Wood Duck]

Those photos look like Black Cherry to me, and a pretty dry, dead one. Cherry should split fairly easily even when dry, unless you get a knot or crotch. Every tree will have a few sections that are hard to split, but I would expect relatively easy splitting from a cherry. Cherry also seasons relatively quickly, so it isn't a problem to leave a few of the tougher pieces a little larger for long burns. Keep at it. Once you get the hang of it, splitting wood with a splitting axe or a maul is not difficult, it is great excercise, and it is theraputic. Don't give in to the sit-on-your-butt-and-split crowd!

 

[WOODBUTCHER]

Yep, Black Cherry.....I'd use a wood grenade or spike and blast it apart.


WoodButcher

 

[muncybob]

Guess I have a lot to learn on wood ID!! I did check the MC on the freshly cut rounds and it was around 30%...if they are split soon would they be close to 20% by Feb.? I'm guessing that's too soon to reach that level?

 

[Wet1]

If split now, you should be at 25% or less by Feb. Split it a little smaller if you're concerned.