new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Sounds like it is surely enough total sq inches to accomadate the furnace...surprised that your SP is that high. Are there dampers in the duct system that are partially closed?
Is this the same duct system that the Clayton ran to? If it was big enough to distribute the heat from that monster it should do the job for the VF...
yeah its the same duct work I think its the small ducts thats making the pressure... I have one shut off
 
Some of that looks kinda freshly cut...still tests out good on the MC after being re-split and checked in the middle?
As @JRHAWK9 mentioned earlier, a wet split or two is enough to throw off the "normal" performance of a load...let alone a whole load of marginal wood...must not be too far off if you are getting some time on pilot (c) though...
I did check it I can check again. It does burn very hot
 
I think its more of a problem when the house gets to 68 its all out of flue and going to coals and then the house cools off quickly. I know they say not to leave the door open to burn them down but what if i did. I never did it because Im worried about braking it. Im talking about the front door not the ash pan door. I never leave any of them open
 
How do you measure SP?

Put your manometer hose on the high side nipple and slide the other end in the plenum. Make sure you don't open up too large of gap, as your reading won't be accurate then. You are then measuring your supply SP (which will be positive pressure). To measure your return SP, put the hose on the low side and slide it into the blower box, this will measure the vacuum of the return side.
 
I think its more of a problem when the house gets to 68 its all out of flue and going to coals and then the house cools off quickly. I know they say not to leave the door open to burn them down but what if i did. I never did it because Im worried about braking it. Im talking about the front door not the ash pan door. I never leave any of them open


I wouldn't do either....just asking for trouble, IMO. Just rake the coals forward and add a small piece of pine or kiln dried lumber on top of the coals. It will help burn the coals down faster while giving heat. Those types of wood really don't coal much so you wouldn't be adding to the coals.
 
I wouldn't do either....just asking for trouble, IMO. Just rake the coals forward and add a small piece of pine or kiln dried lumber on top of the coals. It will help burn the coals down faster while giving heat. Those types of wood really don't coal much so you wouldn't be adding to the coals.
yeah that's what I been doing
 
I'm going to call the manufacturer tomorrow see what they think I should do next. Its sounding like the house has to be sealed up for this to work and mines just not there.
 
I did check it I can check again. It does burn very hot
Wouldn't hurt to keep checking once in a while...wet wood is one of the most common issues when someone gets a new stove and it doesn't heat well. Wouldn't hurt to keep an eye on any/all of the little things we have discussed in this thread...once you get one thing fixed sometimes one of the other things you checked earlier (and was OK) can circle back around and bite you in the butt later on. One of the many hats I wear at work is "systems troubleshooting" and I have learned this lesson more than once, let me tell ya! ;lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: woodey
I know they say not to leave the door open to burn them down but what if i did. I never did it because Im worried about braking it. Im talking about the front door not the ash pan door. I never leave any of them open
I agree, no doors open...that could create forge like temps! I dont think it would work well anyways because of the deep firebox below the door...and leaving the ash pan door open is almost a guarantee for problems IMO. Pulling the coals forward is a good way to burn down coals with the Kuuma, especially with the way the primary air comes into the firebox...kinda like blowing on a candle.
 
I'm going to call the manufacturer tomorrow see what they think I should do next. Its sounding like the house has to be sealed up for this to work and mines just not there.

Really wish you had some heating bills (without wood help) you could look at to help quantify heat load.
 
  • Like
Reactions: brenndatomu
Really wish you had some heating bills (without wood help) you could look at to help quantify heat load.
That would answer the million dollar question wouldn't it?!
 
  • Like
Reactions: JRHAWK9
I agree, no doors open...that could create forge like temps! I dont think it would work well anyways because of the deep firebox below the door...and leaving the ash pan door open is almost a guarantee for problems IMO. Pulling the coals forward is a good way to burn down coals with the Kuuma, especially with the way the primary air comes into the firebox...kinda like blowing on a candle.
ok Ill just keep doing what Ive been doing then. I just hit 68 in the house tonight. Regular heat wave in here tonight haha
 
ok Ill just keep doing what Ive been doing then. I just hit 68 in the house tonight. Regular heat wave in here tonight haha


Blower on low or high? How about the Kuuma computer?
 
ok Ill just keep doing what Ive been doing then. I just hit 68 in the house tonight. Regular heat wave in here tonight haha
This is with not heating part of the house?
 
Really wish you had some heating bills (without wood help) you could look at to help quantify heat load.
The problem is the house was foreclosed and I bought it. The people that lost it heated it with the clayton so they wouldn't know. I would have to track down the original owner. Hes the only one who would have used the electric. Plus what did he keep the house with it? Most people that use electric don't keep it very warm. He did stop here one day when I first got the house and he told me he never had any problems heating it but I have my doubts.
 
The problem is the house was foreclosed and I bought it. The people that lost it heated it with the clayton so they wouldn't know. I would have to track down the original owner. Hes the only one who would have used the electric. Plus what did he keep the house with it? Most people that use electric don't keep it very warm. He did stop here one day when I first got the house and he told me he never had any problems heating it but I have my doubts.
Or I could turn them on myself for a month and find out but that would really kick my wallet in the teeth. I bet it would be a lot of watts
 
The problem is the house was foreclosed and I bought it. The people that lost it heated it with the clayton so they wouldn't know. I would have to track down the original owner. Hes the only one who would have used the electric. Plus what did he keep the house with it? Most people that use electric don't keep it very warm. He did stop here one day when I first got the house and he told me he never had any problems heating it but I have my doubts.
Call the electric company, they should have the records...
 
no this is the whole house on. I switched it back on this afternoon worried its putting to much pressure on the blower
Leaving that part of the house off wont hurt the blower...especially on low. When you block a fan (from either side) the amps go down, not up. You can try it...slide a piece of cardboard in the filter slot to block it off...you will hear the blower speed go up from reduced load
 
Status
Not open for further replies.