New Wood Stove Help

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

Caleb0789

New Member
Dec 25, 2020
5
South Central, Ohio
This year I decided to change over from propane to wood heat and I have hit every tribulation I was told I would (Messy, smoke, draft learning curve, moist fuel, etc.) but I have finally got the hang of it and it is progressing well... but I really hate my stove.

It i a Hitzer 893 or clone of one and it works but just burns at a voracious rate. I have found a Regency stove in my area but I cannot verify the model (lots of communication issues with an older guy on FB's seller listings). I can make out the serial number 244006930, has a secondary burner system, blower, and has 3 firebricks on the sides and 4 along the back for its configuration... I am assuming it is a F2400 model.

EDIT: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/252779296219497/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined

Am I correct and would such model heat 1000ft2 home in South Central Ohio (9ft walls with 12ft ceiling at center)?

Thanks guys!
 
Last edited:
Email the company the serial number and they should be able to sort out which model and year it is.

The Regency F2400 would be a big upgrade to a wood/coal stove in terms of wood usage, if that's what you have.

It is a smaller stove and rated for an 8 hour burn. That would be a deal breaker for me, but I heat 100% with wood, and like to sleep at night.

If you want longer burns, you want either a bigger firebox or a catalytic stove (or both).

You have a smaller space, but the taller ceilings call for more heat. I'd be looking for a big stove with excellent turn-down (but then again that's always my answer to people who want to heat with wood ;lol .)
 
Last edited:
Thanks, I think that's what I'll have to do. As long as it holds embers that I can relight the fire in the morning I should be fine, I do worry about the ceiling height.

Would you have any suggestions? I've looked into a Drolet Austral but I saw this used for $350 and thought heck yea.

Fitting it into my old fireplace but it's 37"W and 41"H so inserts are too small.
 
Thanks, I think that's what I'll have to do. As long as it holds embers that I can relight the fire in the morning I should be fine, I do worry about the ceiling height.

Would you have any suggestions? I've looked into a Drolet Austral but I saw this used for $350 and thought heck yea.

Fitting it into my old fireplace but it's 37"W and 41"H so inserts are too small.

An in-the-fireplace install on an exterior chimney is a big obstacle for a stove to overcome in terms of heat, because most of its heat output just goes outside. You will also be using fans for the entire cold season, whether it's an insert or a freestander, because you have to get the heat out of that heat sink spmehow.

Insulating the fireplace can mitigate this, but putting it outside the fireplace is even better though now you often have to drill a new hole in the chimney, because the stove needs a vertical rise before the first elbow. (The best option in terms of heat and efficiency is to locate it centrally and do a straight shot through the roof with the flue.)

I'd personally extend the hearth and put the stove in front of the fireplace (even if it would fit inside)- unless it's an interior chimney, then in the fireplace would be ok. I'd look for an insert and an oversized surround as a second (but still ok) choice.

But figure out your stove placement and venting before you go stove shopping. Nothing like picking a stove that requires a ton of extra work to work with your setup. Plus you will get much better feedback here if you already know that rear venting is/isn't a must, etc. (And do yourself a favor and pick a configuration other than freestander inside a fireplace on an exterior wall.)
 
Sorry I'm still very green but the fireplace is inside of the home, not exposed except when it exists the roof.

I will likely get a 15ft flexible pipe and attach it to about a foot of hard pipe with a 45deg elbow.

Would mineral wool around the flex pipe as it enters the chimney keep hot air from existing the surrounding flue gap?
 
With an interior masonry fireplace, a lot of the concerns about heat loss go away. The stove still radiates a lot into the brick, but that heat stays in the house.

You should shop for a pre-insulated liner that will fit your stove and chimney... usually a 6" insulated liner will be less than 8" in diameter after the insulation.

You should also cap it around the liner on the top, and install a blockoff plate at the bottom to stop heated air from going up the chimney around the outside of the liner.
 
That stove will more than heat a 1000 sq ft place in Ohio. It's a decent one.
 
Yes if it's a 2400. A ceiling fan will help move the hot air that will want to pocket near the peak.