I’ve searched threads trying to identify this fisher but I’m a little confused as the dimensions don’t seem to match up to the user manuals that were posted in another thread. Got this stove from a friend and plan on putting it in my shop, it did not come with all the fire brick and I’m a little confused on the installation of that. By the way the inside looks it was designed to have the floor covered and approximately halfway up the side however other photos I’ve seen the brick appears to cover almost the entire inside walls? Any advice would be appreciated.
Newbie attempting to Identify Fisher
- Thread starter Sagearrowhead
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Welcome to the Forum;
Yes, you have a Mama Bear.
Notice the door is very close to the angle iron corners. Papa uses the same door, but is wider, so there will be about an inch of stove front showing next to door on the larger model Papa.
First, see if when a brick is laid on the floor, will a side brick, standing up, go under the brick retainer? (1 1/2 angle iron to hold in place)
Early stoves had short pieces of angle iron called clips at brick joints, so one clip holds 2 bricks. Later stoves had solid long pieces of angle iron the entire length for this same purpose.
IF a brick lays flat on bottom, and a brick will stand up on edge under retainer, the bottom goes in first. Most will not fit this way. This was the first design, and bricks had to be installed after shipping. There was nothing to hold them right to the walls during shipping and bricks were broken. Soon fabricators lowered the retainers, so a side brick sets on stove bottom, and the bottom is placed last to hold them tight to wall.
Set them across the back first. Then down the sides and last across the bottom to hold them in place around the bottom. Small cut pieces finish at front on sides and front. There are threads on this forum for each model.
The stoves you see with a second course use one brick on each side above the lower course. This was done to increase firebox temperature striving for a cleaner burn. It is not necessary for sidewall protection.
Quick tip; when installing, clean, clean and clean some more. No ash, brick crumbles, or any debris will fit between bricks. They can fit snug sometimes. If any small spaces are left between them, they will fill in with ash soon enough making them tight.
Always burn on an inch of ash when cleaning stove out.
You will learn you can remove the fine ash from front that burns down overnight each morning. Rake the glowing coals with unburned charcoal, if any from the rear.Rake a little ash forward as well. This preventsthe need for letting the fire to go out to remove ash.
Also when removing ash, light newspaper toward the back to start a draft. This will prevent fly ash from settling in the house and take it up the flue if any is airborne in front of the stove. The chimney is your vacuum cleaner. Learn the tricks and you’ll avoid common misconceptions.
Yes, you have a Mama Bear.
Notice the door is very close to the angle iron corners. Papa uses the same door, but is wider, so there will be about an inch of stove front showing next to door on the larger model Papa.
First, see if when a brick is laid on the floor, will a side brick, standing up, go under the brick retainer? (1 1/2 angle iron to hold in place)
Early stoves had short pieces of angle iron called clips at brick joints, so one clip holds 2 bricks. Later stoves had solid long pieces of angle iron the entire length for this same purpose.
IF a brick lays flat on bottom, and a brick will stand up on edge under retainer, the bottom goes in first. Most will not fit this way. This was the first design, and bricks had to be installed after shipping. There was nothing to hold them right to the walls during shipping and bricks were broken. Soon fabricators lowered the retainers, so a side brick sets on stove bottom, and the bottom is placed last to hold them tight to wall.
Set them across the back first. Then down the sides and last across the bottom to hold them in place around the bottom. Small cut pieces finish at front on sides and front. There are threads on this forum for each model.
The stoves you see with a second course use one brick on each side above the lower course. This was done to increase firebox temperature striving for a cleaner burn. It is not necessary for sidewall protection.
Quick tip; when installing, clean, clean and clean some more. No ash, brick crumbles, or any debris will fit between bricks. They can fit snug sometimes. If any small spaces are left between them, they will fill in with ash soon enough making them tight.
Always burn on an inch of ash when cleaning stove out.
You will learn you can remove the fine ash from front that burns down overnight each morning. Rake the glowing coals with unburned charcoal, if any from the rear.Rake a little ash forward as well. This preventsthe need for letting the fire to go out to remove ash.
Also when removing ash, light newspaper toward the back to start a draft. This will prevent fly ash from settling in the house and take it up the flue if any is airborne in front of the stove. The chimney is your vacuum cleaner. Learn the tricks and you’ll avoid common misconceptions.
Thank you for the information, it is appreciated. This is my first wood stove so this will be very helpful.
Similar threads
