newbie. elm wood.

[nathan125]

I got a few truck loads of elm for cheap. I assume it;s green because the bark is on tight and its pretty heavy.
it's damp because of being green and because it got rained on.
my question is what should i do about processing it?
I have a hydraulic splitter to use, 15 ton. but i don't want to damage it and the rounds are large.
should i just stack it and let it cure until next fall then split or what?

I know it sounds dumb but i am new and don't want to damage the splitter, that is the main concern.

 

[gzecc]

It won't season much if its not split. Try the splitter. If it won't split it, rent a more powerful splitter for a day. Then get it stacked in single rows off the ground. It may be ready for next year if its in a good spot.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Split it NOW! You won't hurt the splitter, even if it stalls. If it does stall, back off, don't keep pushing.

 

[Gunny]

Agree X 2. If you can split it now then do it! Just be careful with the splitter. If that thing starts bogging and choking and straining then like Mr Whoopee said back off. YOU CAN damage a splitter, especially if it's not made right/heavy. Gzecc is correct if the machine is screaming for help then rent one. Elm can be no joke and someone else's equipment is something you do not want to damage.

 

[Standingdead]

The bad thing about elm is its real stringy when you split it, the interwoven grain pulls apart rather than pops like most other hardwoods. Those splits are hard on a small splitter and a pain to stack if your into neat stacks. The good thing about elm is its stringy. It's got decent BTU's and those " fingers" or " splinters" of wood sticking out make it easy to start a fire with. it's kinda funny how many times in life you see whatever is good in something is also bad from a different perspective.

 

[BillLion]

The bad thing about elm is its real stringy when you split it, the interwoven grain pulls apart rather than pops like most other hardwoods. Those splits are hard on a small splitter and a pain to stack if your into neat stacks. The good thing about elm is its stringy. It's got decent BTU's and those " fingers" or " splinters" of wood sticking out make it easy to start a fire with. it's kinda funny how many times in life you see whatever is good in something is also bad from a different perspective.

I've got a bunch of elm CSS. It was a beast; definitely needed to borrow the hydraulic splitter for that! I'm glad to hear about the burn benefits, but I have a question. Does Elm take a long time to season? My maple CSS around the same time is about 22% now while the Elm is around 28%.

 

[gzecc]

I've got a bunch of elm CSS. It was a beast; definitely needed to borrow the hydraulic splitter for that! I'm glad to hear about the burn benefits, but I have a question. Does Elm take a long time to season? My maple CSS around the same time is about 22% now while the Elm is around 28%.

At least one year after its split and stacked correctly.

 

[Jags]

I am still scratching my head on how a splitter can be damaged. If the relief valve is set proper and working it should never build enough pressure to hurt the machine. Even if the wood fails to split.

Split it NOW. There is NO advantage to waiting.

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Put it on your to-do list, no reason to wait, that's just making a longer time before you can burn it. We have hydraulics for a reason, so fire it up, if you get some pieces that are too tough for the 15ton, throw it to the side till you decide what to do with them.... But no reason to wait unless you just can get to it.....

 

[Paulywalnut]

Dutch Elm disease got almost all the elm around here 20 years ago. Red or swamp elm still around which I like.
American elm is much different and needs to be dry to burn right. It does split easier green. Very stringy dry. Good luck.

 

[longboarder2]

elm? leave it wherever you found it unless you are REALLY hard-up for some firewood.

 

[Gunny]

If the relief valve is set proper and working it should never build enough pressure to hurt the machine. Even if the wood fails to split.

If and buts were candy and nuts we would all have a Merry Christmas. Not his machine. Who knows how the thing is "set proper" or if the lines are dry rotted, motor is weak. The strain came cause alot of problems you or me cannot see. We don't even know what kind of machine it is? If you could not damage a machine then why do members post problems or machines that need replacement parts? Why do they sell replacement parts if they are not needed? Just say'n. Good luck to you Nathan.

 

[blades]

Nothing wrong with Elm, various species, some like Slippery( also called Piss) Elm once split will dry out in about one season ( your area might very some). Most store bought splitters have short wide ( fast spreading) wedges on them, which with stringy wood like Elm, Hickory & similar makes them a bit difficult to split. A longer narrow wedge with a follow up spreader behind is more efficient at these types of wood. Most Elm around now is at best a medium BTU wood, still worth the effort though. Lousy stuff to attack with a maul and wedge though.

 

[BillLion]

Lousy stuff to attack with a maul and wedge though.

That's the lesson I learned this year...wow! I love to split by hand because of the exercise, but I had to borrow a hydraulic splitter to get through a big pile of elm rounds I got free.

 

[Jags]

If and buts were candy and nuts we would all have a Merry Christmas. Not his machine. Who knows how the thing is "set proper" or if the lines are dry rotted, motor is weak. The strain came cause alot of problems you or me cannot see. We don't even know what kind of machine it is? If you could not damage a machine then why do members post problems or machines that need replacement parts? Why do they sell replacement parts if they are not needed? Just say'n. Good luck to you Nathan.

Anything mechanical can break or wear out. A splitter is based on mechanical/hydraulic force. If it is not up to the task then walk away. My point was that unless the splitter is a piece of junk there should be no fear in using it for its intended purpose. I wish not to hijack this thread. Feel free to start a thread for further discussion if you wish. I gotz a thing for splitters.

 

[Gunny]

I agree with you and what you just said Jags. I also agree with the overall design and function of a log splitter. The thing I don't agree with is Nathan was saying he DID NOT WANT to damage the friends splitter. We both know what that means, don't be the last man holding the grenade/splitter when it goes off/self destructs. That's all I'm say'n. If the tread pops up, I will participate. Don't think we will disagree on much though. Good luck Nathan! Sorry your thread turned into a measuring contest. SPLIT IT NOW!

I wish not to hijack this thread.

I also agree with this.

 

[oldspark]

I usually cut elm and let it set for 6 months or so before I split it and then it splits well with a hyd. splitter but in no hurry to dry it so I have that option.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I have to agree with oldspark on this one for sure. I hate splitting elm when it is green. I'd wait until spring to split it or at least late winter.

Also, elm can vary a lot. Some will be twisted badly and really stringy while others will split decently. All the elm I've split when green were terribly stringy. This is where elm gets the bad rap because with that stringy crap, you put it into the stove and it acts like kindling wood. This is why we always wait now for the elm to die and then drop its bark or at least most of the bark. Then it splits very easy.

On harming the splitter, usually not.

 

[nathan125]

I'll try to split Sunday.
The wood is quite wet from the rainstorms we have had before i picked it up today.
So we;ll see how it goes.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I'll try to split Sunday.
The wood is quite wet from the rainstorms we have had before i picked it up today.
So we;ll see how it goes.

That is just exterior moisture and can evaporate fairly quick. It is the interior moisture that causes problems. Hence, the need for splitting.