Newbie getting a wood stove. Advise please!

[maplegirl]

Hi,
My husband and I are getting a new wood stove tomorrow. We are buying a Vermont Castings Resolute Acclaim (the floor model). We are also buying a hearth pad in Vermont Black Slate from the dealer. We are installing the stove ourselves in the living room. The house does not have a pre-existing chimney, fireplace or wood stove.... we are starting from scratch! The living room has a cathedral ceiling, so we will be installing stove pipe up the first 10 feet, then switching to the expensive chimney pipe and going through the roof. We were thinking about getting one of those chimney kits from Lowes. We're pretty young and fearless, so I'm sure everything will be fine. I am also a safety NUT!! Does anyone have any advise on pretty much anything at all? Is there a good website that has instructions on how to install the chimney? Do I need to do something special since it is a cathedral ceiling and we won't be going through the attic? We live in Holbrook, MA (South of Boston). Any good places to get wood or better places to get the chimney materials? Thanks in advance!
Maplegirl

 

[wg_bent]

The owners manual for your stove should have the instructions, also look at ventingpipe.com there's good info there also.

 

[Gibbonboy]

Since you're deep in the heart of the Peoples' Republic of Mass., make sure you check your local regs, they may have some special requirements. Asking what the inspector wants to see beforehand is the easiest way to avoid expensive changes later. Welcome to the woodburning club!

 

[Highbeam]

Be very very sure to cut the hole in the right spot. The last thing you want is a crooked stove pipe because you failed to properly drop a plumb bob.

 

[webbie]

Planning is the key.
First, read: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove

A couple other hints....

1. That stove needs a bottom heat shield unless you are installing it on a concrete floor.
2. Before you purchase any chimney, download a manual from any manufacturer (they are online), so that you can see the various type of kits and fittings available.

I see by your post that you will be using a cat. ceiling (sloped ceiling) kit. There are two types of these, some use a sheet metal box which is framed in, and others use a clamp which frames in at the roof level.

Of course, I'll save Elk (our resident Ma. building official) some words by saying you should get a permit at your local town hall. The knowledge of inspectors varies, but up here in Ma. you are more likely than not to get someone with experience in these matters.

 

[maplegirl]

Thanks for your thoughts everyone! I know I wrote that we're 'young and fearless", but boy, there are so many things that can happen. I'm getting pretty worried about all the stuff I don't know. Like:
How do you start and maintain a fire?
Can I really leave my fire burning when I go to bed (the Girl Scout in me screams "NO)?
What kind of thermometer should I get and where do I put it?
What temp. should the stove stay at while it's on?

AHHHHH! So many questions!! Should I just learn by doing?

Also, does anyone know where I can get a cathedral ceiling chimney kit? My local Lowes doesn't have one. We were thinking of just using the normal ceiling kit. But then what do we do with the part that should go in the attic?

We've talked to the stove sales people, the local fire department, the building inspector and our insurance company. They all seem so nonchalant, but I want to make sure that we do this right!


Thank you again!!

 

[hookspacken]

Last year was my 1st year burning wood, I had some of the same worries as you. You just need to ease itnto it and you will learn your stove. Eventually, after a few weeks or a month or so, you will get up the courage to run an overnight fire, and it will all be good from there. I have to tell you, installing a wood stove in my home has been THE best home improvement that I have done, I completely enjoy it!

 

[Dunadan]

Last year was our first year too.

An overnight burn is nothing. You'll find it's not that scary, especially since you can keep checking on it during the night.

The real test is to leave the stove running during the day when you'll be out for several hours. That's a bit scary the first couple times. Especially when you are already out and you start thinking you left the stove door open

 

[senorFrog]

I think I 'd be more worried about the install than the run and maintain stuff. What other DIY projects have you or your husband done before? Why not try to find a good local installer? Things can get out of control quickly unless you're very handy and know the codes. I'm not really sure this is DIY project. Also, there are different product lines within the stove pipe companies and the better quality stuff is not sold through Lowes or HD.

 

[webbie]

You will not even have to ask a lot of these questions - just get good at searching the forum, our QA and looking at our articles. For instance, want to know how to start a fire:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/start_a_wood_fire

example of temperature QA:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/ind...er_location_temperature_on_my_resolute_stove/

and we are here when you get stumped....

 

[jtp10181]

Go to a wood stove dealer and get the chimney. If you tell them what you are doing they can get you all the right parts.

 

[hearthtools]

I dont understand?
Your stove dealer did not sell you the pipe?
I just think it is crazy to send a wood stove out my door without selling the Customer Pipe or at least try to sell them pipe.
Not for Money reason but for Safety reasons.
There are so Many DYI that go out and buy venting that are not for the stove the dealer sold them and then come back to the dealer because the stove is not venting correctly OR THE HOUSE BURNED DOWN.

If you dont know much about installing a venting systems Leave it to the PROS or go the the pros for help.
And Im not saying Home Depo.

 

[elkimmeg]

Maple girl has you or your husband ever cut into a roof and flashed in a flange? Do you own a sawsall? Not saying it is beyond your capabilities but an ill placed cut leaves a huge patch

You might hire a carpenter if you are not experienced enough to make the cut and install the roof section

BTW That is an excellent choice of stoves backed up by a quality manufacturer. American Made right here in New England In Vermont. Not an outsourced cheap quality Chinese casting but real American Craftsmanship at its best. A fine solution made in USA by legitimate American workers. Thanks for supporting fellow New Englanders workers. I have owned one and can help you with its operations. I just wish more purchasers had American pride and support fellow citizens

 

[webbie]

Sounds like, according to the customer, that the dealer was not very interested in helping them with all the chimney issues. I guess they had better things to do......

Being as the pipe can often be had for a discount off the list price, it's tough for a customer to pay more when they are not getting service to match! Just for example, the plumbing supply down the street from my old house sold Hart and Cooley for 30% off list to anyone over the counter.

When I had a store, we would help the customer with exact advice and parts to DIY their own chimneys....AND, we would even offer a discount on the pipe for DIYers. We did this because:
1. We could afford to (we bought pipe in large quantities at good discounts)
2. We could only install X amount of stoves, so we loved DIY jobs....made it so we could turn over more product.
The point is that the dealer has to earn their money with advice and service....

As far as installing insulated chimney, it is basic carpentry. Elk is right that the hardest part is the flashing - at least doing it right!

Now, if elk would just avert his eyes for a moment, I will mention this - depending on the age and condition of the roof, you may be better not doing it "exactly right". What I mean is that if the shingles are old and brittle, you may want to do a fudge job.....I did LOTS of them in the early days before I hired my installer who knew how to take up shingles correctly! Basically, I'd cut the hole, place tar up the side, slide the flashing up under at least a course of shingles, and then nail it.....some silicone or tar on the nails and perhaps a line of tar down the two sides at the edge would complete the job.

One in a long while, I would get one that leaks slightly....a little of that Aluminum Roof Coating would always fix it for good.

I mention this because installations in the field are often different than the book. If your shingles are newer....well, then you want to take them up if possible. That is a tough job and best done with a shingle puller and someone who knows what they are doing. Also, perhaps you have a couple extra shingles in the garage from when they last roofed it....that can help if any shingles get screwed up.

When people used to ask me how easy it was to install stoves, I'd say "it's only the first one that is the hardest, but you only get to do the first one".

 

[BrotherBart]

Heck they are only 30 miles from Elk. I think they need to contract this chimney job out to him. :cheese:

 

[Harley]

Young and fearless is good... BUT

You've already made a good choice at a good, quality stove. Now the fun part begins as far as getting it set up and running properly. If you are going to do it yourselves, first thinking about the top down - are you and your husband OK with cutting a hole through the roof and getting it in the right place, and making sure it is sealed up properly after doing it? I think everyone has pointed it out well already - there's a lot of issues involved there, and I really wouldn't depend on the "pro's" at lowes or HD to give you the right answer as to what to buy and what would be code compliant.

Web has listed some links to help find some of the stuff you need,
and Elk has spelled out some of the concerns about doing the installation yourself if you haven't done anything like this before.

If I were you - I'd probably look for a professional installer, especially if you have some worries about operating the stove once it's in. Once it's set up right - you should not have any problems.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Can I really leave my fire burning when I go to bed (the Girl Scout in me screams "NO)?

AHHHHH! So many questions!! Should I just learn by doing?

Also, does anyone know where I can get a cathedral ceiling chimney kit? My local Lowes doesn't have one. We were thinking of just using the normal ceiling kit. But then what do we do with the part that should go in the attic?

We've talked to the stove sales people, the local fire department, the building inspector and our insurance company. They all seem so nonchalant, but I want to make sure that we do this right!


Thank you again!!

girl scout huh? got a chuckle from me , i probably went on more girl scout camping excursions than most girl scouts (mom was a long time scout leader and i was the "pack mule" most of the time had two sisters go through the whole gambit so i got to do it twice mom said i went in the army to get away from it lol)

anyway , the ceiling support box for a cathedral ceiling is different and the regular box wont do. check with the "sos or special order" desk at lowes to see if they can get you the right kit , or check other sources. also to drop a name, look for "magnaflex" in here he is a rep from a chimney pipe manufacturer and may be able to help you with precisely what you need as well as provide you with support as far as venting questions are concerned. he posts his website in his signature box. but i'll slide it in here just to save time (broken link removed)

hope this helps ya,
mike ESW

 

[maplegirl]

Thanks everyone. You've answered some of my questions and given me a lot to think about. I have a chimney installer coming tomorrow to give me a free estimate in case we go with that route. Jason and I have done quite a few DIY projects in the past year (installing drywall, knocking down walls, installing a tankless hot water heater, moving plumbing lines, installing power outlets, etc....). Fun stuff. I'm going to talk to the dealer tomorrow when we pick up the stove and hearth pad and either buy the chimney materials from him or get a VERY detailed list of what we need and a recommendation of where to buy it. I can't wait to have a warm fire to sit in front of in the winter. Thank you all and please, keep posting your thoughts. I'm learning so much from this forum. The "What not to do" board is great too!
Maplegirl

 

[elkimmeg]

here is what I would do measure where the stove location will be That will be determined by two factors the distance from combustibles with your stove without a rear heat shield that is 24 " to the combustible wall and 15" to side walls if you place the stove right then single wall connector pipe will also meet the clearance requirements

Now that the stove position is set measure from the inside wall to the center of the flue outlet. Not go to the roof and add 7.5" to that measurement and measure in from the gable end. and establish an approximate location Strip out a 3/3' area of shingles You now should be able to establish where the rafters are in your area you should see enough sheathing nails to figure it out

the common distance of rafter spacing is 14.5" using !6" on center rafter spacing. Measure over between the rafters 7.5" I then use a bell wire long 1/4" drill bit I drill down a piolet hole to help line things up then attach a b plumb bob to center the stove position I check clearances to combustibles to see is they are ok. Remember there is no penalty for having more clearance distance

At that point you have the reference point to cut the necessary holes in the plaster ceiling and the plywood roof sheathing. Follow the pipe manufacturer's instruction for the correct size holes

Install the support box flange and begin replacing the roof shingles The first shingles go under the lower part of the flange the next ones go over with roof cement sealing then to the flange each consecutive course up the top shingle go over the flange You just finished the hardest part of the job the rest should line up and become quite easy connecting the connector pipe

Your outside chimney pipe must extend 3' above the roof and 2' higher than any part of the roof or any other structure with in 10' that is minimum code compliance Not the roof cap top,
but where the exhaust exits. Ii could be possible you need more than 3' above the roof to comply with the 3 2' higher than 10 foot distance you may need 5 or 6' exposed.

Thats what is involved making a chimney cut. The next hard part is dealing with 400 lbs of stove movement

 

[stoveguy2esw]

here is a picture of what elk is talking about also here is a link to describe why its important to follow http://www.englanderstoves.com/help/WoodStove/10-2.html

hope this helps

 

[Gooserider]

What is the pitch on the cathedral ceiling roof? (how steep is it?) Overly steep roofs get tricky to work on. The above advice is excellent, it might also be worth "splitting the difference" - get a pro to do the ceiling box install, and maybe put up the outside pipe (note that if the pipe is tall you may need extra support brackets) then you deal with the inside work of getting the stove into place.

Congratulations on the purchase, and welcome to the Hearth...

Gooserider