Newbie with install questions

[bhale]

Hi All!

I'm new to this forum and new to woodstoves but this looks like a Great site!

We recently had a very tall garage/woodshop completed and put a big QuadraFire StepTop stove in the lower floor. The stove pipe runs 36' from the stove straight up and out the roof. Except for the last section where it passes through the roof, all the stove pipe is your basic black single wall pipe. I'm now starting to get concerned about build up in the pipe. Why? I've got 2 of those Rutland burn thermometers, one on the pipe at the stove and one about 20' higher in the woodshop. I can easily get the lower one to read Overfire and the upper one won't won't even get into the Burn Zone.

Is this something i need to worry about? Do i need to replace some single wall pipe with double wall in order to get more heat to the upper pipes?

Thanks!
Brian

 

[Renovation]

Yes, for less creosote buildup, less risk of chimney fire, and better draft, you should replace all your single wall stovepipe with double wall.

Yes, it is $, and it's up to you to decide if the performance and peace of mind are worth it. I would do it. HTH.

 

[begreen]

Your concern is justified. It's not recommended to have a single wall run over 8-10 ft for this reason. Lot's of heat loss there.

 

[bhale]

Thanks Folks!

I was afraid that would be the case. Looks like i didn't save much money after all.

Is there a way to keep some single wall pipe in the run, like maybe a few feet at the stove end? Seems a waist to let all that heat escape.

Brian

 

[firefighterjake]

Welcome to the forum.

And yes . . . this is a concern. Also pay more attention to the numbers vs. the warnings . . . most thermometers used by wood burners are set up with the "You're burning too cold dumbie", "You're burning A-OK" and "Whoa Momma . . . are you trying to burn the place down" warnings for use on the stove pipe . . . placing this same thermometer on the stove will not match up to the warnings . . . i.e. you could be burning too cool, but according to the thermometer you're burning OK or vice versa.

Also, the numbers are not hard and fast . . . thermometers used with stoves are notorious for not being spot on accurate . . . use them as a general guide.

 

[bhale]

Interesting thought......

I have both thermometers on the stove pipe, should i put one on the stove instead?

Anyway, researching what pipe i need and where to get it. $$$$$ I'm sure 30'+ of double wall won't be cheap...... :bug:

Brian

 

[firefighterjake]

Interesting thought......

I have both thermometers on the stove pipe, should i put one on the stove instead?

Anyway, researching what pipe i need and where to get it. $$$$$ I'm sure 30'+ of double wall won't be cheap...... :bug:

Brian

I like to have one thermometer on the stove and one on the flue . . . gives me more feedback on both components -- keeps me from over-firing the stove and lets me know when I can start cutting back the air for a good, sustained secondary burn . . . and lets me know how hot my flue gases are.

 

[LLigetfa]

Your concern is justified. It's not recommended to have a single wall run over 8-10 ft for this reason. Lot's of heat loss there.

I agree but I would not be concerned about too much heat going up the flue with doublewall the full length. There is only air between the inner and outer pipe and in a long vertical run there will be enough convection to extract the right amount of heat from the pipe. Even insulated class A pipe will give off a good bit of heat. I ran radiation shield over the class A going through the master walk-in-closet both as extra protection and to let less heat into the closet. We keep the bedroom closed off from the rest of the house, and the radiation shielded class A going through the space keeps the bedroom at the perfect temperature.

 

[begreen]

That long run of double-wall will still emit quite a bit of heat. It's only air insulated pipe.

By the way, I would also have a key damper in this long run to regulate draft.

 

[Renovation]

I ran radiation shield over the class A going through the master walk-in-closet both as extra protection and to let less heat into the closet. We keep the bedroom closed off from the rest of the house, and the radiation shielded class A going through the space keeps the bedroom at the perfect temperature.

Hi LL,

Could you tell me what you used for radiation shield? What's the total insulation around the pipe in your closet--for example, it in a chase as well? Is the chase insulated? Does it get cold when you're not running your stove? Just curious, thanks!

 

[bhale]

..........

By the way, I would also have a key damper in this long run to regulate draft.

I'm not sure i understand why a damper is a good idea, can you elaborate please?

Thanks
Brian

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Welcome to the forum bhale.

A damper may or may not be required. Lots of folks install them whether they are needed or not. Most installations do not need them, however they won't hurt anything either. Just adds a bit more control if you need it with your tall chimney.

We place one thermometer on the center of the stove top and the other about 18" from the stove on the pipe. When burning good our stove will run from 350-700 and the flue will run around 350. We do get the flue warmer on reloads but that is just to get the wood burning good and then we start closing the draft. We end up with the draft a bit below 1 (scale of 0-4).

I'm really wondering. It sounds like you have two floors in the garage. How did you insulate to go into the second floor using only single wall pipe?

 

[bhale]

Thanks!

I guess i should post some pics but maybe i can describe it. The garage is built into a slight rise in the ground. In the corner of the garage there is 2 sets of steps, one on the south wallgoing from ground level to the upper floor, the other on the east wall going from ground level to the lower floor. These 2 sets of steps form a 90 deg corner where the wood stove sits. The stove pipe goes straight up through a 3' square hole in the floor and out the roof. There is a 5' high 90 deg block wall that sits between the stove and the steps. Right now the hole in the floor is protected by open framing.

Brian