Hello everyone. I am totally new at this wood burning for heat thing. I got really sick of paying the gas man when I live in the woods and see all of this renewable fuel growing right in my back yard. I went out and bought myself a new hearthstone Clydesdale insert and cut down a bunch of trees. The problem is I didn't have time to let the wood cure. They do burn, but they take a long time to get going and I have to burn the stove wide open to get it hot. I think that because I'm doing this, the fire doesn't last very long. I load it up before bed at about 11 and it is completely out at 6. I was told that with this stove, I could get about 10 hours of burn time. Was I lied to, or am I doing something wrong? My dream was that I would be able to heat my 1700 square foot house. I don't want to buy wood. should I? or should I just keep doing it this way and learn for next year?
newby needs help
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Unseasoned wood will not have the performance of good dry wood. Much of the btu reserves are being consumed to boil the log dry. This WILL result in a lower BTU output and reduce overall stove performance.
With good dry wood, you will have a totally different stove on your hands.
If you do go down the path to purchase wood, ya better make sure it is seasoned. A very high percent of the sellers are NOT selling ready to burn, dry wood. Moisture meters can take the guess work out of the purchase.
If you choose to continue burning the unseasoned wood, you will want to inspect your pipe regularly. Heavy buildup can occur pretty darn fast, and that get dangerous.
With good dry wood, you will have a totally different stove on your hands.
If you do go down the path to purchase wood, ya better make sure it is seasoned. A very high percent of the sellers are NOT selling ready to burn, dry wood. Moisture meters can take the guess work out of the purchase.
If you choose to continue burning the unseasoned wood, you will want to inspect your pipe regularly. Heavy buildup can occur pretty darn fast, and that get dangerous.
Hello Big!
Welcome to the forum.
If your wood is not properly dried, you'll have exactly the problems you're seeing. If you cut and split all that wood this summer, then next winter it will be ready to go. The moisture in the wood really plays havoc on the fire and you can end up beating your brains out trying to get it to burn.
If you have access to a good amount of wooded land, go out there and look for standing dead trees. You will find that they are much drier and about ready to go, especially if they have no bark left.
Hang in there, many of us (including myself) have all gone through the same learning curve. It's painful, but after you have your wood properly seasoned, you will love it.
Be careful not to get caught in the trap of buying "seasoned" firewood. It very rarely is ever dry enough to burn, and in some cases is freshly cut wood dripping with moisture but at a higher price.
Dan
Welcome to the forum.
If your wood is not properly dried, you'll have exactly the problems you're seeing. If you cut and split all that wood this summer, then next winter it will be ready to go. The moisture in the wood really plays havoc on the fire and you can end up beating your brains out trying to get it to burn.
If you have access to a good amount of wooded land, go out there and look for standing dead trees. You will find that they are much drier and about ready to go, especially if they have no bark left.
Hang in there, many of us (including myself) have all gone through the same learning curve. It's painful, but after you have your wood properly seasoned, you will love it.
Be careful not to get caught in the trap of buying "seasoned" firewood. It very rarely is ever dry enough to burn, and in some cases is freshly cut wood dripping with moisture but at a higher price.
Dan
fredarm
Minister of Fire
You can try mixing in some compressed wood bricks (BioBricks, Envi Blocks, Wood Brick Fuel, Liberty Bricks, etc.).
Wood Duck
Minister of Fire
Don't worry about how much heat you get out of the stove this year, because this winter you need to cut, split, and stack at least two years' supply of wood. They say wood warms you twice, you know, and this winter you will enjoy the first warming, but it will happen outdoors. I think with a big stove you'll want at least 6 cords ready for next year. While you're cutting, stack the faster seasoning woods for next year, save oak and hickory for the year after that. Hopefully you'll enjoy the wood cutting as much as the rest of us do, so you won't really mind the effort.
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
big worm said:
I think you answered your own question when you say "I didn't have time to let the wood cure" . . . although technically most of us refer to the drying process as seasoning rather than curing.
Because the wood is still unseasoned (and too wet inside) you will find the fire hard to start and will need to keep the air control most of the way, if not all of the way open, to maintain the fire . . . and this has the unfortunate result of a) most of the heat going up the chimney, b) much of the heat you would have heating you and your home will be used to dry the wood in the firebox (this would be the hissing and sizzling sound you may hear and see as the moisture is driven out of the wood), c) there is a good chance your chimney will tend to have more creosote build up in it and will do at a faster rate and d) you will not get any where near the long burn times you would normally.
That's the bad news.
The good news: you are able to get the fire going and actually have a fire for several hours? That's good. With properly seasoned wood, next year at this time, I would guess that you will have no issues in keeping your 1,700 square foot home plenty warm and for a long time. That's more good news.
For this year your options are limited. You can save this wood for next year and be ahead of the game. If this is not an option you can try buying seasoned wood this year, but unless you know what to look for (or have a moisture meter) there is a pretty good chance you will not be buying well seasoned wood (as defined by wood cut and split 9 months to 12 months previously) . . . or will pay a hefty price for this wood. You can also try mixing in some dimensional lumber or pallet pieces with the semi-seasoned wood . . . this would have the effect of getting the firebox hot enough so that it would hopefully dry out the firewood and perhaps get the temps high enough for some secondary burning.
Whether you opt to keep this wood in reserve for next year . . . attempt to buy seasoned wood to burn this year . . . or try mixing in pallet/dimensional lumber and get by this year is only a decision you can make. If you do opt to use your own wood this year please be sure to frequently check and clean your chimney.
jcjohnston
Member
I heat 2250 with ease now that I got ahead on wood, thanks to the guys here and my son finding this forum last year. The difference in burn time and heat output my second year compared to last is just remarkable. Take last night for instance, 9.5 hours overnight burn with elm and I had room to go longer as I gave up space from not wanting to go back to the porch and find the perfect size piece to squeeze one more piece in the firebox. The right combination of piece size is now so on my mind that I have to make sure I always bring in the last load of wood for the night. Its an evolution, might sound silly, but it really is. Take every spare moment you can find to read things here and the stuff you will learn is amazing.
logger
Minister of Fire
ControlFreak said:
Not sure if I read this wrong or there was a typo, but if its cut this summer, it won't be in good enough shape for next winter. Give it at least a full year if you're expecting good burning results.
Split it now for next winter.
fredarm said:
No he can't. Artificially made logs are NOT TESTED in the Clydedale & should NOT be burned in it.
It is designed & tested for natural air-dried seasoned fire wood ONLY.
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