noob-hearth install in offset flue

[szmaine]

Hi from a long time lurker.

Taking advantage of the tax credit and purchasing the Jotul Oslo this month (was headed for the Castine but wanted a side load door) to be installed in our unused fireplace.
We have have a double flue chimney that we lined w/ SS flex liner. The flue is offset from the fire place box.
Can anyone advise me on what type of connectors I need to get the thing centered..I will need to reduce from 7in liner to 6in stove inlet but just can't figure out how to deal with the weird angle.
Also, I was wondering what people think of the framing under the hearth --looks sturdy enough to support 445lbs of stove??

(broken link removed to http://picasaweb.google.com/szmaine/022409?feat=directlink)

I'm not sure if the link will work -I just slapped the account together in 10min and have never done this before.

Thanks in advance.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

I cant speak to the support issue, but it looks strong to me. As far as getting over to the stove, i would use twe adjustable elbows with a length of pipe. The elbows adjust from 0* to 90*. You might make a custom steel shroud for the front of the fireplace to hide the weirdness if it looks funny once installed.

 

[DAKSY]

Why not just remove whatever you have in the damper area & center the flex liner?
Then you can insulate around the flex or install a block-off plate...

 

[BrotherBart]

Why not just remove whatever you have in the damper area & center the flex liner?
Then you can insulate around the flex or install a block-off plate...

What he said. Except that with a free standing stove definitely install the block-off plate to keep the heat from going up into the chimney instead of into the room.

 

[szmaine]

Thanks for the fast responses.

The problem with trying to center the flex liner more is that it is already bent as much as it seems to be able to get it where it is now - without putting a crinck in it.
The chimney is offset more than appears in the pics because I didn't bother to take the block off down - it actually comes down at least a foot to the left of where the liner comes in and sort of slopes in toward the fire box.

I thought we might do the weird connections higher up and come down straight after removal of the damper handle but then dawned on me that you'd have to take
out the block off plate every time to clean it.

I had also liked the idea of blocking the fireplace opening to hide any ugliness but am counting on being able to back the stove into the fireplace 6-7 " to reduce the need to extend the hearth too much as it might become a hazard to navigation - If you check out the living room picture you see only one half of the living room, the half behind the camera is a mirror image- basically the room is 18x30 with the fireplace sticking out in the middle, the stairs to the second fl are behind the fire place which is why it comes out so far.

Anyway I appreciate the ideas and any more people might have...

Other questions:
My husband made the block off plate out of leftover hardi-backer - is that a suitable material? (thats right I'm back seat driving here-details shmetails :roll:
We havent insulated the liner because it is an interior chimney. But I've read that's not just to improve draft and reduce condensation but also as a safety precaution
to prevent the bricks from transfering heat to the framing - should we try to get something down there? and what, Thermix type stuff?

Thanks!

 

[theheatelement]

http://www.sandhillwholesale.com/ad....html?osCsid=e6057ac7794602b811cd2579d5992719

 

[gpcollen1]

I have a hard time figuring out what the angle will be but an adjustable 45 should fix most issues. I have an offset flue and the 45 works great.

http://www.chimneylinerinc.com/elbows.htm

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

http://www.sandhillwholesale.com/adjustable-insert-boot-p-1098.html?osCsid=e6057ac7794602b811cd2579d5992719

this is an offset adapter, he will only need this if his fp hieght and lentel depth are off.
never use offset adapters like this if not needed, they clog, reduce draft, and must be disasembled each season( or more often depending on burn.)
(sorry Magnaflex if you make these, they can be a life saver!!)


as they said above, adjustible elbow and a 6x7 ss increaser with a piece of 6" flex or ridgid

 

[DAKSY]

I thought we might do the weird connections higher up and come down straight after removal of the damper handle but then dawned on me that you’d have to take
out the block off plate every time to clean it.

Huh? If you come down the middle & remount a block-off plate to either side, you'll probably NEVER hafta remove it.
All your cleaning/brushing will be done INSIDE the pipe...

 

[summit]

put an oval on the liner right before the damper and into the opening to facilitate moving, bending, etc.. i highly doubt you will have any issues at all with 8" of a slight crease on the pipe.