oil boiler chimney liner help

[cableman]

Does an oil boiler chimney connect like a wood stove chimney would, where the liner goes into its connection and each piece after that?
My setup had the liner going over a t and what i think is the clean out side facing down and it was open. From there each piece slid into the next making any condensation or what ever run on the outside.
Whats the correct way i should fix this all up?
Ive attached how it was hooked up and what i pulled out.

 

[velvetfoot]

I've broken down my oil system for cleaning for my first time. My Burnham boiler seems to have a female connection on the canopy where yours is male. My cleanout t also seems have a female connection like yours. Maybe an expert will chime in, but I wouldn't stress it. I think the tee should have a cap on it though.

On a side note, I noticed the nozzle isn't the one recommended in the manual, so I bought a pressure gauge to test that. I have a combustion tester that I've had for a while but never used, and I have the feeling the sensors are old and might need replacing. Even the old style Bacharach test set is 770 new, but at least it doesn't need sensors every once in a while. I'm hoping if I get the specified pressure, nozzle, and air settings right, I'll be close-maybe get a chimney smoke tester, but even that's a hundred bucks.

 

[cableman]

Stopped by sleepyhollow chimney supply today. Got an adaptor so liner goes into t, cap for the bottom, 2' double male section, 90, and another adaptor to make top vent on boiler a female. Almost the way i want it except the female on the horizontal part of the t but it'll do.
Also got a plate to go against cement wall, instead of filling with cement ill stuff roxel and cover with plate.

 

[cableman]

Didnt need the adaptor on the top of boiler, painted the vertical cause i hated the stains, the rest is 316ss! Came out alright except my mess from bleeding the zones again.

Hows this boilers firebox look? I cleaned it the best i could, should get a new combustion liner kit but im afraid it'll crash and burn after i replace it! Almost 19years old i believe.

 

[velvetfoot]

This is the first I've had mine apart. Is that upper left corner broken off were you hit it with a brush?
I have one coming in the mail. It was 108, taxed and shipped.
Mine didn't look as black. There were (non-through) cracks in the target area. The blanket on the floor didn't look great.
How is the insulation on the door? Mine seemed fine, but the kit apparently comes with that too.
The kit is by Lynn.

Are you just putting a nozzle of the same dimensions back in and changing the filters?

 

[cableman]

Yeah i broke that left corner last year when i 1st moved in and had no clue on cleaning it!
Door insulation looks fine, just had to replace rope gasket on it.
Im gonna call someone in to change the nozzel and check how its running, i could only guess that stuff.

 

[cableman]

My temp repair on the fire box piece i broke off, used some leftover flex liner insulation!

How these aquastats work again, if i set low on 120, dif on 10 it heats to 130? Then turns back on at 110?

 

[velvetfoot]

Can you actually set a cast iron oil boiler that low? I only use my oil boiler in the winter time, so I set it higher for heating.
I'm not sure what 'low' is, but you can always watch your temp gauge and figure it out. Maybe someone else will chime in.
I think they have refractory cement that you mix up that might have been more appropriate for the target wall repair, but again, I'm no expert.

 

[velvetfoot]

I have a Mity Vac that I was going to use to bleed the line after changing filters, and prime the oil pump. Realize that oil burner pump is used to get rid of air in line, but thought this would be better if it actually worked.

 

[cableman]

Buddy at work said they make something to fix that target wall, ill replace it come spring if this boiler works out after me having it off all summer.
My aquastat is a 3 setting one, high is set at 180 for when heat is called for, low is for the tankless coil setup which i removed keeping the boiler at that temp unless heats called for. Dif and low temp work together.

 

[velvetfoot]

The new combustion chamber by Lynn was very easy to install. It came with the target wall, floor blanket with 'water glass' (silicon carbonate(?) liquid) to glue it down, door insulation, and a nice high quality rope gasket with a sticky peel off adhesive to glue it down. Fit perfect.

My boiler can flow oil at .75 gph or 1.05 gph. I've asked several techs over the years to make sure it was firing at .75. Turns out it was set for 1.05 ! There was a .75 nozzle in it flowing at 180 psi! I put in a low firing rate baffle, a .60a 60 deg nozzle, lowered the psi to the recommended 140 and set the air and electrodes as specified.

Now I am at a point of seeing if the old, and I mean real old, electronic combustion analyzer will work (but how can I really tell, especially if the operational life of the sensor(s) are long gone. My local heating place has an old school Bacharach analog outfit (that never expires) for 700 bucks. Might take 5 years to recoup that investment, but I can trust my own readings. Or, could just let it run as is.

 

[cableman]

Good deal man! Ill order one next season.

I just wanna figure out how mine should be run after removing the tankless coil. Im so new to an oil boiler i cant understand it all. Too many ways to wire and run this stuff.

I have one circ, 2 zone valves and a triple aquastat. I dont wanna run this thing all the time at 140 for no reason. Id like to run it as a warm start boiler like 120 warm until thermastat calls for heat.
Im just too confused and cant get the answers i need!

 

[velvetfoot]

Sorry, I'm helpless about the triple aquastat. My boiler is a cold start cast iron unit with an indirect tank, originally. Now, there's a buffer tank, pellet boiler, etc.

 

[cableman]

Im schooling myself slowly but i need someone to tell me what to get and how it hooks up, then ill understand it better maybe...

 

[velvetfoot]

You could try posting on the boiler forum.

 

[velvetfoot]

To finish rounding up my little experience, I couldn't get the spin on oil filter off. All the band wrench did was bend and pierce the filter. I didn't want to do the screwdriver method-with my luck I'd twist something off and then be swimming in an unstoppable oil leak. So, I went down to Home Depot and got a Westwood filter with a removable paper filter cartridge. Installed it - again easy.

 

[cableman]

Is that one of those car style filters? Ive been thinking bout getting one of those.

 

[velvetfoot]

NO. The car filter type wouldn't come off! The one I got, by Westwood, has a removable cartridge. You unscrew a bolt on top, the holder drops and you change it out. There is a bleed screw on top as well.

 

[cableman]

Eventually ill add a spin on style maybe closer to the burner and leave the standard one by my tank. Ill have to research that one another time!

 

[velvetfoot]

Again, I would urge against the spin on filter, based on my experience, and go with a cartridge.

On another note, I checked my old IMR 1400 combustion analyzer last night and it looks like the o2 and co sensors are gone. The o2 sensor is like 189 and the co like 395! Plus soot pump came up with an error. I'm thinking I might fork over the dough for an old school Bacharach with unlimited shelf life (I believe). Maybe a five year payback?

 

[cableman]

My burner nozel is a 75 60w. Peerless lists gph as .60 .85 amd 1.10, nozels for those go from 50/60/85 the 1st only achievable with f3 reillo burner, i have the f5.
So looks like im setup to use more then .85 gph with d.o.e of more then 102000. Im sure this is over sized.

 

[velvetfoot]

It's generally oversized especially if you continue to use your insert a lot.

 

[cableman]

Just checking out cl the other day to see what boilers are out there, found this one which i would love to have but they dont return emails!
(broken link removed to http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/for/5778223106.html)