@stoveliker is wanting to know if you take a split from your pile and test it, or if you take a split from your pile, resplit that piece and let get to room temperature then test it. You’ll find a huge difference in moisture readouts. Just my inputUsed a digital moisture meter. Inexpensive, maybe not real accurate, but I read somewhere that the cheapies were accurate within 1%.
Not sure where I found this chart (maybe in this forum?) but does this look relatively accurate? Does anyone use these or similar correction factors?No, not split, let get to temp, and then measure.
Get a split, let it be in a room for a day, then resplit and measure. If you reverse the order, you'll measure a number far lower than it actually is.
This graph. Along with a concise description of moisture meter operation should be a sticky that every new member could be directed to right off the bat
The General Tools mmd4e has two modes. "Wood" and "building materials". I read that as firewood and lumber.most of the wood moisture meters are calibrated for furniture type wood. some of the better ones have mutiple ranges but are still under apx $60.
Good point about bringing in some wood to further dry before putting in the stove. I'm thinking of buying / building a small rack or 2 to do that. 1 would be near the insert, the other close to that. It's a lot dryer there than in my garage, where my winter wood is. For oak, maple, ash, cherry....how long do you folks recommend? I know the longer the better but only have so much room.To answer the question, yes, It probably will be ok. I did a test on this a couple weeks ago with fresh doug fir that measured 22% mc. Doug fir has high oil/resin content that will help it burn. Mixing it with known dry wood also helps. If you note that water and foam are bubbling out the ends then the wood has more than 22% moisture. If you can bring a box or two of the wood into the house for a week it will shed quite a bit of moisture, especially if the splits are under 6" wide.
I think it’s more like firewood+lumber (both are wood, just finished or not) vs. drywall or plaster. The manual isn’t specific, but has sentences like “To locate the source of a leak behind wood, plaster, drywall or a ceiling, make measurements at different locations.”The General Tools mmd4e has two modes. "Wood" and "building materials". I read that as firewood and lumber.