I picked up an old and heavy boxwood(bigger than newer ones)only markings are made in west Germany on the back, cast iron, 2 -;6" removable cook tops, no frills. I read some coal could be burned by shaker grate, plenty of clearance , heat shielded 2+',6" going through existing chimney + 2-3'Do I need to cover the rest of my chimney? Also hole in chimney was for 8",I'm using 6" any cheaper ideas?
Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves
- Thread starter Shanepr73
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Yes, this chimney hasn't been used since 1954,I cleaned it and concreted any cracks, the previous hole in the chimney was 8" and I'm using 6" all the way past the top. Do I need a thimble or can I concrete around the 6"
ipe going in. Also I've heard , well no good reviews for cheap Chinese made boxwood stoves, this one is old and West German. In you guys opinion is this a better stove than the vogelzang ones currently made? And have you ever seen a floating chimney like this?
![[Hearth.com] Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/317/317111-ddbf5c540574c6e8e10a068b9d55c9f9.jpg?hash=yZBAHp2EvX "[Hearth.com] Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves")
ipe going in. Also I've heard , well no good reviews for cheap Chinese made boxwood stoves, this one is old and West German. In you guys opinion is this a better stove than the vogelzang ones currently made? And have you ever seen a floating chimney like this?This chimney is in an old house built by the coal company in 1940.It had a coal furnace oil furnace in the basement on a different chimney. I guess this is a "floating" chimney. I will be reinforcing underneath. It was apparently connected with 8"ipe before but I'm using 6". Do I need a thimble or can I just concrete around 6" pipe? I have an old made in West Germany, boxwood cast iron stove. Is this a better stove than the one getting terrible reviews? Mine is old and heavy.
ipe before but I'm using 6". Do I need a thimble or can I just concrete around 6" pipe? I have an old made in West Germany, boxwood cast iron stove. Is this a better stove than the one getting terrible reviews? Mine is old and heavy.![[Hearth.com] Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/317/317115-df1f61bb44d12a398a006cf3a025f27e.jpg?hash=j2owqTQv5i "[Hearth.com] Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves")
This is an old coal camp house, I'm going to use 6" black stovepipe all the way out. My chimney was for a 8" pipe, can I concrete around the 6" to make a good seal?
You can't use stovepipe all the way out, needs to be a liner. Stovepipe is for inside
Huh?I live in rural Appalachia and pretty much everyone has a couple feet of black stovepipe coming out of their chimney, some have it coming out of windows and use double wall by the eve of the house. What good would a chimney liner do in my case? I understand it would be safer but since when can't black stove pipe he ran out of an existing chimney? Someone please help me understand this.
A stainless liner won't rust out and need replaced every year or 2. Also the liner needs to be insulated because clearly the chimney doesn't have the required clearances
Ok, I'm disabled and on a budget, I do the work myself but can't afford S.S., wish I could. Is there a cheaper option? I know not to be cheap when it comes to a house fire situation, unfortunately I just don't have and can't get more $ to do it best. Unless a compassionate person wants to fund me, but I'm pretty sure there aren't people like that anymore. So I'm using 6" black pipe and thick steel 90's.Can I use 6" and cement around it or must I use a thimble? Also any ideas about how to better shield the framing 2x4's that run vertical beside the chimney?
The thing is after a few years of replacing the black pipe you could have just bought a liner. I can't give you any advice on how to do it wrong I am sorry
If my chimney top is covered, it seems to me that it would take around 5 yrs. before I have to replace it. Ty for not telling me any wrong answers, only the costliest without a cheaper alternative. Plus your probably hoarding a chit ton of 6" stainless steel pipe. Ty
So you come on here asking for advice, you are given good advice of the proper way to do it, then promptly insult the person giving you the advice. Classy. If you want to burn your house down you are on your own, we aren't going to help you. You think a chimney that has a lifespan of 5 years is going to be safe?
It may seem that to you. But it's not the case. I am simply telling you the proper way to do it. I have nothing to gain or loose in this at all.
That is incorrect. Note that personal attacks are not permitted here, especially on someone that is trying to help with a safe installation. If this was a car, would someone trying to fix the brakes with leather brake pads be acceptable? Of course not.
No personal attack was meant, I apologize. I'm just living on 1k a monthband don't mind replacing black pipe in a few years, if I'm running pipe 10+ feet up and out of a covered chimney I do not understand why I need a liner in the chimney. Please explain.
I am assuming the chimney was most likely used for coal previously. Because of that there will be coal ash deposits there that are extremely corrosive I wouldn't expect stove pipe to last through the summer. Then you have the corrosive nature of wood exhaust added to that.
It comes down to safety. Singlewall stove pipe will not protect you or your house as well as an insulated liner.
If you had a chimney fire inside, or outside your chimney, you would be taking a much bigger financial hit than if you just did it right the first time.
If you had a chimney fire inside, or outside your chimney, you would be taking a much bigger financial hit than if you just did it right the first time.
Are you saying the coal deposits on the chimney walls will corrode 24gauge black pipe thats not in direct contact with chimney walls?
I did not know that, aside from a liner is there a way I can afford to fix this issue?
![[Hearth.com] Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/317/317129-1506117604ccb8e8554ff19e4e12f38e.jpg?hash=_NZ8ECQ-Qq "[Hearth.com] Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves")
![[Hearth.com] Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/317/317130-b27454c45848c0e0d885df93ae71881a.jpg?hash=1tpslgCu1r "[Hearth.com] Old West German cast iron boxwood stoves")
Have you looked into pellet stoves? You can forget the expense of the chimney and vent out the wall.
Similar threads
