Old woodstove in yurt wall

[Aggiemanderson]

I have what I believe is a Fisher baby bear. 24x18x24 that I'm installing through the wall of my yurt. Is there a adaptor for the flue collar to fit this 6" pipe? How does one determine the btu on this stove and how do I find the clearance neccesary from the stove to the wall? I'm grateful for any help here.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

View attachment 342565I have what I believe is a Fisher baby bear. 24x18x24 that I'm installing through the wall of my yurt. Is there a adaptor for the flue collar to fit this 6" pipe? How does one determine the btu on this stove and how do I find the clearance neccesary from the stove to the wall? I'm grateful for any help here

Is there a data plate or decal on it anywhere?

 

[EbS-P]

I think unlisted they are 36”. It can be cut in half with appropriate heat shield with air gap behind. Be careful! Ask questions. Like what kind of pass through should I use? Or is single wall ok? Is double wall recommended? How high should the stack be?

 

[bholler]

View attachment 342565I have what I believe is a Fisher baby bear. 24x18x24 that I'm installing through the wall of my yurt. Is there a adaptor for the flue collar to fit this 6" pipe? How does one determine the btu on this stove and how do I find the clearance neccesary from the stove to the wall? I'm grateful for any help here

That is not a fisher and it takes 7" pipe not 6"

 

[begreen]

Please post a full picture of the stove so that we can identify it. Is there a UL plate on the back specifying clearances? If not, if will need 36" clearance from all combustibles in all directions. Shielding the yurt wall properly with a ventilated wall shield will reduce the rear clearance to 12".

 

[Aggiemanderson]

Is there a data plate or decal on it anywhere?

 

[Aggiemanderson]

this pic didn't upload. This is the front of the stove

 

[Aggiemanderson]

Please post a full picture of the stove so that we can identify it. Is there a UL plate on the back specifying clearances? If not, if will need 36" clearance from all combustibles in all directions. Shielding the yurt wall properly with a ventilated wall shield will reduce the rear clearance to 12".

I did post a pic but it didn't upload. I'm just waiting for a moderator to approve that pic. It has a loon relief on the front.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

Thanks! Looks like a Century FW250XXX but just below that is 030. So the model number is FW250030

The clearances to follow are shown on that decal. Only thing I can't read is the date of manufacture, lower right corner.

Link to parts and manual

Manual: Century FW250030 Manual

Parts: FW250030 parts

 

[Aggiemanderson]

Please post a full picture of the stove so that we can identify it. Is there a UL plate on the back specifying clearances? If not, if will need 36" clearance from all combustibles in all directions. Shielding the yurt wall properly with a ventilated wall shield will reduce the rear clearance to 12".

Thanks, I found the sticker and the suggested clearance is 14". Apparently I have to get a reducer for the 6" pipe but I'm not sure if I need to drill a hole through the collar on the stove to secure the reducer.

Thanks! Looks like a Century FW250XXX but just below that is 030. So the model number is FW250030

The clearances to follow are shown on that decal. Only thing I can't read is the date of manufacture, lower right corner.

Link to parts and manual

Manual: Century FW250030 Manual

Parts: FW250030 parts

Wow This is amazing. Thanks so much. It even has the brick pattern. I paid $200 for this. I think I got hosed. The seal around the door was rotten. The bricks are completely burnt out. Even the brackets o. The sides to hold them are corroded. The slider bar barely moves and the spring handle is bent. I'm new to country life and woodstoves. Citified rookie mistake

 

[begreen]

The slider can be lubricated with graphite powder. Pick up some at the hardware store. Sprinkle it liberally between the door and the slider while working the control back and forth until it loosens up. Put some graphite powder on the hinge pins too.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

Thanks, I found the sticker and the suggested clearance is 14". Apparently I have to get a reducer for the 6" pipe but I'm not sure if I need to drill a hole through the collar on the stove to secure the reducer.

Wow This is amazing. Thanks so much. It even has the brick pattern. I paid $200 for this. I think I got hosed. The seal around the door was rotten. The bricks are completely burnt out. Even the brackets o. The sides to hold them are corroded. The slider bar barely moves and the spring handle is bent. I'm new to country life and woodstoves. Citified rookie mistake

The door gasket isn't a big deal to replace. The fire bricks are two different sizes and easy to replace. If the fire bricks aren't broken, they should be fine? It's ok if they're discolored. That's just creosote from the wood. Speaking of which, you need to find some really dry/ seasoned firewood.

I can't really tell anything about the fire bricks from the picture.

You can gingerly use some steel wool and clean up the rust on the stove and they sell high heat stove paint in black and other colors. Just want to do some small burns in the stove to cure the paint if you decide to paint it.

Is the yurt going to be a rental place or similar?

Oh and I think you did good for $200- It really just needs to be freshened up a bit. Stoves like that around here go for $500-to $800

 

[begreen]

I dunno, I wouldn't have paid $200 for it. This is a really early Century.
Is there a baffle in it or can you see daylight looking inside up through the flue outlet?

 

[Aggiemanderson]

The door gasket isn't a big deal to replace. The fire bricks are two different sizes and easy to replace. If the fire bricks aren't broken, they should be fine? It's ok if they're discolored. That's just creosote from the wood. Speaking of which, you need to find some really dry/ seasoned firewood.

I can't really tell anything about the fire bricks from the picture.

You can gingerly use some steel wool and clean up the rust on the stove and they sell high heat stove paint in black and other colors. Just want to do some small burns in the stove to cure the paint if you decide to paint it.

Is the yurt going to be a rental place or similar?

Oh and I think you did good for $200- It really just needs to be freshened up a bit. Stoves like that around here go for $500-to $800

Thanks so much for your encouragement. It helped me a lot.
This is the before and after of rhe bricks after I chiseled away at the inside. One of the bottom ones was broken and the ones on the side had completely disintegrated. I think I'll just buy new ones.

 

[Aggiemanderson]

Previously I had asked about the 6"pipe that goes into the flue collar. Mine seemed too small but in fact, I hadn't 'expanded' it into the groove on the side of the pipe itself. Rookie mistake.
Now it fits pretty snug male side (ribbed) down. Do I need to secure it some other way as well or does it just sit in there on the baffle?
Also, I bought a supervent chimney cap from home depot but it doesn't come with a spark arrestor. Why? Is there a work around here other than spending $80-$120 on a spark arrestor? Tia. You've been a great help as have others in this forum. What a great group of people. I wish I could meet you in person 😃

 

[begreen]

The stove pipe should not pass through the flue collar. If it's able to hit the baffle, it's far too loose. This will require an adapter. A 7" to 6" reducer may work. What is the exact outside and inside diameter of the flue collar to the nearest 1/16th of an inch?

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

Also, I bought a supervent chimney cap from home depot but it doesn't come with a spark arrestor. Why? Is there a work around here other than spending $80-$120 on a spark arrestor? Tia. You've been a great help as have others in this forum.

Hardware cloth you can cut it with snips or angle grinder, whatever you have. Spark Arrestors aren't required everywhere, but you can buy a cap with an arrestor.

The only issue is that they can clog with creosote, so if you go that route, keep an eye on it.

I had a problem with birds trying to nest in my chimney so I had to wrap it in hardware cloth and it's just like an arrestor.

 

[begreen]

Hardware cloth you can cut it with snips or angle grinder, whatever you have. Spark Arrestors aren't required everywhere, but you can buy a cap with an arrestor.

Don't go smaller than 1/2" mesh for the hardware cloth.

 

[stoveliker]

And do put a spark arrestor on, even if it's not required. Having a yurt flammable roof should make you want one before you sleep there...

 

[Aggiemanderson]

I dunno, I wouldn't have paid $200 for it. This is a really early Century.
Is there a baffle in it or can you see daylight looking inside up through the flue outlet?

Bear in mind, that's $200 cad which is about $12 to you guys 😃. There is a baffle. I posted a pic below

 

[Aggiemanderson]

And do put a spark arrestor on, even if it's not required. Having a yurt flammable roof should make you want one before you sleep there...

Absolutely

 

[Aggiemanderson]

The door gasket isn't a big deal to replace. The fire bricks are two different sizes and easy to replace. If the fire bricks aren't broken, they should be fine? It's ok if they're discolored. That's just creosote from the wood. Speaking of which, you need to find some really dry/ seasoned firewood.

I can't really tell anything about the fire bricks from the picture.

You can gingerly use some steel wool and clean up the rust on the stove and they sell high heat stove paint in black and other colors. Just want to do some small burns in the stove to cure the paint if you decide to paint it.

Is the yurt going to be a rental place or similar?

Oh and I think you did good for $200- It really just needs to be freshened up a bit. Stoves like that around here go for $500-to $800

The yurt is mostly for guests, kids to play in and occasional gatherings. I hope this stove is sufficient. I've got a gasket kit and managed to get the old bricks out yesterday.

 

[Aggiemanderson]

Can I run the T on the outside of the posts I installed to support my chimney outside of my yurt wall? I had someone dig them for me and unfortunately they're too close to the wall of the yurt to fit the braket in and a bit too close together to slide the T in between.
My thought is to spread them a bit to fit the T between them and put the bracket on the outside of the posts instead of on the side closest to the yurt

 

[Aggiemanderson]

This site will only sporadically allow me to post pics so I can show you what I mean

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

This site will only sporadically allow me to post pics so I can show you what I mean

ok, Yes some pics would be great as I'm not following, but someone else might be?