Older Insert With Own Damper 1980 Gold Marc

[hardwood715]

I have been reading posts here, and respect all the knowlegeable folks and thier answers! I have a 1980 Gold Marc Insert which is in excellent condition, my father in law hardly used it at all during the last 25 years. My question is that I see they recommend using a liner inside the existing chimney to vent this at least to the first clay tile. This stove however, has its own damper which opens on the back top and measures 30 inches long across the whole back of the stove and approx 4 inches wide. My chimney is in good shape with a 8 x 13 flue terra cotta liner. I had it swept and pulled the stove out and cleaned out the smoke chamber shelf and firebox . How would i even adapt this to a pipe to run up thru where the old damper was(removed) to the clay liner? It seems most inserts have some type of oval outlet , or flue adapter etc. again this has its own damper that opens and closes across the whole back top of the stove above the baffle plate
Thanks for any responses, Steve

 

[elkimmeg]

I glad you are reading the post. Just sliding that insert back in and hoping no carbon monoxides excape back to your living space is foolish thinking. But you are on the right track. From your description 4 by 30 thats 120" outlet In your case I think you will need the help of a sheet metal fabricator. Make up the conversion from 4"/30 to 7/ 12 as you need all the area possible in your exixting line and still will fall short. There won't be much left to plate off in the damper area. If you get a fabricator require 22 ga steel not galvanizes

 

[hardwood715]

As far as the living space, it does seal pretty darn good with the surround and paper free insulation backing all around the plate against the fireplace brick, no co detector set off or smoke alarm, I burn hot at least once during a fire, and make sure that i dont smolder to keep long burn times. it fits rather snug in the firebox with out lot of extra space also, im just getting used to the 4 vent controls on front 2 on each door knob style and have yanked it out twice in 2 weeks of burning to see just how much creosote deposits in the chamber above, not a lot, a slight film which brushes down good with a steel wired brush. Just wondering if i need to pull it out often during heating season, tin knocker may help with making a connector adapter? Sounds like a good solution!

 

[hardwood715]

Well, I pulled her out again, and rechecked my measurements, the damper/ or flue outlet from stove is actually 29"X3", which is opened and closed with a pull handle from front of stove. there really isn't much of a lip on damper to attach adapter. The damper in chimney (which has been removed) opening is almost identical to that on stove. the inside measurements of chimney flue looks to be 7x12 almost same square inches at 84 vs 87 from outlet of stove. Again checked for creosote buildup after 4 days not anything noticeable. Is this maybe OK to run as is??? If I could adapt something to meet the clay tile it would almost leave 0 room, plus how would I operate a damper? Thanks again for any help. I think the major concerns about Inserts were with the creosote and larger flues, Not really sure, Steve

 

[webbie]

I have been reading posts here, and respect all the knowlegeable folks and thier answers! I have a 1980 Gold Marc Insert which is in excellent condition, my father in law hardly used it at all during the last 25 years. My question is that I see they recommend using a liner inside the existing chimney to vent this at least to the first clay tile. This stove however, has its own damper which opens on the back top and measures 30 inches long across the whole back of the stove and approx 4 inches wide.

Wow, I used to sell those inserts and stoves!
They were fairly decent in their time....

If it were mine, I'd come up with some sort of a compromise. Since the stove was not designed for direct connection or lining, this will be very difficult, BUT a nice rectangle sleeve which extends up to about the damper area, and through a sheet metal plate located about 2" above the fireplace opening would provide a LOT of help as far as operation and performance.

As far as the damper, I see no harm in leaving a little slot in the sheet metal for the damper rod to come through. Any small holes like this will suck in, not let smoke out.

Above all, try to burn correctly, with less wood and more air when possible - a nice flame on the fire. Overnight burns are going to create a LOT of creosote and perhaps cost you in the long run (chimney fires, cracked tiles, unhappy neighbors due to smell, etc.)...

 

[hardwood715]

Thanks for the input Craig, yes this stove seems very decent and looks almost brand new, no visible rust, corrosion etc. As you stated a little notch for the damper rod would be ok, but the damper slides back, or towards the front of stove when the handle is pulled to open it slides back on top of stove, would that interfere with the sleeve I adapt? Your right its a toughie, also thanks for the tips on the fire and creosote, I dont think I want to try an overnighter, unless I go to bed with just hot coals in there! My wife thinks I'm a little too anxious about it, but I consider safety a major # 1 issue- as to why i've pulled it out so many times. Again it sure is a classic , I think it was used in 1980 and 81, then POP got ill and never used her again, till I pulled it out cleaned it up and put it back in service, I like the 12 plus inches it extends out from the fireplace with the fan it heats good, I bought a stove stat to turn the fan on and off at temps so I dont wake up with a cold fan running, So that helps thanks again for input and advice, Steve

 

[elkimmeg]

As Craig mentioned a direct connects will help with the stove performance.
My major concern is back drafting since there is no vent connected.
A vent to part way up the first flue and damper area plate calked and sealed
would be the best possible safer setup for your stove. It would really scare me
that the only seal was some strips and the suround trim. Bricks are a relitively
flat surface but not completely your sealing strips are old already compressed and
not nearly as good as when first installed.. Todays code would never allow that setup,
the trim suround seal

 

[hardwood715]

Yes, I also share your concerned of this, hence I will start a project to make an adapter, also maybe change the seal somehow, the pink thick insulation was a suggestion, along with caulking. I want to do at least like you said put her venting to the flue tiles themselves that'll at least push her up a good distance. Thank You also for your wisdom and reply, Steve