Opinions and suggestions for my proposed setup

[sevndaythry]

New to the forums, found this place looking for info on safe installations of a wood burning stove.

Because of a flood I have found myself having to replace an old firebox insert, I didn't like what was there and discovered that putting a stove in wont be that much more expensive. So I decided to go with a wood burning stove.

the firebox was originally in the corner of my living room on a 45 degree wall. I plan on removing this wall and putting the stove in the corner. Correct me if I'm wrong, but my research has told me that using metal heat sheilds I can reduce the clearances from the factory by 60%. Below are my plans and a visual representation of the planned install, along with the factory placement specs of my chosen stove, A United States Stove Company APS1100B.


I would love to hear what all the experience here can tell me about my plan. None of the componnents have been purchased so all suggestions, comments and critiques are encouraged.

Thanks in advance.

Poposed Plan: (broken image removed)
Stove Clearances: (broken image removed)

 

[fossil]

In order to use wall shields to reduce minimum CTC's, you'll need to find in the manufacture's installation instructions a note that explicitly says this is permissible. If, in fact, it is permissible, and you could figure out a way to construct what you're wanting by leaving a 1" air gap between the stone and the combustible wall, you wouldn't need the stainless shields. Other stove choices may offer closer clearances...before you lock in that particular stove, you might do some more research looking for close-tolerance stoves for the same location. Rick

 

[sevndaythry]

Thanks for the reply fossil. I have found some other stoves that had closer clearances, but the price point was a little bit higher than I was looking to spend. I had thought about spacing the stone away from the combustible wall, but that task seemed much more difficult to accomplish than creating the heat shields since I am a metal fabricator by trade. Do the heat shields not acomplish the same effect of spacing the stone off the wall. does spacing the stone off the wall turn it into a non combustible surface?

 

[fossil]

Properly installing any non-combustible material between the stove and the combustible wall with a 1" air gap accomplishes the same purpose so far as clearance reduction goes, so yes, with the stone applied directly to the wall, the stainless shields with an air gap would suffice. Spacing the stone off the wall is obviously a different challenge, but it can be done in a couple of different ways. In any case, in order to reduce the clearances by any method of shielding, you've got to make sure the manufacturer of the appliance says it permissible. Rick

 

[begreen]

From the APS-1100b manual:
Check figures below. You should have at least the clearances shown from the heater and the connector pipe to combustible surfaces. If you have a solid brick or stone wall behind your heater, you can place the heater as close as you wish to the wall. If the wall is only faced with brick or stone, treat it as a combustible wall.

This statement needs a little clarification. If the wall behind the stove is framed with metal studs, then a cement backer board is attached and the stone or brick veneer is applied, the measurement is to the nearest combustible is to the combustibles behind the metal studs. So if the total non-combustible wall thickness is say 5" and the stove's rear clearance to combustibles is 13", the stove can be placed 8" from the finished wall.

 

[sjswood]

From the APS-1100b manual:
Check figures below. You should have at least the clearances shown from the heater and the connector pipe to combustible surfaces. If you have a solid brick or stone wall behind your heater, you can place the heater as close as you wish to the wall. If the wall is only faced with brick or stone, treat it as a combustible wall.

This statement needs a little clarification. If the wall behind the stove is framed with metal studs, then a cement backer board is attached and the stone or brick veneer is applied, the measurement is to the nearest combustible is to the combustibles behind the metal studs. So if the total non-combustible wall thickness is say 5" and the stove's rear clearance to combustibles is 13", the stove can be placed 8" from the finished wall.

So, if I have an ordinary wood stud wall, faced by 3" stone veneer, and my stove clearance to combustibles is 13" then I can place my stove 10" from the stone, i.e. 13" from the wood studs?

 

[begreen]

That is correct as long as the stud wall is the nearest combustible.

 

[sjswood]

That is correct as long as the stud wall is the nearest combustible.

Perfect; thanks!

 

[bholler]

I see you say triple wall duravent chimney you do mean insulated class a chimney correct? I dont think duravent even makes triple wall but definitely use class a not triple wall.

 

[begreen]

DuraVent has made a lower priced, UL 103HT, triple-wall for years. It is the DuraPlus line.
(broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=2)

 

[bholler]

Ok then dont use that spend the little extra and get the better stuff that is insulated. I just read through the specs and it is still insulated so it would not be near as bad as many triple walls but i would still recommend a regular class a chimney

 

[begreen]

DuraPlus is insulated and a regular classA. It is a value line product that will do the job, just with the added bulk of increased diameter.

 

[bholler]

Ok i couldnt find the specs but i just assumed the the insulation layer was thinner and that is why they did the air space. If it is insulated the same as class a why use the airspace? It just seems like it would add cost for no reason