Options in replacing prefab fireplace (in a doghouse)

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polarbare

New Member
Nov 24, 2013
6
Dallas, Texas
New member here - been researching feverishly over the past 6 months about replacing my prefab fireplace with something that can actually produce heat. Thought I was all squared away, but when I went to the the local supplier/installer regarding an RSF Opel 2 (maybe a 3 with gravity vents), he immediately said I would have to tear down the doghouse and chase and have them rebuilt. This is without looking at the pictures or measurements I took. So here I am asking about whether this is true or not...

Ideally, I would like to do an alcove type install with a wood burning stove (it could stick into the room a little bit, but not a whole lot :(), but I didn't think I would have the clearances necessary without doing the complete tearout and rebuild of the doghouse/chase. If it's possible without tearing everything out, please let me know :) Below are some pics with measurements. FYI, there is a gas line for starting fires - I presume this can be capped off far enough away that it wouldn't be a problem. Also, I'm pretty sure the entire inside brickwork and mantle (and maybe the wall above the mantle) does have to be torn out, so that is not a concern.

[Hearth.com] Options in replacing prefab fireplace (in a doghouse)

[Hearth.com] Options in replacing prefab fireplace (in a doghouse) [Hearth.com] Options in replacing prefab fireplace (in a doghouse) [Hearth.com] Options in replacing prefab fireplace (in a doghouse)
 
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Have you considered just putting in a nice zero clearance approved insert with a stainless liner? This could be done in a day. The cost difference would be huge.
 
I looked into it, but was really wanting something that could provide a decent amount of heat, especially if the power goes out, so I haven't really researched them. Taking a quick look, the Lopi 1750i looks interesting tho.
 
If you get an insert that projects into the room it will heat by natural convection. The more it sits in the room the better. There are some good units by Lopi, Pacific Energy, Kuma, Enviro, Country, etc. that will convect well without the blower going.

Another option would be to lower the hearth and put a rear-vented, free-standing stove in front of the fireplace. That would definitely work well during power outages.
 
If you get an insert that projects into the room it will heat by natural convection. The more it sits in the room the better. There are some good units by Lopi, Pacific Energy, Kuma, Enviro, Country, etc. that will convect well without the blower going.

Another option would be to lower the hearth and put a rear-vented, free-standing stove in front of the fireplace. That would definitely work well during power outages.

Was definitely a thought, but not sure if I have enough space to sacrifice in front of the fireplace opening - the room has all the a/v stuff in it, and the layout is pretty fixed. The old papa san chair will be moved (disposed of :) ), but I still only have 5 ft of usable space from the front of the fireplace (this would include the 16" recommended pad in front of the stove). I have no problems with having the interior brick /wall redone. I presume the stove would vent throught the existing chase (assuming I can can an appropriate chimney/liney stuffed in there). Now I'm trying to find a local installer (I don't really trust the guys I originally went to anymore).
 
For qualified installers check: (broken link removed to http://nficertified.org/pages_consumers/consumers-1.cfm) and maybe www.csia.org or www.ncsg.org. Type in your zipcode and you should get a list of candidates.
 
For qualified installers check: (broken link removed to http://nficertified.org/pages_consumers/consumers-1.cfm) and maybe www.csia.org or www.ncsg.org. Type in your zipcode and you should get a list of candidates.

Thanks - I talked to one of the installers for an extended period of time (edit) - he recommended a Pacific energy FP30 after seeing the pics. He siad that if I reallly wanted to do a free standing stove (thinking alderlea T5), I would have to use a T in the back, and have a door placed in the doghouse for chimney access (sweeping). Not sure what the cost would be on that... He didn't mention the possibility of using 45 degree elbows like I have seen on some of the installs here.
 
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Did you discuss putting in a PE insert like the Super or Summit with a liner?

How large an area is the fireplace in and is this open to the rest of the house?
 
I had a fireplace in my last house that was similar to yours. When I bought the house there was an Avalon Rainier insert in it. It didn't heat that well until I bought the blower fan then it cranked. It was our sole source of heat for 10 years.

I would geta zero-clearnce inserted liner. You won't have to alter the existing chimney.
 
Did you discuss putting in a PE insert like the Super or Summit with a liner?

How large an area is the fireplace in and is this open to the rest of the house?

The living room is 17 by 27 ft with 10 ft ceiling, but freely communicates with the kitchen/nook area, which is another 28 feet (total about 17 wide and 55 feet long), plus another 19 by 12 ft room adjacent to the nook area (far away from the fireplace), that communicates via a hallway running parallel to the kitchen. Floorplan is below...what is labeled as living, kitchen, nook, and dining all have the same height ceiling without obstructions. the bedrooms and study have actual doorways

[Hearth.com] Options in replacing prefab fireplace (in a doghouse)

The installer wasn't too keen on inserts - he stated without knowing what kind of prefab I had, he didn't know if inserts were an option (from what I've read, this is kinda true - please correct me if I'm wrong).

Is it true (with respect to a free standing stove) that I would have to put in a T for the chimney sweep and have an access panel from the outside? I haven't see a lot of discussion about that here, but it may be one of those things I haven't stumbled upon as it's a given when talking about stoves.

Thanks for all the help guys - I only want to have to do this once, and have it done right :)
 
Me I would go with the free-standing if the requirements are all there... You already have a nice hearth with platform. There will need to be a T for the chimney, but I don't think you will have to have an access in the rear. But you will have to disconnect the stove and move it aside when it comes time to sweep. But that heart is large and depending on the free standing stove you get they "may" be room to even work on the back end from the side without having to move it significantly.

Regardless if you can find a free standing stove that will go in your already existing hearth I would do that.
 
Me I would go with the free-standing if the requirements are all there... You already have a nice hearth with platform. There will need to be a T for the chimney, but I don't think you will have to have an access in the rear. But you will have to disconnect the stove and move it aside when it comes time to sweep. But that heart is large and depending on the free standing stove you get they "may" be room to even work on the back end from the side without having to move it significantly.

Regardless if you can find a free standing stove that will go in your already existing hearth I would do that.

I don't think the hearth is stove compatible from a combustible standpoint :( Thinking no matter which way I go, a lot of stuff is coming out with subsequent rework.
 
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