Order of layers and wood trim around a hearth?

[emt1581]

I'm making my own hearth for my wood stove. The R-Value has been taken care of with a sheet of Micore. But I'm guessing for strength/durability I should use a sheet of plywood and a sheet of cement board along with the tile/grout.

I figure the correct order would be plywood, micore, cement board, grout, tile. Does that sound right?

I was told I can use any tile and grout I want so we found one that works at Lowes. Only problem is that I'm trying to get away without using a tile/wet saw and the tiles are 12"x12" and the micore (and other sheets) are 4'x8'. So I'm thinking I can have the tile extend a little over the edges and then maybe put the wood trim under and around for support.

I'm curious what wood yall use for the trim?

I thought it was baseboard or maybe chair rail but it doesn't look like any that Lowes/HD offers from the pics I've seen here.

Please share your thoughts. Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[cmonSTART]

If the hearth is going to be permanent, I personally would skip the plywood and just screw the whole works to the floor. The order you stated sounds right though. Have fun with the project.

As for the trim, use whatever tickles you. The last one I built I made some pine molding in my wood shop which complimented the customer's furniture. As long as it's beyond the minimums it doesn't matter.

 

[emt1581]

If the hearth is going to be permanent, I personally would skip the plywood and just screw the whole works to the floor. The order you stated sounds right though. Have fun with the project.

As for the trim, use whatever tickles you. The last one I built I made some pine molding in my wood shop which complimented the customer's furniture. As long as it's beyond the minimums it doesn't matter.

It is NOT going to be permanent. We only plan to use it for a few years. I'm thinking the micore will be softer on the newly refinnished hardwood...so can I leave out the plywood anyways and just use micore as the base layer?

We're thinking of going mosaic with broken tile around the border. I think this will look nicer plus it'll help us avoid using a saw.

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[begreen]

Use the plywood. The cement board needs to be securely screwed down, through the micore. I think the recommendation is something like a screw every 8"? The cement board and micore should extend under the tile. Expect to cut the cement board, micore and plywood, even if you don't intend to cut the tiles. The overall width will be determined by the exact tile width and the grout spacing between the tiles.

 

[cmonSTART]

If it's temporary use the plywood.

 

[emt1581]

Use the plywood. The cement board needs to be securely screwed down, through the micore. I think the recommendation is something like a screw every 8"? The cement board and micore should extend under the tile. Expect to cut the cement board, micore and plywood, even if you don't intend to cut the tiles. The overall width will be determined by the exact tile width and the grout spacing between the tiles.

Oh ok. Yeah, I might need some help figuring out the exact (Minimum) dimensions the hearth needs to be for my Encore 2 in 1, but we are looking to maybe do mosaic broken tile in lieu of cutting tile to allow for the grout spacing.

Now you said every 8"...is that radius-wise? In other words, there needs to be a grid of 2" screws on the entire surface of the cement board, micore, and plywood...rather than just around the edges and a few in the middle...right?

Again, the wood trim is what I still haven't figured out how to make it work or what to buy.

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[begreen]

Use the special screws made for this purpose. I would use 1 3/4" for 1/2" durock, 8" OC both directions. 2" will poke through the plywood in some places.

Follow the directions for the product as supplied by the manufacturer for best results:
(broken link removed to http://www.lwsupply.com/productspecs/USG_Manuals_Guides/Durock_Cement_Board_Installation_Guide.pdf)

 

[emt1581]

Use the special screws made for this purpose. I would use 1 3/4" for 1/2" durock, 8" OC both directions. 2" will poke through the plywood in some places.

Follow the directions for the product as supplied by the manufacturer for best results:
(broken link removed to http://www.lwsupply.com/productspecs/USG_Manuals_Guides/Durock_Cement_Board_Installation_Guide.pdf)

OC?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[rdust]

OC?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

On center would be my guess?? I'm not good at this game so who knows! :lol:

 

[emt1581]

Oh ok, thanks, yeah I took a look at the link. It basically gives you the screw info as well as a crash course on tiling which is good for me.

I'm having a little trouble figuring out the dimensions for my hearth. The measurements are on pgs 12-17 here...

(broken link removed)

Now mine is going in the MIDDLE of a wall...not near a corner. I know the stove shop said around 11 or 12 inches behind the stove will be the gap to the wall and in front I think it needs somewhere around two 24"...but again, can anyone tell me what the width and length of this thing needs to be?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[begreen]

Seems to be pretty clearly laid out in this diagram. I'd make it to the Canadian standard if uncertain, though a half-sheet of plywood would do at 4' x 4'. Note that usually Lowes or HD will cut tile for you. No need to use scrap, just measure carefully.

 

[emt1581]

By all accounts it seems like 4'x4' is what I need...

Thanks!!

-Emt1581

 

[emt1581]

I just caught your edit..

Seriously? If I need a bunch of them cut...they'll do it for me?

I still think the Mosaic/Broken tile would look cool...although I can't find many/any people who have done it pic-wise...but that's great if I can get away without having to cut anything and get Lowes/HD to do it for me.

Thanks!!

-Emt1581

 

[emt1581]

Just checked...it's 8" o.c. for walls...6" for ceilings... doesn't say for floors but I can't imagine it would matter much seeing as how it doesn't have the cling to anything.

I think I'll take a trip to Lowes tomorrow and pick up the supplies I need and get crackin!

Any last tips/advice before I buy everything?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[snowleopard]

HD carries trim that you can buy by the foot. I used some fluted oak casing from there that was 2-1/16". My hearth was just a hair too short, so put a piece of cardboard under it to shim it up to match the height of the trim. Figured it might squish out too much to do the job, but it worked out.

I really like the way my hearth looks; the wood is a little fancier than the wood trim I have in the house, but I think it's a good transition between that and the stove, which is a little bit ornate in a hobbity way. The the trim is not real thick, so I'll be watching it to see how it survies the thousand knocks that hearths are heir to. If I end up having to redo this, I'd use thicker, plainer trim to match my woodwork, and just butt the corners. With this, I don't have a miter saw, so took it to the local lumberyard and they did a great job mitering it for me for a few bucks.

A good hearth is, I'm thinking, like a good loaf of homemade bread or hand-knit mittens:
@Even if it's not perfectly machined, you've still brought a work of goodness into the universe, and
@you're going to learn a lot in the process, and I suspect that they just get better from there.
Unlike mittens and bread, though, most of us probably won't have a lot of opportunity to apply what we've learned to another hearth, except vicariously.

I think you'll find yourself happy with what you have wrought. Enjoy the process and the product.

 

[emt1581]

HD carries trim that you can buy by the foot. I used some fluted oak casing from there that was 2-1/16". My hearth was just a hair too short, so put a piece of cardboard under it to shim it up to match the height of the trim. Figured it might squish out too much to do the job, but it worked out.

I really like the way my hearth looks; the wood is a little fancier than the wood trim I have in the house, but I think it's a good transition between that and the stove, which is a little bit ornate in a hobbity way. The the trim is not real thick, so I'll be watching it to see how it survies the thousand knocks that hearths are heir to. If I end up having to redo this, I'd use thicker, plainer trim to match my woodwork, and just butt the corners. With this, I don't have a miter saw, so took it to the local lumberyard and they did a great job mitering it for me for a few bucks.

A good hearth is, I'm thinking, like a good loaf of homemade bread or hand-knit mittens:
@Even if it's not perfectly machined, you've still brought a work of goodness into the universe, and
@you're going to learn a lot in the process, and I suspect that they just get better from there.
Unlike mittens and bread, though, most of us probably won't have a lot of opportunity to apply what we've learned to another hearth, except vicariously.

I think you'll find yourself happy with what you have wrought. Enjoy the process and the product.

Thanks for the info. I'd love to see a pic or two of the trim/hearth.

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[snowleopard]

Thanks for the info. I'd love to see a pic or two of the trim/hearth.

Thanks!
-Emt1581

I actually have pix, but what I can't find is the cord that allows me to download pix from the camera. I'll take another peek around tomorrow--it has to be somewhere, but w/ 2xteeners, electronic whatsits tend to appear and disappear with the tides around here.

 

[blel]

Use a harder wood such as oak, mahogany, etc for the trim. If you use something soft like pine, it will get beat up and dinged before very long, even if you are careful about it.

 

[emt1581]

Use a harder wood such as oak, mahogany, etc for the trim. If you use something soft like pine, it will get beat up and dinged before very long, even if you are careful about it.

Good point. Still this trim, I found what I want but it's around my bar in the basement. It's about 3" thick but it has a lip over it to house the layers. Not sure where the guy got it since he's dead. So is there a specific name for the TYPE of trim I want?

I'm curious about something else...

Given that the Micore is 3/4" thick, what's the thinnest cement board and plywood I can get away with to be strong enough to handle the weight of the stove, and not crack...especially during transport/positioning?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[firefighterjake]

Random thoughts . . .

Wood trim . . . use whatever you want in whatever way you want . . . as long as it is out past the combustibles clearances . . . I used painted white pine . . . simple cuts . . . nothing fancy . . . but then again my house is a pretty simple Cape with a lot of simple angles.

Hearth . . . your order sounds good . . . and I would go with the plywood base and make the Micore sandwich.

Cement board . . . 1/2 inch . . . no doubt there. Plywood . . . I would go with 1/2-3/4 inch plywood . . . then again I like a good, non-flexible base.

 

[emt1581]

How come no one mentioned that haribacker, durock, etc...do not come in 4'x8' sheets?? I had no clue I was going to have to buy two sheets and piece it together.

Anyways, we're going with a simple tile/grout/thinset. Is there anything I should know about requirements or subjecting this stuff to such extreme heat before I buy it?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[emt1581]

Anyone?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[orionrogue]

I dont think you have much to worry about, wrt heat. Before you buy your grout, just read the label and make sure it not meant for high heat environments. Good luck.

 

[begreen]

Anyone?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

Call around lumber supply stores for different sized sheets. Most stores just stock the 3x5 sheets because it is what fits in a standard bathroom tub install. No big deal, it's pretty easy to snap cut, just follow the directions. There are lots of sites the have do it yourself tiling instructions. Some links have already been provided, read thoroughly and it will be fairly easy. Don't read and it'll be scrubbing grout glaze for the next month.

 

[CountryBoy19]

we found one that works at Lowes. Only problem is that I'm trying to get away without using a tile/wet saw

Uh, Lowes will cut them for you if you bought them there.