Osburn 2400 insert install

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Schmev

New Member
Dec 1, 2014
27
Doylestown, PA
First off thanks to everyone on this board for their thorough instructions on installations. If it wasnt for this site i would have never attempted to do this myself. It is very much appreciated.

Now on to the installation, it was by no means easy but I took my time and managed to get it done without killing myself. Hardest part was lining up the liner adapter to the flue collar of the insert. But once i got it seated properly it fit snug and the self tapping screws held it in place.

Also, I cant recommend Shoulder Dollys enough. Me and my brother in law lifted that 500lb hog from my garage around to the front door and into my family room pretty easily. They are rated for 800 pounds and i believe it. Best $40 I ever spent.

At the advice from you guys I stuffed as much roxul into/above the damper area as i could and then put in my block off plate. And then stuffed roxul around the sides and back of the firebox. My masonary firebox is pretty large (about 35" across the back) so i wanted to stop as much loss around the back and sides as possible.

I had the first break in fire last night. Burned some pallet kindling and got the stovetop temp up to 250-275. Is there anything I should be on the lookout for with the first couple burns? I didnt smell any smoke (just the paint curing) and my insulated chimney liner (16' exterior chimney) seemed to be drafting well. I'm trying to get the hang of the air controls. Any advice would be appreciated.

My wife loves it. Although she didnt understand why we couldnt get the temps up to 500 degrees on the first burn :-)

Sorry at work now so no pics but I'll upload some tonight.


FYI to all the DIYers.... DO NOT screw the door faceplate screws in with an impact driver!!!!! You will shear off the head and have to redrill/tap another hole and lose an hour of install time. Ask me how I know!
 
Forgot to add that i did not add furnace cement around the flue collar and I have seen threads where some of you have. Is this step neccessary? I can open it back up if need be.
 
Congrats!!
 
you also forgot to add pics. haha. i want to see how you installed the 2400. flush or extended, and how much extension could you get away with?
 
Great- I just did mine on Tuesday as well. However, I removed the door and the bricks to reduce the weight- and used a regular hand truck. I too had issues with the door overlay - even with a regular screw driver, I could not get them snug enough without then breaking. I had to drill out two old screws. I'm going to buy some stainless steel ones, and a few washers- and redo them- as I don't think the overlay threads are proper. I'm hoping not to need the washers, but I don't like the looseness in the overlay as it is now.

My 6" fitting was smooth welded Stainless steel (NOT CRIMPED), and it fit snug and tight - so I too did not seal it. I did on my other insert. I also found that the strapping to hold the fitting was too short- and never would touch the fitting- so I made my own. I plan to get a 45' to make sweeping and a better fit anyway- but cement for me would need to be installed with the stove half out.

I haven't actually installed the trim yet- I put it together, but I usually wait a week or two just to be sure everything is looking good. But once installed, I think I will have a 8-10" extension. I have already boiled water on top and the stove is overheating my room as its only 50 deg today - but I just couldn't resist!! Hopefully, we will get back to some normal temps.

good Luck!!
 
Forgot to add that i did not add furnace cement around the flue collar and I have seen threads where some of you have. Is this step neccessary? I can open it back up if need be.
You don't need to, it just dries up and breaks off anyway.
 
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