Oslo door hanging low- hinge problem

[newatthis]

Hi- our new Oslo door is actually dragging onto the air control handle- it's hanging too low. I think it has probably been doing this from the start, but I only noticed it in the last couple of weeks. We took the door off, and heard a ping and there seems to have been a washer on one of the hinges, raising the door. (The washer fell to the floor.) But the door is not quite raised up enough to clear the air lever. If we raise the door with another washer, or a thicker one, to clear the air lever, the pin may be too high to engage the bottom part of the hinge. Was it not cast correctly? Should I do a dollar bill test to test the gasket near the hinge when it cools? I usually use the side door, and think that is why I didn't realize it right away.

 

[claydogg84]

Hi- our new Oslo door is actually dragging onto the air control handle- it's hanging too low. I think it has probably been doing this from the start, but I only noticed it in the last couple of weeks. We took the door off, and heard a ping and there seems to have been a washer on one of the hinges, raising the door. (The washer fell to the floor.) But the door is not quite raised up enough to clear the air lever. If we raise the door with another washer, or a thicker one, to clear the air lever, the pin may be too high to engage the bottom part of the hinge. Was it not cast correctly? Should I do a dollar bill test to test the gasket near the hinge when it cools? I usually use the side door, and think that is why I didn't realize it right away.

How new is it? Call the dealer!!

 

[xman23]

It has been said by others there was an issue with the lever jamming on something. I believe people were bending it a bit to clear. Someone here that had the problem maybe able to explain. I never had that, but do have the typical stickey slider. Yearly I pull the dog house and lube up the slide. This maybe your problem.

The brass washer is under one of the hinges to prevent the glass to glass (enamal to enamel) contact at the pivot point. With out it it's finger nails dragging on a slate chalk board as you move the door. I would be careful raising or lowering the door, as it will need to land in the door gasket properly.

 

[begreen]

The washer on the lower hinge is critical. You will need to find one that fits correctly and is of the right thickness to align the door. Get several of varying thickness from the hardware store that fit the hinge pin and try them out.

 

[webby3650]

You definitely want to get a washer in there.
I have had a few new Oslo's that had this happen right out of the box. The air control lever had a slight uphill slope to it, and it hit the door a little. Try bending the lever down a tiny bit so it clears the door. Assuming the door is working correctly.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

X man. What do you use to lube up the air adjustment guts?
Ours sticks a little, getting worse this year.
Need to be a high temp product, grease or a wd type of product?

 

[newatthis]

In the picture, the washer is in the bottom hinge- it's silver.

 

[firefighterjake]

My Oslo either came with or I had to install a washer on the bottom hinge . . . as mentioned . . . be sure to get a correct size replacement if needed.

WarmInNH . . . I've had good luck with powdered graphite. I've removed the doghouse (two 10 mm . . . maybe 8 mm bolts) when cool, vacuumed out the accumulated fly ash and then generous applied powdered graphite to the sliding mechanism. This tends to work for most of the winter . . . sometimes I have to apply again. I've also noticed that with occasional vacuuming with an ash vac from the front of the stove near the air control lever that the air control lever tends to not bind as often . . . I suspect it binds from the ash getting into the mechanism and affecting how easily it moves.

 

[newatthis]

I meant to put the above picture right after my original post. I found the washer and replaced it on the bottom hinge. Should it go on the top? The enamel inside the bottom hinge was worn.

How hard is it to bend the lever, and am I going to hurt anything by doing so? It doesn't need much bending to clear.

 

[brad wilton]

call the dealer if it's still under warranty. if you bust something they will just tell you to hit the highway,if not then start fiddiling

 

[webby3650]

I meant to put the above picture right after my original post. I found the washer and replaced it on the bottom hinge. Should it go on the top? The enamel inside the bottom hinge was worn.

How hard is it to bend the lever, and am I going to hurt anything by doing so? It doesn't need much bending to clear.

The washer is in the correct place.
The lever will take very little force to straighten it up. It's an easy fix.

 

[xman23]

X man. What do you use to lube up the air adjustment guts?
Ours sticks a little, getting worse this year.
Need to be a high temp product, grease or a wd type of product?

As Jake said, I to lube it up once or twice a year. Something dry. I wouldn't try grease or oil. I've tried graphite. But the one I like the best is called P & B blaster " the dry lube" , with PTEF, the non silicon version. Get it at HD. It sprays on and drys to a white powder. If you haven't lubed the slide, you'll be amazed how well it works when you do.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

As Jake said, I to lube it up once or twice a year. Something dry. I wouldn't try grease or oil. I've tried graphite. But the one I like the best is called P & B blaster " the dry lube" , with PTEF, the non silicon version. Get it at HD. It sprays on and drys to a white powder. If you haven't lubed the slide, you'll be amazed how well it works when you do.

Great. Thanks. About two hours after I asked that question, graphite powder popped into my head. Next question. How do you take the dog house apart? Stove is in the house I'm not in this weekend, it'll probably be self explanatory when I see it again.

 

[webby3650]

Great. Thanks. About two hours after I asked that question, graphite powder popped into my head. Next question. How do you take the dog house apart? Stove is in the house I'm not in this weekend, it'll probably be self explanatory when I see it again.

You just take out the 2 10mm bolts that old the cover on. Under that is the iron piece that slides. Just take note of how it looks before you take it apart, it is very simple.

 

[DTrain]

In the picture, the washer is in the bottom hinge- it's silver.
View attachment 147944

Whaaaaat? I got my Oslo used. I usually read any post with Oslo in the title. And I'm looking at the stove and I don't have the washer. I do have a control lever that is slightly bend downward!

Besides the door hitting the control, which isn't a problem now because the lady that owned it before bent it already, is there any other reason to add the washer. The door seems to pass the dollar bill test.

 

[begreen]

There might be a very thin washer in there. There was on our Castine. But maybe not.

 

[firefighterjake]

Great. Thanks. About two hours after I asked that question, graphite powder popped into my head. Next question. How do you take the dog house apart? Stove is in the house I'm not in this weekend, it'll probably be self explanatory when I see it again.

Not sure if it is still here, but I did a thread once that had a step by step description with pics showing how to remove the doghouse and apply the graphite . . . that said, it's not all that hard. Wait until the stove is cool, use a 10 mm (or maybe it was 8 mm) socket to remove the two bolts holding down the doghouse (that bump where the air comes in at the front of the firebox) and remove the dog house cover. I tend to vacuum out any ash that has accumulated in the sliding mechanism before applying the graphite powder. Then reattach the doghouse and Bob's your uncle.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

Done. New vermiculite baffle with new blanket. Cleaned and lubed air intake, moves like it's on rollers now, so easy!


Are the bolts that hold these things together anything special or can I replace them with new ones straight from the bin at the hardware store?

2 out of 3 that hold the top on are slightly bent, either from me nearly snapping them while gingerly trying to work them out or from moving the stove and lifting it from the top.
I put them back in with never seize on them so they should be easy to replace.

 

[firefighterjake]

Done. New vermiculite baffle with new blanket. Cleaned and lubed air intake, moves like it's on rollers now, so easy!
View attachment 148344 View attachment 148345

Are the bolts that hold these things together anything special or can I replace them with new ones straight from the bin at the hardware store?

2 out of 3 that hold the top on are slightly bent, either from me nearly snapping them while gingerly trying to work them out or from moving the stove and lifting it from the top.
I put them back in with never seize on them so they should be easy to replace.

Technically you don't even need to bolt the top back on believe it or not . . . although I left mine attached . . . made me feel better.