So you have a layer of cement board then wood??? Great idea
Also what is under the tile Infront of the fireplace?
Cement board.
Out with really old open insert
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Cement board.
More jokes they will certainly make all of these safety issues ok.
Again I am just trying to help keep you safe.
Again I am just trying to help keep you safe.
Yes, of course I do. Do you know that I have ran the open insert for the last several years before I had this done with just the clay liners.
I do understand where your coming from but at no time has anything ever been unsafe.
I do understand where your coming from but at no time has anything ever been unsafe.
If you were running a slammer it was unsafe whether you want to admit it or not.
Do you know what pyrolysis is?
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Or subfloor under insufficient hearth protection. Or wood overtop of a layer of cement board right overtop of an old insert.
If you can make the setup safe you might want to consider swapping the timberline for something like this.
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Holy smokes is my kitchen going to be warm this winter. Got it dialed in perfectly at 450 with some scrap lumber.
Sealant won't hold up there but that's a good temp for sure especially in warm weather. So it seems like the 6" will work. Doesn't fix any of the safety issues but it burns
I am a worry wort but it looks good but what do I know?? I sure hope everything works out okay and it remains "safe" for you and your love one The stove looks real good and anyway you could get a telescope camera on the chimney just to be sure that everything is up and up.. ..Congrats on your upcoming wedding and bless both of you with wonderful health for the future years- at least the best that it can be..
clancey
www.jacquielawson.com
clancey
A Heart Entwined
Roses and clematis form a decorative display. Also includes a puzzle to play!
www.jacquielawson.com
The sealant used was the proper furnace glue or cement whatever it is.
I had to heat the stove up today and run in for that stuff to set in.
I have am AWESOME updraft BTW with a 6 inch flu.
The trick is to burn well seasoned wood
I had to heat the stove up today and run in for that stuff to set in.
I have am AWESOME updraft BTW with a 6 inch flu.
The trick is to burn well seasoned wood
I hope when I light my stove that it does as well and it will be lite by my installer on Sept 28th and might make a party of it.. lol..I have kiln dried wood and wanted to get out to a fireplace store with my friend to buy a few things and gauges and other things as well that they might offer but with all of this covid now I am just staying home...Your stove looks nice...clancey
Yes I assumed furnace cement was used and it won't hold up and should not be needed.
The concern with a 6" flue on stoves like these is many times 6" simply doesn't have enough volume for the stove to work properly. As the flue is downsized volume reduces in prefer for your stove to work correctly velocity needs to increase greatly to compensate for the reduced volume. I have found many times this just isn't possible and the stove will never run properly. Apparently yours can. Seasoned wood while fantastic simply won't fix a flue that is to small.
But again performance concerns are only one very small part of the problem with your install. There are still very serious safety issues whether you think they are a joke or not.
No joke and sorry about making it seem that way.
I was able to test the fireplace out on a 30 degree night here in MI and my flu temperature remained 400 degrees for several hours making it 80 degrees in my kitchen.
The large opening really dumps and radiates heat out into the kitchen.
I'm going to order a door corner fan to have some if that heat pushed in my mudroom which will eliminate the need for me to use my propane ventless wall heater unless going away from home for a while.
With the exception of some safety issues yous have it heated my kitchen all night with no issues and I'm happy with the install.
I was able to test the fireplace out on a 30 degree night here in MI and my flu temperature remained 400 degrees for several hours making it 80 degrees in my kitchen.
The large opening really dumps and radiates heat out into the kitchen.
I'm going to order a door corner fan to have some if that heat pushed in my mudroom which will eliminate the need for me to use my propane ventless wall heater unless going away from home for a while.
With the exception of some safety issues yous have it heated my kitchen all night with no issues and I'm happy with the install.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Your fire district, they are obviously pyros lining up future business...don't burn that thing while you sleep!
Steel plate sheets and welds do not do well with uneven heating.
Here is what you create without proper clearance to the front half of the Insert;
The front is a single wall sheet made to radiate heat into the heated area. This is radiant heat.
The back portion with outer shell is designed for convected heat. A blower helps move the heated air out the top vent, heating by convection.
Fisher had to recommend 3 inches of clearance to masonry or non-combustible walls around stove due to cooling the side and rear sheets of stoves in an alcove or hearth. Designed to radiate in all directions, stoves without enough air flow caused the front cooled by radiation outward, and the back and sides stayed hot. This temperature differential caused welds to crack, sides to buckle, and was one of the only warranty issues Fisher had. Hence the minimum air flow clearance requirement.
The rear of this Insert will cool by convection with a blower. The front will not radiate into the room as designed and remains much hotter than the back. The firebox is the front outer box that extends rearward inside the air chamber all the way to the back. This is far too much temperature differential for the side and top sheets. 1/4 inch steel plate cannot overheat and expand in the front and contract in the rear on a single sheet.
Also the convection air outlet is designed for the heated air to rise up and over an angled deflector plate which deflects heat from mantel when the air outlet is flush with fireplace face. This rising of hot air allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH cool air into the air intake at the bottom of Insert front. You will not have the airflow to cause the convected air to circulate around the rear half of firebox inside the air chamber without a mechanical blower.
The reason for removing the heat by convection from the rear half inside the original fireplace is to heat the indoor air, instead of masonry. The masonry mass does radiate heat into the room, but it also radiates upward carrying more heat through the roof and outside. An interior chimney with second floor above it benefits the most from heating the mass of masonry.
If the original masonry chimney does not have proper clearance to combustible framing, the liner must be insulated by code. Local governments can add to codes making them more strict, but cannot take away from your statewide requirements or national Standard of NFPA 211 which still applies.
I assume there is no flue damper??
Here is what you create without proper clearance to the front half of the Insert;
The front is a single wall sheet made to radiate heat into the heated area. This is radiant heat.
The back portion with outer shell is designed for convected heat. A blower helps move the heated air out the top vent, heating by convection.
Fisher had to recommend 3 inches of clearance to masonry or non-combustible walls around stove due to cooling the side and rear sheets of stoves in an alcove or hearth. Designed to radiate in all directions, stoves without enough air flow caused the front cooled by radiation outward, and the back and sides stayed hot. This temperature differential caused welds to crack, sides to buckle, and was one of the only warranty issues Fisher had. Hence the minimum air flow clearance requirement.
The rear of this Insert will cool by convection with a blower. The front will not radiate into the room as designed and remains much hotter than the back. The firebox is the front outer box that extends rearward inside the air chamber all the way to the back. This is far too much temperature differential for the side and top sheets. 1/4 inch steel plate cannot overheat and expand in the front and contract in the rear on a single sheet.
Also the convection air outlet is designed for the heated air to rise up and over an angled deflector plate which deflects heat from mantel when the air outlet is flush with fireplace face. This rising of hot air allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH cool air into the air intake at the bottom of Insert front. You will not have the airflow to cause the convected air to circulate around the rear half of firebox inside the air chamber without a mechanical blower.
The reason for removing the heat by convection from the rear half inside the original fireplace is to heat the indoor air, instead of masonry. The masonry mass does radiate heat into the room, but it also radiates upward carrying more heat through the roof and outside. An interior chimney with second floor above it benefits the most from heating the mass of masonry.
If the original masonry chimney does not have proper clearance to combustible framing, the liner must be insulated by code. Local governments can add to codes making them more strict, but cannot take away from your statewide requirements or national Standard of NFPA 211 which still applies.
I assume there is no flue damper??
I have a fan installed blowing hot air OUT and into the kitchen for those that did not know this.
Please do not scold me but I have had several months already of wood heat in my kitchen.
Please do not scold me but I have had several months already of wood heat in my kitchen.
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