Outside Air Kit

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BethelStrong

Member
Dec 12, 2018
146
Ohio
Do I want an outside air intake for my EPA Quadrafire Millennium 3100?

I didn’t say need, due to the fact I’m heating my little house easily with this stove, but I wonder what benefits I’d realize if I did draw air from outside. My house is circa 1950’s, but has insulation in the attic and new windows. Otherwise it’s not very tight...



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Do I want an outside air intake for my EPA Quadrafire Millennium 3100?

I didn’t say need, due to the fact I’m heating my little house easily with this stove, but I wonder what benefits I’d realize if I did draw air from outside. My house is circa 1950’s, but has insulation in the attic and new windows. Otherwise it’s not very tight...



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If it is easy to install correctly I would there isn't much downside
 
If it is easy to install correctly I would there isn't much downside

I don’t know about easy, or correctly, but I’m game to try if it’s potentially worth it. All I know about it is Canadians seem to go for it, and having more oxygen in the house can’t be bad.

Thanks man.


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I don’t know about easy, or correctly, but I’m game to try if it’s potentially worth it. All I know about it is Canadians seem to go for it, and having more oxygen in the house can’t be bad.

Thanks man.


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As long as the stove is above grade and not far from an exterior wall it should be fine
 
It is. The only issue (for me) is getting through the wall. It has a stone face on the outside.


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I wouldn't hesitate to go through the stone my self but you need the right tools
 
I have a hammer drill and a sledge hammer :) Joking of course...

What are the right tools? Some high speed hole cutter?


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You could easily do it with a hammer drill and a grinder with a diamond blade
 
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As long as the stove is above grade and not far from an exterior wall it should be fine
I just got used free standing Osburn 2400 for basement. its below ground for the most parts. I plan on burning it couple times a year for parties and karaoke nights. Should I bother with installing OAK? I have large fpx upstairs and its our main source of heat.
 
I have the cheaper version of your stove and I can say that I am very glad that I put an OAK on it. Goes straight out the back through the wall. Your far rooms will be much warmer without a draft pulling toward the stove.
 
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I have the cheaper version of your stove and I can say that I am very glad that I put an OAK on it. Goes straight out the back through the wall. Your far rooms will be much warmer without a draft pulling toward the stove.

Going for it. But for next season...

I mean, the last line sold me!


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I would recommend it if you can get through the stone without causing any problems. I installed one on my stove after using the stove for a year or so. It greatly improved airflow during startup. I have the same stove in my basement without an outside air kit. I usually have to light some newspaper in the chimney cleanout to get the draft moving the right direction. The chimneys are different but the difference after installing the outside air kit was noticeably better.
 
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Going for it. But for next season...

I mean, the last line sold me!


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Yes, think about it. The far rooms are hard enough to heat. With an OAK you will be minimizing or completely eliminating the air leaks from windows and sill plates in those rooms due to the negative pressure caused by the strong draw of the stove.
 
Depending on the type of stone multiple small holes with the hammer drill will work , the other option is rent or borrow a core drill .
 
2 questions, what benefit would Above Grade do? also, would a kit lessen or eliminate the suck from negative pressure on my side by side clay lined masonry chimney ( fireplace and stove)
 
The above mostly has be talked into it as well. Would not be bad for me. Plaster & lath, airspace, clapboard, foam and vinyl siding. Probably a summer project.
 
2 questions, what benefit would Above Grade do? also, would a kit lessen or eliminate the suck from negative pressure on my side by side clay lined masonry chimney ( fireplace and stove)
Above or below grade matter because the oak cannot run up from the stove. If it is below grade you cant hook up to the stove. And yes fresh air to the stove will reduce the effects of negative pressure. Possible eliminate them.
 
Haven't seen this asked but taking cooler air from outside, would this cool down the stove more than taking the air from within the house otherwise?
 
Haven't seen this asked but taking cooler air from outside, would this cool down the stove more than taking the air from within the house otherwise?
Yes slightly but not enough to matter
 
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Depending on the type of stone multiple small holes with the hammer drill will work , the other option is rent or borrow a core drill .

Brilliant! I’ve got this on my list for this Summer, after the wood shed.

On really cold days I notice the bedroom walls sweat a lot. I have new windows, but the house in 1950, so I’m guessing no wall insulation. It’s 1950 brick or stone, and plaster. I’m really hoping that the OAC is a noticeable improvement.

Thanks!


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I have the cheaper version of your stove and I can say that I am very glad that I put an OAK on it. Goes straight out the back through the wall. Your far rooms will be much warmer without a draft pulling toward the stove.

If there is any amount of heat rising over the stove there will still be a draft along the floor. The only way I know of to NOT have a draft along the floor is to heat the floor. Any time you have a localized heat source in a room there will be convective currents. Fig0803.jpg
 
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If there is any amount of heat rising over the stove there will still be a draft along the floor. The only way I know of to NOT have a draft along the floor is to heat the floor. Any time you have a localized heat source in a room there will be convective currents. View attachment 242261
Yes there will always be cool air moving across the floor to the stove. I haven't noticed much of any difference after hooking up an oak.