The other day the stove was running fine, it has been for years. I came back in the house and it was humming. Shut it down pulled it out and cleared the auger as I assumed it was jammed. Put it all back in turned it on and it ran fine for about 5 mins then blew the fuse. Unplugged all four items and plugged them back in one at a time. The fuse didn’t blow until I plugged in the green ground to the distribution motor. Replaced the fuse turned it back on and the fuse pops instantly. Anything on this?
P35I blowing fuse
- Thread starter bweld1982
- Start date
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Unplug the power source & try to inspect all wires. There may be a section of sheathing that is compromised & is causing a ground short condition.
Ok did that. Repaired whatever looked suspicious. Hooked all back up. Leave the ground off of the distribution motor, everything works. Plug that ground it and fuse pops instantly still.
It has to be something hinky in the blower. Not sure if that can be removed, disassembled & inspected.
Can you check the ground wire for continuity?
Can you check the ground wire for continuity?
I replaced the motor with a new one and made sure all the wires were good. Still same issue.
Dayum. Sure sounds like something else is shorting to the insert body, & the ground wire is causing the feedback.
Not sure where to tell you to look
Not sure where to tell you to look
....following....
Just replaced my distribution blower motor last night...replacement motor was wired completely differently than the original, but I followed their instructions on the new motor...The ground wire was the bogey. The new motor had the terminal blocked where the ground went in the old motor, then I noticed a punch out on the motor housing that is meant as a male for a female ground plug...no reference to this in the instructions...very frustrating. My original ground wire off the old motor was a circle attachment that bolted to the motor, so I found a screw on the new motor assembly and hooked up the ground to that...plug the stove in and it immediately pops the fuse....The distribution motor is bolted to the cast iron stove...so it's inherently grounded...I think the ground wire is redundant, so I'm going to try just pulling the ground off the motor tonight and running it without and see if it stops popping fuses....stay tuned...
Just replaced my distribution blower motor last night...replacement motor was wired completely differently than the original, but I followed their instructions on the new motor...The ground wire was the bogey. The new motor had the terminal blocked where the ground went in the old motor, then I noticed a punch out on the motor housing that is meant as a male for a female ground plug...no reference to this in the instructions...very frustrating. My original ground wire off the old motor was a circle attachment that bolted to the motor, so I found a screw on the new motor assembly and hooked up the ground to that...plug the stove in and it immediately pops the fuse....The distribution motor is bolted to the cast iron stove...so it's inherently grounded...I think the ground wire is redundant, so I'm going to try just pulling the ground off the motor tonight and running it without and see if it stops popping fuses....stay tuned...
I have a p35i Harman Pellet stove with the same problem, replaced the distribution motor and still popped fuses. My fuses are in-line 2amp fuses and the one for my distribution motor is the only one that pops. I put a new fuse in and ran the stove in test mode while the stove was pulled out and the distribution motor light cam on and the distribution fan ran wide open, I up the stove back in the frame and ran it in test mode and the distribution blower light came on and the distribution motor ran wide open. I started the stove up and the light came on but the distribution motor never came on so I pulled the stove out and the fuse was good so I disconnected the ground wire from the distribution motor and now everything works as it should.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
Only a fault from the hot in the motor to frame/neutral/ground should blow a fuse. Other than that something is miswired or faulty wiring.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
If disconnecting a "good" ground wire makes the fault go away, then the ground wire you disconnected must be bad. They sometimes seem to use cab tire cable, and there might be a bad spot. I'd run a new ground wire and try that. Any painted frame mechanical connection is not considered a ground.
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