Pacific Energy 1997series D standard adjusting secondary burner

[Blazzinghot]

I am rebuilding a Pacific Energy 1997 series D standard wood stove. Had to make new top inside left and right top rails that hold the secondary burn plate. I noticed on this model that the secondary air adjusts with the primary air. When you close down the primary air it also closes down the secondary air. I have not seen this before on the other wood stoves I have worked on. From what I have seen the secondary is always open with no adjustments. I am thinking about disconnecting the secondary air from the primary so it is always open. What are your thoughts?

 

[john26]

I have a late 90's series D that works the way you describe. I personally would not want to disconnect it, at times I wish mine would close down further for a longer burn and more control but I also have a 30' flu. I think it would burn hot, be harder to control, and use more wood.

 

[Blazzinghot]

The link to the secondary burn was broken when I got the stove so someone had been using it for sometime with the secondary closed or open or somewhere In between. The front part of the top rails were totally burned out which indicates the stove was not used properly. I welded the secondary link back together so maybe I will just sell the stove the way it was meant to be. Does your stove have the brass decor on the front. This one does. I have never seen one like it before.

 

[begreen]

The linked secondary air worked quite well. It was exclusive to the Super series until replaced with the EBT2 in 2020. It worked well at extending the burn. I would get it working right. The only other stove brand I can recall having this was Enviro which were made nearby.

It sounds like the stove was rode hard. The stainless side rails and other parts are still available. How does the baffle look?

 

[begreen]

I have a late 90's series D that works the way you describe. I personally would not want to disconnect it, at times I wish mine would close down further for a longer burn and more control but I also have a 30' flu. I think it would burn hot, be harder to control, and use more wood.

Sounds like the stove needs a key damper to knock down the draft a bit.

 

[Blazzinghot]

The linked secondary air worked quite well. It was exclusive to the Super series until replaced with the EBT2 in 2020. It worked well at extending the burn. I would get it working right. The only other stove brand I can recall having this was Enviro which were made nearby.

It sounds like the stove was rode hard. The stainless side rails and other parts are still available. How does the baffle look?

Thanks for your comments. I did know that they had parts for this stove but for $20.00 I purchased 1/4 steel tubing and cut it in half and was able to make both rails. I try to keep the cost down when I resell these stoves. But still can't wrap my mind around adjusting the secondary air. But I am still learning.

 

[john26]

I replaced a Lopi with this insert because of the secondary air adjustment and the north to south loading . I have a key damper installed but it is a little finicky from time to time.

 

[Blazzinghot]

Thanks for your comments. I did know that they had parts for this stove but for $20.00 I purchased 1/4 steel tubing and cut it in half and was able to make both rails. I try to keep the cost down when I resell these stoves. But still can't wrap my mind around adjusting the secondary air. But I am still learning.

Just reading through this post again. The baffle was in good shape. I cleaned it up and am going to reuse it. The top plate that was bolted on the by the flu was warped so I am cutting a new one today and then adding some extra support to keep it from curling. For some reason the front end of the stove seemed to get the hottest. The glass was in good condition.

 

[begreen]

The front end is where the flue gases wrap around the baffle. They are fed both secondary and airwash air at that location. There is also boost air fed at the bottom front. If the draft is very strong then it's best to tame it by either using a key damper on the flue or blocking off the boost air, or both.

 

[Blazzinghot]

begreen, you certainly know these stove well. I did find the boost air intakes hole when I cleaned the bottom front steel metal air disperser. It was totally plugged up. You are correct the front end of the stove is where allot of the action takes place. The 1/4 inch side bars I installed should last a long time is the stove is used properly. I am still waiting for the new insulation before I test this stove out. Then it will be ready to sale. This is the finished stove.

 

[mojoliveshere]

begreen, you certainly know these stove well. I did find the boost air intakes hole when I cleaned the bottom front steel metal air disperser. It was totally plugged up. You are correct the front end of the stove is where allot of the action takes place. The 1/4 inch side bars I installed should last a long time is the stove is used properly. I am still waiting for the new insulation before I test this stove out. Then it will be ready to sale. This is the finished stove.

View attachment 299174

Nice work on the refurb, this stove looks great.

I am picking up a PE Series D insert from the same year so it was great to read about your experience. Do you know what the little gauge thing on the front is for?

 

[Blazzinghot]

Nice work on the refurb, this stove looks great.

I am picking up a PE Series D insert from the same year so it was great to read about your experience. Do you know what the little gauge thing on the front is for?

Yes it is a temp gage similar to the one you put on top of the wood stove. It helps to make sure you don’t over heat the stove. It is good to know what temp your stove is at so you don’t burn to cold or hot. I will find out if the temp gage still works when I get this wood stove fired up.

 

[mojoliveshere]

Yes it is a temp gage similar to the one you put on top of the wood stove. It helps to make sure you don’t over heat the stove. It is good to know what temp your stove is at so you don’t burn to cold or hot. I will find out if the temp gage still works when I get this wood stove fired up.

Good to know- thanks for the info!

 

[Blazzinghot]

I just noticed you are new to the forum so welcome. Not sure if you have used a wood stove with a secondary burner before so you might read the info posted here. And if you have had one before it is still a good read or reminder. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/starting-a-fire-and-running-an-epa-stove.179714/

 

[Blazzinghot]

Just burned two medium size loads of wood in this Pacific Energy Stove this morning. I have to say I really like the way it burns wood. I burned some popular with some oak. It did not take long to get up to temp and the window stayed very clean throughout the whole burn time. The flames dance very nicely and the secondary burn is very different than I have seen on other stoves as you have a wall of flames coming down from the top front of the baffle from the secondary air. Very good control with the air control. I almost would like to keep it but I am in love with my Jotul F45.

 

[begreen]

Well done. The light show is unique.
Were you able to get the secondary air linkage reconnected?

 

[Blazzinghot]

Well done. The light show is unique.
Were you able to get the secondary air linkage reconnected?

Yes, my wife and myself loved the flame show in this stove. My wife really likes the brass trim which sets it off. I removed all the linkage for the secondary system and welded back together and repainted it all then installed and it worked like new. I am putting on the market right now.

 

[JNF]

Yes, my wife and myself loved the flame show in this stove. My wife really likes the brass trim which sets it off. I removed all the linkage for the secondary system and welded back together and repainted it all then installed and it worked like new. I am putting on the market right now.

Hello!
You look like the OG of inserts, and I'm hoping you can help. We have a Pacific Energy Series D. We need a new flame shield. We've got these numbers.
Original Part #WINS.513 but we can't find the original part dimensions anywhere online or in our manual. My husband measured the DEFORMED old part at 11.125" x 12.25".

Then he found SKU 80000397 (summ 31155) with 11.75" x 16" dimensions
Hence, I hope you have the answer...
Do you know exactly which Flame Shield part # to order and where to buy it? Or the material that needs to be used and maybe a local metal expert/welder is going to be able to make it for us?
Thank you!

 

[Blazzinghot]

Good day, not sure what you mean by flame shield? Are you talking about the top baffle which has the small holes in it? Have you called Pacific Energy as they make new stainless steel baffles to replace these older baffles. They might have one to fit. If not I have some other ideas but lets start with this first. Begreen has some info about these stoves which I am sure he will pick up on this tread and add his thoughts along with others.

 

[begreen]

The flame shield is above the baffle. We need to know the actual model of the stove or insert to be of further help. The series is not the model.

 

[Blazzinghot]

Oh, yes I had no idea this was called a flame shield. On the stove I worked the flame shield was warped so I just cut a new on and drilled the hole and installed it. I would suggest taking the old flame shield to a welding shop and have them cut a new one and drill it out so it can attach by the flue.

 

[begreen]

Yes, a sheet metal shop could make one. It should be made out of stainless steel.