Pacific Energy Super 27 for pole barn

[tlc1976]

Today I picked up an old Pacific Energy Super 27, along with a bunch of pipe and damper, for $200. This summer I will be putting it in my steel pole barn workshop. If I cut out part of a wall purlin and box it in like I would a window, I'll have about a 4 ft square area free of combustibles to pass the pipe thru, then run the pipe up the side of the building with sturdy standoffs. I'd also like to utilize the outside air kit. I've been using a diesel fueled torpedo heater, but $15 of diesel fuel every day or two adds up fast. I own 5 acres of hardwoods, so might as well utilize that. Heck, even if I bought the wood it'd be cheaper.

The only issue with the stove is the previous owner cut a 6" or so hole in the baffle. He said the stove wasn't hot enough and he thought about cutting it even bigger. I think I realized why. He had the stove sitting on the ground (blocking the bottom air intake) with the rear knock out plate for air intake still intact. The stove couldn't breathe. When we tipped it up to get it in my trailer, he wondered what that hole was on the bottom. I did my homework and downloaded the manual first.

So I can get steel from work and I'd like to weld it back up. What's it like removing the baffle on these?

 

[begreen]

Shame he did such a foolish thing. Is this an insert or freestanding stove?

Removing the baffle is easy. There is a lose pin in back that secures it in place. Wiggle this pin out then lift it in the rear about 2" to clear the secondary air supply tube and pull forward. Then lift up one side until it is tilted enough to clear the side rail on the other side and lower the baffle to the firebox floor.

Note that the baffle is actually a multilayered stainless steel box. All layers and the insulation inside will need repair. It might just be easier to buy a replacement.

 

[tlc1976]

This is a freestanding stove.

Thanks for the info. Great to know it just comes right out like that. It's very dirty so now I've got an idea what to expect and what I'm looking for.

I didn't realize it was a multilayered box with insulation inside. I can fabricate and weld stainless at work, so I'll see what I need to do. It might be easier to cut it the rest of the way open, then just duplicate it. I can also get high temp insulation and gasket material at cost. I don't plan to spend much on a shop stove, and I don't have to deal with emissions or anything, but I'd like to get it working in the ballpark of how it's intended.

 

[bholler]

This is a freestanding stove.

Thanks for the info. Great to know it just comes right out like that. It's very dirty so now I've got an idea what to expect and what I'm looking for.

I didn't realize it was a multilayered box with insulation inside. I can fabricate and weld stainless at work, so I'll see what I need to do. It might be easier to cut it the rest of the way open, then just duplicate it. I can also get high temp insulation and gasket material at cost. I don't plan to spend much on a shop stove, and I don't have to deal with emissions or anything, but I'd like to get it working in the ballpark of how it's intended.

What is the pole building going to be used for?

 

[begreen]

Hogwildz took apart a Summit baffle (same design) and documented it a few years back. That could be helpful. The lower section is the secondary plenum with a stainless lid, then insulation above with a removable stainless lid. After patching the bottom side hole you will need to drill holes for the secondary output.

 

[tlc1976]

What is the pole building going to be used for?

Working on things, woodworking, welding.

 

[tlc1976]

Hogwildz took apart a Summit baffle (same design) and documented it a few years back. That could be helpful. The lower section is the secondary plenum with a stainless lid, then insulation above with a removable stainless lid. After patching the bottom side hole you will need to drill holes for the secondary output.

Thanks, I'll see if I can find it.

 

[bholler]

Working on things, woodworking, welding.

Check with local officials about woodworking some states don't allow woodstoves in woodshops. But if there will be gasoline present in the shop it is absolutely against code to have a woodstove.

 

[Hogwildz]

I didn't dismantle the baffle, but I know these baffles very well. There is no insulation inside. The insulation is on top. Older style has an insulation blanket with the steel protect plate over top of it. New styles have a baffle board on top, no metal plate over it. There are secondary holes in the rear where the lower horizontal lip is on bottom rear of the baffle. The old styles have a line of jet holes along the front face, and on bottom of front, with a line of holes in center bottom running approx. 1/2 back from the front of the babble. New style has two additional lines of holes running same as the center line of holes, but spread out from the center towards the sides.

If the baffle is fairly flat, I don't see why you couldn't weld plates over the top & bottom holes. Drill out the necessary holes that would have been in the original area of the new bottom patch. Add a 1/2" or 5/8" insulation board on top, or replace the blanket and make a new cover pan. Baffles are $300.00+ if I remember correctly.

If you're going to use it in a shop that has any flammable liquids stored. I would make a room or cabinet for the flammables to be stored in, & mount the stove at a of a couple feet off the floor or more.

 

[begreen]

Reading the original posting I assumed this is an older style PE with the insulation inside the top section of the baffle, like your original Summit A. But if one goes back to the earliest version of the stove in the early 90's then it too had the insulation blanket on the top of the baffle.

What is the date of the stove on the UL tag on back? Can you post some shots of the stove and the stove interior?

Here's an old cutaway picture from PE and a clean interior shot that shows a replacement baffle installation with the retaining pin in the rear. This would be for a circa 1998-2012(?) PE.

 

[bholler]

I didn't dismantle the baffle, but I know these baffles very well. There is no insulation inside. The insulation is on top. Older style has an insulation blanket with the steel protect plate over top of it. New styles have a baffle board on top, no metal plate over it. There are secondary holes in the rear where the lower horizontal lip is on bottom rear of the baffle. The old styles have a line of jet holes along the front face, and on bottom of front, with a line of holes in center bottom running approx. 1/2 back from the front of the babble. New style has two additional lines of holes running same as the center line of holes, but spread out from the center towards the sides.

If the baffle is fairly flat, I don't see why you couldn't weld plates over the top & bottom holes. Drill out the necessary holes that would have been in the original area of the new bottom patch. Add a 1/2" or 5/8" insulation board on top, or replace the blanket and make a new cover pan. Baffles are $300.00+ if I remember correctly.

If you're going to use it in a shop that has any flammable liquids stored. I would make a room or cabinet for the flammables to be stored in, & mount the stove at a of a couple feet off the floor or more.

That is the way I did it in my garage. It still doesn't meet code but I am comfortable it is safe. But I am all but positive an insurance claim involving the stove would be denied because it is a clear code violation I am ok with that risk. But people need to be aware of it.

 

[Woody Stover]

That is the way I did it in my garage. It still doesn't meet code but I am comfortable it is safe. But I am all but positive an insurance claim involving the stove would be denied because it is a clear code violation I am ok with that risk. But people need to be aware of it.

Paging @webby3650. Did you ever, in your wildest dreams, think you would see this post??

 

[Hogwildz]

Reading the original posting I assumed this is an older style PE with the insulation inside the top section of the baffle, like your original Summit A. But if one goes back to the earliest version of the stove in the early 90's then it too had the insulation blanket on the top of the baffle.

What is the date of the stove on the UL tag on back? Can you post some shots of the stove and the stove interior?

Here's an old cutaway picture from PE and a clean interior shot that shows a replacement baffle installation with the retaining pin in the rear. This would be for a circa 1998-2012(?) PE.

View attachment 242752 View attachment 242753

Yep, that's an A model baffle. I think the B models came out in late 2000s to 2010ish. I know by 2013 they had the C body out. They replaced mine with a B body in 2013, and the Cs were out.

 

[bholler]

Paging @webby3650. Did you ever, in your wildest dreams, think you would see this post??

I have said it here plenty of times before.

 

[webby3650]

Paging @webby3650. Did you ever, in your wildest dreams, think you would see this post??

Holy cow!

 

[tlc1976]

Here are some photos. Made in 1993 so borderline Classic woodstove. I posted there because it's a non-catalyst woodstove. Couldn't find my post at first, I see it got moved.

Thanks to your help, I got the baffle, flame shield, and side rails out. Not without putting up a fight for a half hour with a small sledge hammer and long prybars. I almost went and got my grinder to nibble them down. A full strip of insulation (1-2" thick, a few inches tall, full stove length) came out of the right side, a shred came out of the left side. The seller mentioned wanting to get more wood to fit in it. All I can figure with the side rails is he hammered them up to get the baffle to sit higher, then cut off the lowest point of the baffle, or maybe the baffle warped after it was cut away and overfired.

Thankfully the stove body and back rail with air inlet tube are square and true. I'm not even going to bother trying to straighten these parts. They look pretty simple to duplicate, the pictures here are extremely helpful, and I can measure the stove to make sure they will end up fitting. I design shiploaders and we use 304SS quite often. I've got all summer to do this.

So is anything supposed to be inside the baffle? Or is it just a hollow box with the holes, and parts welded to it?

BTW, I won't be storing any flammable liquids inside when running the stove. Don't need a container to tip or spring a leak and go up in flames. Also I only weld flux core at home, so no tanks with flammable gas to worry about.

 

[begreen]

That is ugly. Looks like it was run hard on top of abused. Doesn't look like those parts are repairable. The stove could be an original in which the blanket was on top of the box I think. @thechimneysweep would know for sure.

 

[thechimneysweep]

The UL label, non-arched door and brass accents indicate this is a 1990 model. This stove had a mild steel baffle (hence the dramatic burnout) with a loose ceramic blanket laying on top.

To bring this critter back to life, you'll need:

A set of side rails (these support the baffle)

A new baffle (the current stainless steel baffle will fit)

A blanket insulation kit ( includes the baffle blanket you'll need if you make your own baffle, side blankets which go above the side rails and a baffle gasket )

If you don't have a local dealer, we can supply these parts. You can contact us via our website at www.chimneysweeponline.com or call us toll-free at 888-354-6722, weekdays 9-5 Pacific Time.

 

[Highbeam]

The UL label, non-arched door and brass accents indicate this is a 1990 model. This stove had a mild steel baffle (hence the dramatic burnout) with a loose ceramic blanket laying on top.

To bring this critter back to life, you'll need:

A set of side rails (these support the baffle)

A new baffle (the current stainless steel baffle will fit)

A blanket insulation kit ( includes the baffle blanket, side blankets which go above the side rails and a baffle gasket )

If you don't have a local dealer, we can supply these parts. You can contact us via our website at www.chimneysweeponline.com or call us toll-free at 888-354-6722, weekdays 9-5 Pacific Time.

Welcome back Tom!

 

[thechimneysweep]

Thanks, Highbeam. I still stop by on occasion, but you guys have gotten so good at handling people's questions I seldom post these days.

 

[tlc1976]

The UL label, non-arched door and brass accents indicate this is a 1990 model. This stove had a mild steel baffle (hence the dramatic burnout) with a loose ceramic blanket laying on top.

To bring this critter back to life, you'll need:

A set of side rails (these support the baffle)

A new baffle (the current stainless steel baffle will fit)

A blanket insulation kit ( includes the baffle blanket you'll need if you make your own baffle, side blankets which go above the side rails and a baffle gasket )

If you don't have a local dealer, we can supply these parts. You can contact us via our website at www.chimneysweeponline.com or call us toll-free at 888-354-6722, weekdays 9-5 Pacific Time.

Thanks for the info. Wonder why the tag says manufactured July 1993?

Sometime this summer I'll either buy or make new parts. Can't hurt the old baffle, I'll cut it open to see if there's any deflectors or anything in it.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the info. Wonder why the tag says manufactured July 1993?

Sometime this summer I'll either buy or make new parts. Can't hurt the old baffle, I'll cut it open to see if there's any deflectors or anything in it.

That baffle is shot. Given that this had the old steel baffle instead of the newer stainless version it looks like the hole was created by continuing to burn when the baffle was failing and not intentionally cut out.

 

[thechimneysweep]

Wonder why the tag says manufactured July 1993?

The punched-out date on the UL label is the date of manufacture. These old eyes couldn't make that out in the photo you submitted. I referred to your stove as a 1990 model because the UL label says it was built to the July 1, 1990 EPA Phase II standard. All Super 27's built after that date will accommodate the current stainless baffle and side rails.

 

[tlc1976]

That baffle is shot. Given that this had the old steel baffle instead of the newer stainless version it looks like the hole was created by continuing to burn when the baffle was failing and not intentionally cut out.

The seller told me he took a cutting torch to it, to attempt to make it breathe better and fit more wood in it. So I'm thinking the baffle was already sagging, and it made it worse after cutting the hole since the center strength was now gone.

 

[begreen]

SMH, there is a fool born every minute.