Painted the stove wrong :(

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Yamaha_gurl

Member
Hearth Supporter
Aug 31, 2008
205
Ontairo
I picked up some rustoleum brush on high temp stove paint, slapped it on the stove, waited 24 hours and saw that it wasn't fully dry, but meh...still decided to slap another coat on. Bf comes home and sees it, says "did you stir it really good?" I said yes, but honestly...I just kinda shook it :red: Since then I stirred it and can see why it needed it...all the "goo" was on the bottom. Also I was at Home Hardware today and decided to pick up some flat paint instead of the shiney. So what should I do? Wait a couple days and paint over it with the flat or maybe try some varsol on it to remove then paint with the flat?

Thanks all, you've been SO much help! :)
 
I think if you didn't stir the paint all you did is brush the thinner on with out much pigment . I think you could just paint it with the flat after it cures .
 
The paints I have used recommend only 1 coat. So I would suggest burning the stove first to burn off some of the volatiles that are going to get trapped in the paint if you immediately put a 3rd coat on. Let it cool, then go at it with your new paint.

pen
 
Stove is in the garage, not yet installed....I really don't wanna fire it up, that's a waste of wood...hahahaha.
 
Yamaha_gurl said:
Stove is in the garage, not yet installed....I really don't wanna fire it up, that's a waste of wood...hahahaha.

Ahh, it all is so clear now.

Well, if that is the case, and if I was in this situation, I would give it several days to make sure that the old coats dried as thoroughly as possible. Then, paint as you wanted with the new stuff.

At this point you are obligated! And in a worst case scenario, you will have to repaint after you install and burn a few times if it doesn't come out correctly.

With my paint situation. I used satin paint and even with good mixing habits, I had some uneveness initially. After about 2-3 good evening burns of the stove, the paint evened out in finish quality nicely.

pen
 
Several days?! It's gonna get cold here in Canada...lol, I WAS hoping the bf could install on Saturday, guess I'll have to wait :(
 
Yamaha_gurl said:
Several days?! It's gonna get cold here in Canada...lol, I WAS hoping the bf could install on Saturday, guess I'll have to wait :(

Well, just saying what I would do! Not saying it is the Book of John or anything.

You do what you need to do for your situation! With paint, you can always correct later! Or in a worse case scenario, next spring when things warm up!

pen
 
pen said:
The paints I have used recommend only 1 coat. So I would suggest burning the stove first to burn off some of the volatiles that are going to get trapped in the paint if you immediately put a 3rd coat on. Let it cool, then go at it with your new paint.

pen

+1 for that. It's going to use some wood, but you may at least be able to make a small 'warming' fire. Cold will affect how fast the paint dries, too...depending on the temp in the garage. I'd also recommend sticking a couple lengths of stove pipe in it and lighting at least one full blown fire while it's outside if at all possible - or lighting it off inside while it's warm enough to open windows. All that paint baking off is going to make a ton of fumes...not something you'd want inside for hours on end.
 
I recommend reading the label first. If the garage is not heated then it may be too cold for the paint to set up correctly. Usually it has to be applied at above 50 deg temps.
 
I used "RUST-OLEUM" on mine as well but the spray type. I had a cleaned the glass with "Easy Off Oven Cleaner" and it had stained the door, there was also a spot on the top of the stove which had been damaged by a water kettle I wanted to cover. I masked the glass and other area's I didn't want painted then gave it a coat according to directions, waited an hour and gave it another coat. I let it dry for 24 hours after which it still felt tacky, I still had lots of paint and the masking was still in place so I gave it another application. After another 24 hours I lit a fire in it, it was still tacky but I was getting impatient by this time. It did smell a bit but wasn't terrible and it was still mild so I had the windows open. The end result was the stove looks like brand new and I had paint left over to give my fireplace tools a touch up. I got the paint from Aclands, they didn't have it in stock but got it in overnight, was less than $10.00 a can, well worth it.
 
If this were my stove, I'd remove all the paint either by chemical or mechanical means, clean the stove well by wiping it down, and then spray with black, flat, high temperature stove paint.

This, in my humble opinion, is the only way I'd get the results I was looking for.
 
I agree with ansehnlich1, you have it in the garage still. I would think that if you installed it and started burning and it really bubbled or faded you would have much more work to do by uninstalling it again and repainting. Do it right the first time in this situiation.
 
Adirondackwoodburner said:
I agree with ansehnlich1, you have it in the garage still. I would think that if you installed it and started burning and it really bubbled or faded you would have much more work to do by uninstalling it again and repainting. Do it right the first time in this situiation.

So do you suggest I take some sandpaper to it? Or maybe mineral spirits? I am indeed going to light it up outside! 100% Just want to do it when the stove is complete :)
 
If I were you, I'd tell that good for nuthin' boyfriend of yours to come over and take care of it. Then when something goes wrong you can blame HIM. :-)
 
Hahaha, well I'm currently a stay at home cat sitter, so I'm trying to take care of things while he is at work...lol. And I love doing things like that, I get kicks of being able to do "man" things, as you can see in my avatar pic :coolsmile:
 
THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH YOU IS YOU RIDE YAMAHA :)
 
Adirondackwoodburner said:
THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH YOU IS YOU RIDE YAMAHA :)

Actually the bike in the pic is a Kawasaki...lol, I used to ride Yamaha :)
 
go HONDA!
 
Adirondackwoodburner said:
go HONDA!

Never had a honda bike, but I do have a honda accord....you ride?
 
You need to get your knee down. Look through the corner and more weight shift.
I would strip it. The last thing you want to do is install it after a repaint and have it bubble or something. Easier to do in the garage than in the house.

Is that pic at Shannoville?
 
d.n.f. said:
You need to get your knee down. Look through the corner and more weight shift.
I would strip it. The last thing you want to do is install it after a repaint and have it bubble or something. Easier to do in the garage than in the house.

Is that pic at Shannoville?

I get my knee down all the time, just don't have a good pic of it...I swear my pucks are ripped ;) Pic is at Cayuga, just before the wall...with the big bump.

What should I use to strip it? Just any chemical paint stipper? Can't I just sand it? I looked at it and it's dry now.
 
I just painted a stove . Too many coats equals a lot of bubbling and peeling off. Also huge amounts of stink and smoke while curing. You must strip it and do only one coat. If you do it more it will probably bubble. Also the satin will turn flat when you get it hot. It will not stay satin unless there are cooler parts of the stove. With 2 coats ours filled the entire house with smoke. Parts on the top bubbled and had to be redone. I used Rustoleum also.
 
I believe ya. Never raced Cayuga. Shannonville and Mosport were my Onterrible racing digs.
Chemical strippers usually require mechanical finishing. They can work really well sometimes, other times not so much. Wire wheel (brass) and/or sandblaster would be my choice. You want something softer than the steel. Sandblasting would be the best choice I think. If you do strip it, it needs to be coated asap. Otherwise it will rust faster than you think.
 
If it looks good enough now, call it done.

Anything happens condemn the paint.
 
Would a palm sander work as well?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.