Pass pipe above a window possible?

[JcyoungPA]

Thank you for your assistance! My wife would like me to install our wood stove in this Center space where the tile floor is. But the chimney outside is to the right corner of this room. I was thinking it might be possible to pass through the wall up high and then take a 90° turn over to the masonry chimney. It would have to go above the window with class a stove pipe. Any feedback about that? Backup option is against the white wall.

Once located, I will have to cut through the masonry chimney and insert a liner. I thought it might be easier to deal with it on the outside rather than through the wall

 

[Whitenuckler]

Have you considered going straight up in another area of the room on the interior?
Is this a one level with basement? How big is that room? Is is open to the rest of the1st floor?
That way the chimney can all be new, and whatever size you need.
You will need to be careful on on your stove selection so you don't get the room too hot.

 

[begreen]

That plan will not work. From the wall to outdoors all piping must be class A chimney pipe. 90º turns (and elbows) are not permitted in chimney pipe. Also, it's best to keep 90º elbows and horizontal runs to a minimum if at all possible. The backup plan is better. Is there an 6", insulated liner in the block chimney?

 

[bholler]

Thank you for your assistance! My wife would like me to install our wood stove in this Center space where the tile floor is. But the chimney outside is to the right corner of this room. I was thinking it might be possible to pass through the wall up high and then take a 90° turn over to the masonry chimney. It would have to go above the window with class a stove pipe. Any feedback about that? Backup option is against the white wall.

Once located, I will have to cut through the masonry chimney and insert a liner. I thought it might be easier to deal with it on the outside rather than through the wall

View attachment 339909 View attachment 339910

As others have said. Nope not an option

 

[JcyoungPA]

That plan will not work. From the wall to outdoors all piping must be class A chimney pipe. 90º turns (and elbows) are not permitted in chimney pipe. Also, it's best to keep 90º elbows and horizontal runs to a minimum if at all possible. The backup plan is better. Is there an 6", insulated liner in the block chimney?

So main answer is to move it next to the chimney and grind through, add a liner and continue up to the roof.
Second answer was try going through the ceiling to the 2nd floor, then through ceiling into the attic room, thru that ceiling out onto the roof.

To answer beGreen: The masonry is empty inside and ends in the attic that was built later. I thought I could bring the insulated liner up and transition to go through the roof. If necessary, use class A pipe between the liner and the roof transition...

 

[begreen]

To answer beGreen: The masonry is empty inside and ends in the attic that was built later. I thought I could bring the insulated liner up and transition to go through the roof. If necessary, use class A pipe between the liner and the roof transition...

That may be a possibility, if the stove pipe entering the chimney has a proper thimble to maintain clearances and there is sufficient safe clearance from the stove pipe to the wall and ceiling.

If it were me, I'd be considering the removal of the old chimney block and putting in a new metal chimney. That may open up more possibilities for location.

 

[Rickb]

If the masonry chimney ends inside the attic I dont think you can just line it either. How would you do that. Liner inside up to the attic then transition somehow to Class A in the attic through the roof? Or would you then do Class A inside the masonry to a thimble of somekind at the stove pipe level and use a roof support box to hold it all up?

 

[bholler]

If the masonry chimney ends inside the attic I dont think you can just line it either. How would you do that. Liner inside up to the attic then transition somehow to Class A in the attic through the roof? Or would you then do Class A inside the masonry to a thimble of somekind at the stove pipe level and use a roof support box to hold it all up?

It can absolutely be done. But in this case I dont see that its worth the trouble.