Passed Inspectionx

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MTY

Feeling the Heat
Jan 9, 2019
499
Idaho
For electric, mechanical, plumbing, and framing last week. Sheetrock was delivered this morning as the insulation company was working away. R23 walls and R60 in the ceiling. I have to get the ceiling rock up so they can blow that. This may actually be a house someday.
The only thing I was called on was a new requirement for smoke detectors. They all have to be tied together so that if one goes off they all do. I was required to have 5. Burnt toast will be a five alarm fire.
It took me about two weeks of a day here and a day there to wire the place. Right at 2500' of 12/2, 300' of 12/3, and various amounts of 10, 8 and 6.
POCO is supposed to be out in the morning to set up an appointment for cutting from the temp power to permanent.
 
If the detectors are placed correctly you should have very few false alarms . . . that said . . . I highly recommend folks considering purchasing smoke detectors consider models with a "hush" button that can turn off the detector for 5 minutes in the event of a false alarm (and then after 5 minutes it automatically turns itself back on thereby preventing folks from pulling the battery or disconnecting the alarm and then forgetting to put it back into service.)
 
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Congratulations on passing inspection. If you are doing a lot yourself it can be a challenge. It is also good you are running 12/3 instead of 14/3 for lights and smoke. I know some contractors that do that but you never know when you want to run something else off one of those circuits. I ran smoke wires for my 1983 house just for piece of mind. I added an outlet on that circuit that I will use for a wireless router. If my smoke circuit trips then I will know faster. Are you required to do a blower door test?
 
R23 in the walls? that seems pretty low to me up hear you see nothing less than R40. and i think the building code went up in the last 2 years. Darn places are so airtight now one person gets sick they all do..LOL
 
I've always heard that it's good for smoke detectors to not be linked, so you know where the fire is at.
 
That would make sense, but then there is the gov. issue- always short sighted. So if they all have to be tied together then you need a monitor panel to tell which one is actually activated. It is alot simpler now days as you can have the information sent to your personal electronic communication devise via Blue tooth or WI FI or Cloud ect. except if your like me and none of that exsists in a reliable fashion in my area.
 
R23 in the walls? that seems pretty low to me up hear you see nothing less than R40. and i think the building code went up in the last 2 years. Darn places are so airtight now one person gets sick they all do..LOL
39 in the ceiling is code here. 40 in a wall would require a wall stud greater than 2X6.
 
Isn't 2x6 walls R-21 max? Unless you're doing something besides fiberglass?
 
not necessarily.. when the code changed up here it was just a matter of spacing out the wall studs and adding 1/2 strapping to the wall along the horizontal.. did not really make sense to me looking at it especially when the did not have a door frame that was the same dimensions..
 
My smokes were powered 110VAC and wired together. I believe 3 wire between them 2 power and 1 sense. Standard stuff at HD. They have 9V battery to work with out power.
 
I've always heard that it's good for smoke detectors to not be linked, so you know where the fire is at.

I just installed a new set about a year ago that are linked. They are individually named during setup so when they go off you hear an announcement of which room initiated the alarm.
 
I've always heard that it's good for smoke detectors to not be linked, so you know where the fire is at.

I would strongly disagree with that statement, all you need to know if the alarms are going off is to get out and call the fire department, they'll figure out where the fire is. What is the fire starts and the far end of the house? If you are sleeping soundly, you may not hear that one alarm going off.
 
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