Patching into masonry chimney. Questions.

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Jonk

New Member
Nov 28, 2016
2
Scappoose OR
Howdy folks,

First post here. Lots of great info I'm seeing already.

I'm running 6 inch single wall pipe into a Masonry Chimney. I have pictures below of the spot that I would love to have some advice on. It's where the 6 inch single wall pipe goes into a clay thimble which is inside the wall of the Masonry chimney.

I'm wondering first, if someone can point me in the right direction for the codes here. The closest information I've found concerning my situation are city of Portland DEQ information (45 minutes from me, and in a different county. I'm in Columbia County, OR) and Columbia County saying to reference the International Builders Code.
I'm looking for the exact information concerning how close combustibles can be to the clay thimble and the single wall pipe that goes into it.

What I have cut out so far I'm fairly sure is not enough, but I'm wondering if I can make this safe and meet code by using some double or triple wall pipe going into the clay thimble. Is this even possible? Anybody have an idea about where to look for an adapter? This chimney is covered by two layers of wood, and one layer of drywall (on the top floor) where I'm patching in.

Second concern is the amount of either creosote or diesel oil residue inside the chimney. All the pics are progressively getting closer to the thimble and the last pic with the spider webs is up the chimney. The last use of this masonry chimney was to vent a diesel oil powered heating unit. I guess I'm looking for advice concerning a good cleaning tool or some sort of lining/insert that doesn't break the bank.
 

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Well for starters if using just clay and stove pipe you need 12" of solid masonry surrounding that crock. The right way to do it is with an insulated wall passthru. But I also see that that wood is in contact with the outside of the chimney. This does not meet code you need 1" of space if the chimney is external and 2" if it is internal. To fix that you will need an insulated liner.
 
Are we talking flexible liner like this?
Yes but you would need to add a ul listed insulation to that liner.

Clearing 12 inches above and below the crock isn't a problem. If I go 12 inches to one side or another though, I'm running into studs in the wall. Oy.
That is why we use the insulated thimbles.
 
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