PE Summit baffle close up & personal.

[thechimneysweep]

Hogman,

The haze could be microscratches; I've seen these result from repeated cleaning with wood ashes or steel wool. They don't show until there's lots of them, so the hazing appears over time.

Since you say you clean the glass with a wet rag, it could also be hard water deposits, like you get in a teapot. Minerals are in the water, the water evaporates, and the minerals leave a whitish haze. This happens with gas stoves & fireplaces a lot, as the viewing window tends to steam up at lightoff until the moisture cooks away.

If it is hard water deposits, try some gas stove glass cleaner. This stuff looks and works like metal polish: you goob it on a rag, then polish the buildup off with considerable elbow grease. Get it at your local hearth product shop, hardware store or home improvement center.

If it is microscratches, check out www.onedayglass.com for a new piece of Neoceram.

The 3-pack is in the mail.

 

[Hogwildz]

Chit hog, don't see how your glass could get buggered up like that. I clean mine hot and nothing has happened...hot enough to make the water sizzle. I just use a damp paper towel, no cleaner of any kind.

Is there a possiblilty the rag had some dirt/grit on it? Chemical? Ink or dye if a colored rag? I'm reaching for straws here...I know.

Could the steel wool be the culprit?

Good luck

Don't think so bro. I use white wash cloths, although they ain't white when I am donw with them. Don't think it makes the OL very happy, but I bought em, I'll wreck em
Unless I used a paper towl with one of those colored dye pictures on it.
No problems all last year or 1/2 of this year. Same process every time. The steel wool test was after the fact.
If I can't get it clean, I'll just replace the glass next spring. Gonna try B.B.'s suggestion first. Almost tempted to see if I can buff it out with a buffer LOL.

 

[Hogwildz]

Hogman,

The haze could be microscratches; I've seen these result from repeated cleaning with wood ashes or steel wool. They don't show until there's lots of them, so the hazing appears over time.

Since you say you clean the glass with a wet rag, it could also be hard water deposits, like you get in a teapot. Minerals are in the water, the water evaporates, and the minerals leave a whitish haze. This happens with gas stoves & fireplaces a lot, as the viewing window tends to steam up at lightoff until the moisture cooks away.

If it is hard water deposits, try some gas stove glass cleaner. This stuff looks and works like metal polish: you goob it on a rag, then polish the buildup off with considerable elbow grease. Get it at your local hearth product shop, hardware store or home improvement center.

If it is microscratches, check out www.onedayglass.com for a new piece of Neoceram.

The 3-pack is in the mail.

Damn your on the ball man!
You rock my Summit selling brotha!
I do have high iron content in the water. I'll give that polish a try also. I think I been using Imperial stove glass cleaner. Its a clear liquid that you pump spray, and personally, I think it sucks. It leaves a skim on the glass and clouds up. If/when I do the glass if needed, I'll be calling ya for the 7/8" door gasket as well as a glass gasket. Although the 1" gasket is def keeping it tight Sucker is grooved a good 1/2" on the hinge side LOL.
I noticed the glass is tinted? Or looks tinted. And at close look, its got a pattern in it, almost like a micro grid. Is that normal? And could I have possibly scratched the tint or a coating on it?
One more question Tom, do you by chance have the glass specs L x W & thickness on file? I can't seem to find it in the manual. I'd like to write it in there for future use.

Can't wait to get the Englander , then fire it & the Summit up. I have to admit, that Equinox is really calling my name though LOL. Thats one big motha, and looks nice.
Is that non cat?

 

[iceman]

Hogman,

The haze could be microscratches; I've seen these result from repeated cleaning with wood ashes or steel wool. They don't show until there's lots of them, so the hazing appears over time.

Since you say you clean the glass with a wet rag, it could also be hard water deposits, like you get in a teapot. Minerals are in the water, the water evaporates, and the minerals leave a whitish haze. This happens with gas stoves & fireplaces a lot, as the viewing window tends to steam up at lightoff until the moisture cooks away.

If it is hard water deposits, try some gas stove glass cleaner. This stuff looks and works like metal polish: you goob it on a rag, then polish the buildup off with considerable elbow grease. Get it at your local hearth product shop, hardware store or home improvement center.

If it is microscratches, check out www.onedayglass.com for a new piece of Neoceram.

The 3-pack is in the mail.

chimmnesweep do newer summits have holes in the back... i coulda sworn mine did but i guess i am wrong... also have you heard of the pin holes not being properly placed before Hogs?

 

[Hogwildz]

Hogz,

got a picture of the underside of your baffle??

Wxman, I'll get a photo of the underside in the next few days when low.

 

[Woodrat]

Most hobby shops should have jeweler's rouge. If you cleaned it hot that is most likely baked on glass cleaner.

Didn't use cleaner then, I used a damp rag. I think the coating on the glass is finely scratched. I just don't know. Cleaned it many times lightly while warmish hot last year with no problems. Is there a way that some kind of chemicals from the ends of splits could etch the glass somehow, or is there a coating on the glass that may have etched, burned, or worn off? I even tried 000000 forgot how many <span class="spellchecked_word">0's</<SPAN class=spellchecked_word>sp</SPAN>an> steel wool in a small area and <span class="spellchecked_word">nada</<SPAN class=spellchecked_word>sp</SPAN>an>. Cleaned a tiny bit off, but the haze remained.

\a Never tried it on stove glass, but I've had good results from a product called "">NICSAND" (sp??) can't find the bottle right now. Water -based polishing compound applied with a foam polishing pad chucked into a var. sp. drill. supposed to be the equivalent of something like 10,000 grit paper. I,ve salvaged some badly sandblasted headlights and a couple of windshields with it!. Think I originally got it a Sam's/Costco?? Someone else told me they think it is actually a body/paint shop item

 

[iceman]

hog how do you keep 750 for awhile i can sometimes get there but it doen't last long at all and i usually gotts run it hot until about 600 then close it almost all the way doen and i can get 7-750 for a short while but i def cannot go 4-500 and get it to climb there

 

[thechimneysweep]

Hog, the Equinox is indeed a beast. Our factory rep, who, while not a bigfatboy like me, is no shrimp, actually climbed in the side door and out the front door (although his claim that he got lost inside for awhile might be a slight exaggeration). The Equinox is non-catalytic.

Iceman, I've got a Summit and an Alderlea T6 here now, both of fairly recent vintage, and their baffles don't have holes across the back. Both have a row across the front vertical surface, a row across the front of the underside, and a partial row going front-to-back at the middle of the underside.

We haven't experienced any mis-aligned pin holes, but you've got to realize that Hog's entire firebox flexes about 2" out of square every time he forces his door closed on his self-installed 2" round titanium gasket.

 

[iceman]

Hog, the Equinox is indeed a beast. Our factory rep, who, while not a bigfatboy like me, is no shrimp, actually climbed in the side door and out the front door (although his claim that he got lost inside for awhile might be a slight exaggeration). The Equinox is non-catalytic.

Iceman, I've got a Summit and an Alderlea T6 here now, both of fairly recent vintage, and their baffles don't have holes across the back. Both have a row across the front vertical surface, a row across the front of the underside, and a partial row going front-to-back at the middle of the underside.

We haven't experienced any mis-aligned pin holes, but you've got to realize that Hog's entire firebox flexes about 2" out of square every time he forces his door closed on his self-installed 2" round titanium gasket.

lol...lmao that is funny so all of the secondary in the back and no holes eh...wow did i blow that one

 

[Hogwildz]

hog how do you keep 750 for awhile i can sometimes get there but it doen't last long at all and i usually gotts run it hot until about 600 then close it almost all the way doen and i can get 7-750 for a short while but i def cannot go 4-500 and get it to climb there

Ice, pack her full first off. 3 large to cover bottom, fill in the top with mediums and then smalls if needed.
This is how I achieve high temps:
I usually get 3 large on bottom, with 4 or 5 mediums on top depending on how well they fit. Let the air wide open until the wood is blazing and charred real well, temp will be anywhere from 350/400 or so to 500/550. The I shut the air down completely. Mega secondary at this point. She does the rest. She will climb to 600-650 over the course of maybe 20 ,ins to 1/2 hr tops, then to 700-750 in another 1/2 hr to hour maybe. Usually the whole process in about 2 hours give or take a half hour. I never really timed it. It will level at about 750 sometimes a tad higher if the top pcs or wntire load is smaller sizes. It will go this way I'd say for at least a couple hours. I will have to time it all one night this week. The she will slowly lower to about 600-650 for another 2 or 3 hrs, then slowly drop down. Usually levels at 500-500 for a while, then 400, then down further & further. Like I said , I'll have to time it when I am around and not occupied doing tons of stuff.
Last night I fired her up from cold at about 6:00, she was up to 400 by 6:45ish, I cut the air back, we went to dinner, came home a couple hours later, 700-750 range.
Temp at start up 67 degrees, temp when we left, 68, temp when we got home 72. Its damn 79 right noe tonight and I am in cloths & sweating. Time for shorts only
When I get a good day to do it, I'll try and chronologically time it and take notes. And if possible and my forgetfulness don't kick in, I'll try and take hourly photos.
Asking my limited focus mind to handle that is yet another story.
I am sure wood type, dryness, chimney height & draft all play a part. I have 27' of chimney, lower 5' s.s. flex, rest s.s. insulated double wall inside a masonry interior chimney. Well Used to be exterior, doing addition which is now making it interior. Right now the addition is unconditioned space, but does have very good passive solar and with no heat nothing freezes in there. Needless to say it drafts very well. I am sure there is no set way. And location, set up, wood etc all play a role.
Now keep in mind, ibelwo 20 and in single digits, especially when windy, these times are shortened. but I still reach the same temps. I have already shut her back at 3509, and it takes a bit longer, but she finds her way to the 700-750 range, then same pattern down. Before door was adjusted, the thermo pegged the high end every time. Thats a bit much for me. Never cherry red or glowing or such. Still wouldn't run her there on purpose. Just not comfortable doing that. It is after a a space heater, which with my home set up, I am lucky that it happens to almost all the main house.

 

[Hogwildz]

Hog, the Equinox is indeed a beast. Our factory rep, who, while not a bigfatboy like me, is no shrimp, actually climbed in the side door and out the front door (although his claim that he got lost inside for awhile might be a slight exaggeration). The Equinox is non-catalytic.

Iceman, I've got a Summit and an Alderlea T6 here now, both of fairly recent vintage, and their baffles don't have holes across the back. Both have a row across the front vertical surface, a row across the front of the underside, and a partial row going front-to-back at the middle of the underside.

We haven't experienced any mis-aligned pin holes, but you've got to realize that Hog's entire firebox flexes about 2" out of square every time he forces his door closed on his self-installed 2" round titanium gasket.

Hey now!! Its 1" gold impregnated, get it right!
If someone would have sent me the 7/8" instead of a 5/8 and 3/4 I might have sufficed with that. LOL J/K
Thats why I bought a stove that was Neanderthal proof.
Surely you jest when saying the guy crawled through that thing? Better get a photos next time.
Its a really gorgeous & massive stove though. Tha much soap stone is that much more beauty. & heat no less.

I think I had the stoner guy assemble my stove. ;(