PE summit flue temps

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Potatoe

Member
Nov 22, 2018
17
Nova Scotia
Hi, I have switched from a HT2000 to a PE summit this year. I have thermocouples for STT and Flue temps. I’m curious if anyone has any data for a summit. I’ve searched and found some old threads. My old stove when settled in the STT were always 100F+ above stack. With the summit my flue temps are always higher. It heats fine. Just doesn’t seem to come down on the flue temps. Looking for any thoughts. Stove is brand new this season. I can hear EBT moving. Door is tight. No ash pan. Currently 750 stack/650 STT

Yellow is stack/blue stt
Stt is actually about 100-150F higher in the hottest position usually
[Hearth.com] PE summit flue temps [Hearth.com] PE summit flue temps
 
I have a older series A summit. Mine runs exactly the same way. The only way I can keep the stack temp lower is if I babysit the stove and turn the air down early, but then I don’t get a peak STT above 550ish.
 
I don't have a thermograph, but I posted recent flue temps on this thread, but just of startup. Your flue temps seem a bit high relative to the stovetop temp. Maybe too much air to the fire? Once cruising our stove's stovetop temp is close to the same as the stack temp.

Curious about why the change from the HT2000? That's a good stove. It would be interesting to hear your comparison between the two at the end of the season.
 
Sorry I forgot to mention. Stove is completely shut down of primary air. I agree the HT2000 is a great stove. For me it was too much of a heater for the house design. The room it’s in is quite large but not open enough to move the heat. I found the aggressive heat output with high STT 800-850+ too much for my needs. I also found it somewhat unpredictable. I love the PE up to this point. Very controllable and nice subtle heat output. Just like to get this high stack temp figured out.
 
How tall is the flue system on the stove from stovetop to chimney cap? Is the flue system straight up, or through the wall?

PS: looks like it's time to update the signature line with the new stove.

PPS: Is this a Summit LE?
 
That should work well. Are you in a very windy area? How cold is it outside?
 
I am in quite a windy area but even on calm days the stack temps are still excessive. Currently mild out -5C.
 
I have a older series A summit. Mine runs exactly the same way. The only way I can keep the stack temp lower is if I babysit the stove and turn the air down early, but then I don’t get a peak STT above 550ish.

Same here. Older A series model. Flue temps run hot. If I'm not careful on fresh reload and air wide open, flue temps run away VERY fast, as in I need to be there 100% of the time for the first 20 minutes to start shutting down the second the load fully catches. Actually sort of a a pain in the neck, but I've got it figured out pretty good by now. Once secondaries are going, the flue definitely runs hot. I could probably get away with cleaning my chimney once every 10 years lol (Don't ask me why I do it twice a year to get a 1/4 cup of dust)

I've always said to myself that the hole positioning on the baffle seemed to be a little too far forward. The furthest forward row of secondaries wrap around the top of the baffle and throw serious heat up the flue. I figured if they were positioned 4" further back, it would keep that row of secondaries more in the fire box.
 
Ya I have to agree on the baffle design. I think it should possibly be longer aswell to cover more area above the fire. Only allowing a narrow section for the flue gases to escape.
 
Ya I have to agree on the baffle design. I think it should possibly be longer aswell to cover more area above the fire. Only allowing a narrow section for the flue gases to escape.
Sounds like a recipe for smoke spillage. You might try taping off the boost air to see what effect that has on the flue temp. Should be a tiny hole front and center underneath. Also, do you keep a good ash bed under the fire?
 
I have had the hole taped over for a couple months now. No noticeable improvement. Also have a good bed of ashes aswell.
 
I guess some of the temp differences reported will be due to where and how the temps are taken. In Potatoe's case, comparing different stoves will be a variable when taking stove top temps, and actual temps in the firebox might tell a different story. On my SIL's T5, if the startup on a new load gets a bit too much wood gassing, I might see 700+ on the stove top right in front of the flue exit, and pushing 500 on the surface flue meter about 15" up, so maybe about 1000 internal..? If I have a more toned-down burn going, maybe 650 stove top and 300 on the flue meter, so temps about equal.
Actually sort of a a pain in the neck...(Don't ask me why I do it twice a year to get a 1/4 cup of dust)
I've always said to myself that the hole positioning on the baffle seemed to be a little too far forward. The furthest forward row of secondaries wrap around the top of the baffle and throw serious heat up the flue
Yeah, you have to stay on top of it to make sure you don't get too much wood gassing. I think my SIL isn't yet where I am, in the ability to visually assess the burn, even with me coaching her. I don't know how a new buyer with no experience and no coaching can quickly get up to speed on how to run the stove. But they might have more than the half-dozen brain cells that I'm attempting to function on..that would be an advantage. ;lol
Sounds like a recipe for smoke spillage. You might try taping off the boost air to see what effect that has on the flue temp.
I have had the hole taped over for a couple months now. No noticeable improvement
Yeah, smoke spillage in warmer weather might be an issue with that.
I thought of testing blockage of the boost air hole with a bolt dropped into it or something, but then thought that it would feed more air to the baffle, making secondaries even hotter.
"Potatoe"...heheh. https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/64689/never-forget-time-dan-quayle-misspelled-potato
 
On my SIL's T5, if the startup on a new load gets a bit too much wood gassing, I might see 700+ on the stove top right in front of the flue exit, and pushing 500 on the surface flue meter about 15" up, so maybe about 1000 internal..?
That's not the stove. That's the operator not closing the air down soon enough.
Yeah, smoke spillage in warmer weather might be an issue with that.
It should have no effect on smoke spillage.
 
That's not the stove. That's the operator not closing the air down soon enough.
Right, that's why I said you have to stay on top of it.
It should have no effect on smoke spillage.
No, I was agreeing with your response to Potatoe's idea that "baffle should be longer, exhaust exit narrower." Not that plugging the boost hole would have an effect on spillage..sorry I didn't make that clear.
 
It’s possible for sure there would be some additional spillage. I’m just basing it off the HT2000 where the baffle is significantly larger. Seems to hold more heat out of the stack. I understand there’s no comparison between stoves with vastly different secondary designs.
 
Hi, I have switched from a HT2000 to a PE summit this year. I have thermocouples for STT and Flue temps. I’m curious if anyone has any data for a summit. I’ve searched and found some old threads. My old stove when settled in the STT were always 100F+ above stack. With the summit my flue temps are always higher. It heats fine. Just doesn’t seem to come down on the flue temps. Looking for any thoughts. Stove is brand new this season. I can hear EBT moving. Door is tight. No ash pan. Currently 750 stack/650 STT

Yellow is stack/blue stt
Stt is actually about 100-150F higher in the hottest position usually
View attachment 255545 View attachment 255546
Just installed the PE Summit LE. I not sure of the term you are using, I have magnetic stove top thermometer right beside the flue that easily reach the 500-600 but my internal stove pipe(double wall) reads only 400. Stove put out lot of heat but easy to control output.