PE Summit Possible Overfire Problem

[Zzyk]

I think I might be running my new PE Summit too hot, but I'm not sure. I've never used a new EPA stove before and I'm a bit confused. I can get a decent fire going, maybe half a load or a bit less on top of the coals. I keep the air high until the flue temp hits 400-500 and the wood chars nicely. Then I start cutting back the air and the problems begin... The stovetop temperature starts rising and, even with the air all the way down, will hit 800+. At the same time the flue temp drops down. I'm worried about really loading the stove since there seems to be no way to slow it down once it takes off. I could cut the are back earlier, but then I'd be concerned about creosote (I've always run a hot flue, 400-500 doesn't even seem hot enough to me).

Anyway any advice is greatly appreciated

Chris

 

[begreen]

You're doing ok, the stove is tough and likes to heat. You might try using larger splits and cutting the air back a little earlier. The stove will get hot as the wood outgases and secondaries take off, but with a little experimenting, you should be able to drop the surface temps about 100 degrees. Here's a recent run in our T6 that graphs stack and stove top temps. The Summit is the same stove at heart.

As far as creosote goes, if you are burning dry wood in an EPA stove with 400-500 stack temps, you are going to be surprised how clean your stack is.

 

[iceman]

mine has hit 800 couple of times sounds like you got really good draft
do the dollar bill test around the door... if everything checks out burn that baby

 

[Zzyk]

Thanks for the advice. Will do the dollar bill test tomorrow when the stove is cold. I just loaded 3 small splits to keep it going and it pinned the thermometer... Ouch!

I have a wicked draft here. The chimney is exterior block chimney, 36 foot from ground to top, with a 6 inch SS insulated liner. Maybe too much draft? Would a pipe damper help? I had one with my old stove, but read somewhere you shouldn't use them with the new stoves so I didn't put one in this time.

Thanks again

 

[karl]

Let the pros answer this one for use, but I think 36 feet would be a canidate for a damper. They say don't use them on EPA stove's because they don't want you choking the stove down with it. You're just trying to get the draft back to normal.

 

[snowtime]

36' is a lot of chimney. A way to keep your temps down a little is do not load it until the coals are just enough to start a fire. Let that puppy cool a little before you load it. On a full load do not wait until everything is charred and the temp has taken off. Just wait until the bottom logs are charred or you are sure they have started burning then cut air to half. Wait just a few minutes and push the lever all the way off. Also using full rounds of the largest size you can fit will help slow the fire.
I am thinking your chimney is ripe for a damper.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the advice. Will do the dollar bill test tomorrow when the stove is cold. I just loaded 3 small splits to keep it going and it pinned the thermometer... Ouch!

I have a wicked draft here. The chimney is exterior block chimney, 36 foot from ground to top, with a 6 inch SS insulated liner. Maybe too much draft? Would a pipe damper help? I had one with my old stove, but read somewhere you shouldn't use them with the new stoves so I didn't put one in this time.

Thanks again

That is the clue we needed. Unfortunately the manual covers the minimum flue height and draft situation well and the maximum hardly at all. Add a damper to the flue and the stove should perform in the more desired range.

 

[Jimbob]

I've noticed on our Summit, I can cut the air back fairly early. Also, how big are your splits?
If I load our stove half full of smaller stuff onto a big bed of coals, I can leave the "air" turned all the way down and it still takes off nice (no smouldering).

Another note: The markings on the ash lip above the air lever don't really co-incide with the actual amount of air let in. If you look up at the underside of your firebox there is a control plate that covers and un-covers a round hole. Set the lever on half and see if half the hole is covered up. On ours most of the hole is still mostly open when the lever is set to half. Setting the lever to about 1/4 on the printed scale covers half the hole. Just something to think about when setting your air control.

 

[Todd]

A 36' insulated 6" liner will suck like a Hoover. Get a pipe damper on that thing.

 

[Zzyk]

Thanks for all the advice. I'll put a damper on it and report back. I tried using very large splits last night and it sort of worked, but not well. I also ended up with a huge coal bed thats still hot now.

 

[Ken45]

You're doing ok, the stove is tough and likes to heat. You might try using larger splits and cutting the air back a little earlier. The stove will get hot as the wood outgases and secondaries take off, but with a little experimenting, you should be able to drop the surface temps about 100 degrees. Here's a recent run in our T6 that graphs stack and stove top temps. The Summit is the same stove at heart.

As far as creosote goes, if you are burning dry wood in an EPA stove with 400-500 stack temps, you are going to be surprised how clean your stack is.

BG,

Do you have the blower running on your stove? Does that affect measured stove temps?

I keep our blower set on low but I never get the high temps your stove gets. 450 is about the max I've seen and that's enough to overheat the house (1800 sq ft) even in 20 degree outside temps.

And three splits took you back up to 700 degrees and kept the house warm for 14 hours? I assume those were BIG splits?

I'm surprised that the stack temps are lower than the stove top temps. It would seem that one needs gasses hotter than the stove top. Can you explain why my logic is wrong?

(BTW, we have double wall connector pipe so I can't measure stack temp unless I punch a hole in the stack and I'm not ready to do that.)

I must be doing something wrong. OTOH, the house is plenty warm (75 minimum). I know I don't let the stove run wide open too long, just enough to get a good secondary burn, then I cut back.

What am I doing wrong?

Ken

 

[Rockey]

I was going to ask the same question about the blower but I am unfamiliar with the PE Summit and not sure if it is even an option. I have an Englander 30 and it will reach 725 without trying with the blower off. With the blower on high it is a real effort to get it about 500.

 

[Zzyk]

I never get the high temps your stove gets. 450 is about the max I've seen and that's enough to overheat the house (1800 sq ft) even in 20 degree outside temps.

Ken

I have the opposite problem. If I push the stack temp to 450 I will pin the stovetop temp when I cut back the air control. Results were a bit better last night with the pipe damper installed, but I couldn't get the stack over 350 (stovetop stayed under 800).

I also don't get the big heat out of this stove... Nothing like either my old stove or my secondary stove. Seems to produce moderate heat and great burn times, but I'm concerned as to what will happen when it actually gets cold.

I must be doing something wrong.

Chris

 

[begreen]

Try the damper. I've had stoves where this completely changes their behavior.