PE T6 vs summit vs. Woodstock PH

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R=.39 is for Durcok NexGen. Screw down the second layer too. The mortar between the Durock layers is not necessary.

Crap. After calling every tile store in town, and also Lowes and HD an hour away, none of them carried or had heard of "next gen" durock. I looked up the R value on the USG/Durock website and it listed the R value of 0.39 for "Durock brand cement board". I've read elsewhere that regular Durock is only R 0.2. Not sure where that came from though. Here's the product info from USG. R value listed on page 3 under "technical data".

http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_...durock-cement-board-system-guide-en-SA932.pdf.
 
Crap. After calling every tile store in town, and also Lowes and HD an hour away, none of them carried or had heard of "next gen" durock. I looked up the R value on the USG/Durock website and it listed the R value of 0.39 for "Durock brand cement board". I've read elsewhere that regular Durock is only R 0.2. Not sure where that came from though. Here's the product info from USG. R value listed on page 3 under "technical data".

http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_...durock-cement-board-system-guide-en-SA932.pdf.

And here's the specific Durock I bought... Durock with Edgeguard: Also lists R value at 0.39 on page 4.

 

And either way... even if the Durock I bought is listed only to an R value of 0.2, I'm using the ash lip on the PH bringing the required R value of the pad down to 0.4. Two layers of either material should be fine, but I was hoping for redundancy.
 
There won't be any precise leveling until you set your tile and even then it's nearly impossible to level with thinset. It doesn't need to be perfect and most of us have shimmed under a stove leg to stop the rocking. A coin works well.

Screw all the layers down. You'll need to be sure the screws for the second layer of durock are long enough to go through the plywood and possibly into the wood below. Myself, after doing it, I'm not a fan of thinset anywhere except under the tile. There are so many screws.
 
We get huge winds here between the gaps of the cascade mountain range and I've never had wind blow down the chimney. The wind usually increases draft. A regular chimney cap should be fine.

Myself, I would always opt for the fully vertical chimney. With a tee on the back you need to pull the stove much farther out on the hearth.

Can anybody with a PH tell us whether they could shove the sooteater into the loading door and up through the bypass and into the top vent? I feel like it would be impossible but surely somebody has tried.

I have tried and it is not possible to bottom clean a PH with a top vented chimney. You'd need to make about a 60 degree bend and still be able to get the soot eater to turn. It might be possible with rear vent but I'd take 4:1 odds against it.
 
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Taken yesterday, just for you Jake. Snow is still coming down heavily in the mountains, but it's spring down here.
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Right back at ya. :) 168 miles this past Saturday . . . I guess the flowers can wait a little longer.
 

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