peavey or cant

[sgcsalsero]

Can someone please recommend a peavey or cant hook, especially one that is good for firewood cutting (no larger than a 24" round). From http://peaveymfg.com/loggingtools.htm, looks there are a few different types to choose from.

Thanks a lot

 

[kevin j]

I prefer the cant hook, with the flat shoe at end instead of the sharp point. But that's just what I have used most.

Northern Tool has a cant with log lifter stand/shoe. DON'T ! The quality is POS, and with the fixed bracket on it, the log you are trying to lift off the ground to cut must roll several degrees. Most logs on the ground to buck up have branches and can't be rolled.

Instead I got a new handle for my dads 50 year old hook and built this pivoting bracket.
Oop's pic is too big, will try and reduce one evening.
It is a flat plate about 4 x 6 on bottom of two upright 1x1 angles, with bolt/pivot through the handle about 6 inches behind the pivot of the hook. I can grab a log, lift it up without roling, and throw some cribbing under it for bucking.

kcj

 

[Eric Johnson]

It depends on what you're trying to do. The annoying thing about the peavey vs. the cant hook is that the peavey has that spike coming out the bottom, which gets in the way if you are trying to roll logs on flat ground or off a pile. It does come in handy prying logs apart, however, which can be useful. The cant hook, by contrast, doesn't dig into the ground when trying to roll a log.

Peaveys are designed basically for log drives in the water, which nobody does anymore. Why they remain popular is kind of mystery to me. Cant hooks are designed to roll logs around in a sawmill.

I think the best setup would be a cant hook and a big pry/breaker bar.

 

[sgcsalsero]

Will be using it to deal with dropped log length (off a grapple truck) and also to prop logs for bucking, thanks.

 

[sgcsalsero]

Instead I got a new handle for my dads 50 year old hook and built this pivoting bracket.
Oop's pic is too big, will try and reduce one evening.
It is a flat plate about 4 x 6 on bottom of two upright 1x1 angles, with bolt/pivot through the handle about 6 inches behind the pivot of the hook. I can grab a log, lift it up without roling, and throw some cribbing under it for bucking.

Interested to see what that looks like, thinking something homemade would be sufficient, only going to use a few times a year. Thanks.

 

[wally]

a few years ago, while cruising i.p. lands in bowmantown, maine, i came across an old logging camp in pittsburg (just across the state line). i believe the area of the camp was known as philipstown or phippstown. anyway, i found two huge piles of worn out peaveys and cant-dogs (just the iron, no wood). i was imagining all the effort involved in wearing out that many hand tools. that's a lot of pulpwood.

wally

 

[Eric Johnson]

Well, they cut a lot of pulpwood in Pittsburg over the years. Some tough old dudes worked in those camps.

 

[kevin j]

I can't get my pics back to .jpg. They were in a word .doc file

can't attach, only accepts image type files....any ideas?

, I will pm you.

 

[kevin j]

maybe this works

 

[kevin j]

seeemd to work.


The plate is 3/16 x 4 x 6. Vertical angles 1x1, 6 inches vertically bottom of plate to center of pivot. Pivot is 4 inches behind the pivot for the hook. 1/2 inch pin for pivot. Doesn't need to be too strong, and don't want it heavy. I tried larger plate, doesn't roll back and forth well, so cut it down to the 4x6. Might cut it smaller yet, say 3 x 6


If I used it a lot, I'd have two, one with, one without, as it gets clunky to use as simple log roller.
Otherwise, works firne for a homeowner cutter.

kcj