Pellets piling up on right side of grate

[marragtop]

I have Whitfield Advantage IIT (circa 1993) pellet stove. It came with my house in 2010, so I don't know the full history, but certainly know the last 13 years. Its been a good stove and I've done all my own maintenance. Recent (last 2 years) maintenance includes: replacing both blowers, door and window gaskets, and low limit exhaust switch. My ongoing problem is that the pellets tend to pile up on the right side (while facing the stove) of the grate. I regularly do full (fire brick removal, disassembly of stacks, etc) cleanings, but I still have the piling up on right side of grate problem. The grate looks fine, and I've even sandblasted it. Soot build up on all the windows is even. In adjusting the damper, it is difficult to push the damper all the way in. I've lubed the rod with little improvement. It seems as if the damper door is binding up (perhaps on residual ash) when trying to push it all the way in. I can get it to the recommeded 2.25 collar inch spec, but can't push it in much further. The rod is fully screwed into the damper thread.

Here's my question(s).. What else should I be checking to address the piling up on the right side issue? Is there a way to clean out any ash that may be constricting the damper movements?

Thanks in adavance for any/all replies.

Mike

 

[hossthehermit]

Better than on the wrong side .............. oops, sorry, just noticed you're new, didn't mean to offend, got some Whitfield people here, they'll be along soon ............

 

[marragtop]

Better than on the wrong side .............. oops, sorry, just noticed you're new, didn't mean to offend, got some Whitfield people here, they'll be along soon ............

I may be new, but I completly understand and agree with your statement!!

 

[Pellet-King]

My 2T I do notice more buildup on the right side, do you have the small ultra grate or the older wide grate?, your pellet's should "dance" in the burnpot the damper is a problem mine will close all the way and the flame will get very lazy, I dont leave it open as they say, mines more like 1" open, as i push it in and pull it out slowly when i see the flame rage and the pellet's dance, more open just looses more heat up the exhaust, You might have to remove your combustion blower housing and look in there and clean it good and make sure the damper isn't blocked with rust or ash

 

[Ranger72]

Which burn pot do you have? There are three: the original with the pot and grate with drilled holes, then the two grates that didn't have a pot that is directly connects to the air inlet. Your damper should move quite freely. Take the bricks out and the service plate and clear out the channel the damper rides in. Also, if you don't have the original burn pot, make sure there are not cracks or openings on the stove floor which would allow the combustion air to navigate around the pot, especially check the bad side. Is your ash pan gasket in good shape?

 

[marragtop]

Thanks for the replies so far. One other important thing to mention... twice over the last couple of weeks, when the grate fills up (on number 1 setting), the stove has shut down (I suspect due to low temperature) and then sometimes the fire re-ignites in the grate. At that point the pellets in the grate burn off without the fans running and fills the room with smoke. I have tested to make sure that the blowers do run for 20 minutes after a normal shutdown. THis is what is giving me the most concern as it is can take a couple of hours to completly clear the smoke out of the room. Thoughts on that would be appreciated.

As to the grate, I have the original one with 14 bars and the drilled holes.

 

[Ranger72]

Ok , second generation burn pot. Have you checked the ash pan gasket?

 

[Lake Girl]

Sounds like you should check out your low limit switch ... remember to unplug your stove! Some have removed switch and found ash collected between switch and burn chamber acting as an insulator making switch function irregularly. You could also try a temporary by-pass to trouble shoot.

http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/replacement_parts_for__advantage.htm $42.00 part

Keep us posted...

 

[Phil Do's fire.]

My old Whit did the same thing, even after renewing just about everything. I found softies deposited less. More of a design flaw. open combustion air to the max helps!

 

[marragtop]

I will check the ash door gasket tonight. As to the limit switch... if you are referring to the LOW LIMIT EXHAUST SENSOR SWITCH, I replaced that 2 years ago. I will pull it and check for ash build up. As to the temporary bypass test, I believe it's just a matter of connecting the 2 wires together so the stove won't shut down at all. Is that correct?

 

[Ranger72]

Yes, if you jump the low limit switch, the stove will only shut down when unplugged.

 

[Lake Girl]

I will check the ash door gasket tonight. As to the limit switch... if you are referring to the LOW LIMIT EXHAUST SENSOR SWITCH, I replaced that 2 years ago. I will pull it and check for ash build up. As to the temporary bypass test, I believe it's just a matter of connecting the 2 wires together so the stove won't shut down at all. Is that correct?

You are correct ... Why did you replace the low limit switch two years ago? Symptoms similar or just as a precaution?

Yes, if you jump the low limit switch, the stove will only shut down when unplugged.

That would be why I said temporary!

 

[Ranger72]

You are correct ... Why did you replace the low limit switch two years ago? Symptoms similar or just as a precaution?




That would be why I said temporary!

I know. I was just answering marragtops question.

 

[marragtop]

Thanks for the continued replies on this. I replaced the low limit switch 2 years ago because the stove was shutting down unexpectantly even when I had a good flame with no clinkers. I'll bypass the switch this weekend to see if there is any difference. I'd also like to fully inspect the damper. To get to the damper once I have the firebricks out, how difficult is it to get the service plate out? Maybe just some 5/16" small screw bolts?

 

[Ranger72]

My stove is a little older, but my service plate is literally just held in place by the brick. Haha

 

[marragtop]

Once that plate is out, is the whole damper fully exposed? Sounds too easy...

 

[Ranger72]

Yep, the damper plate will be completely visible. Haha

 

[SPUD]

The right side (facing stove) exhaust path goes from top to the bottom and across to the damper. Betcha got lots of buildup there.
Mine would burn weak right like yours until cleared up. Two prune danish should clear it up (sorry). Compressed ait and flexible brush.
Ash will also pile up beneath the burnpot, again on the right, if I go too long without cleaning

 

[marragtop]

I removed the firebricks and the left and right vertical baffle plates (I guess that's what they are). I still can't see, much less get to the damper. The areas in back of the 2 baffles and the rear firebrick all appear to be part of the cast iron inside of the stove and therefore not removable. Am I missing something? I need to figure out why the damper is binding up when pushing it in.

 

[Ranger72]

They must have changed something. I have a metal plate underneath the shoot extending left. Hmmm

 

[Ranger72]

Gave her a quick cleaning today. Took some pics to show the difference between the older and newer Advantages. The two large differences are the removable baffles behind the fire bricks and the burnpot, as you can see the larger opening on the stove floor. I plan on upgrading to the newer burn pot set up, not because this style doesn't work, it works great, but simply because once the pot below the grate fills with ash from scraping and burning, the only way to empty it is to shut the stove and remove and empty it. Rant over, on to pics.