Placement question

[reaperman1]

I went ahead and put a telephone deposit on a BK boxer from a dealer about 2.5 hrs away today. I'm not sure when I will actually pick up the stove but it will be a while. At first I was thinking of doing a corner install on the right side of the room photo. Then I got thinking if it were possible to place the boxer in front of this window, the window is 4'x5'. The main reason would be to keep the chimney height on the outside of the house from being less high then it would be with a corner install. The rear clearance on the double walled Boxer is 10". From what I was reading windows arent considered combustable, but the trim work is. The window sits up 2' higher than the floor and the Boxers. overall height is 39" to the top of the flu ridge. With some quick measurements I gain about 1' of inside roof pitch from the corner to the center of the window. And roughly 4' more on the outside roof. The center of the window is about 8' from the corner of the wall looking right at the room photo. I added the outside photo showing the center of the window in conjunction to the roofline vs about 2-3 feet from the edge of the outside wall where a corner install would likely be. I'm open to suggestions whether or not placing the stove in front of the window is a feasible idea, thanks again guys.

 

[EbS-P]

I vote corner. You will have a nice window to look out the other 6-7 months with no big black pipe in the way.

 

[begreen]

I am not correlating the room ceiling peak with the outside view which shows a window far from the peak. If this is the same window inside and out, then can it be to the left of the window (inside view)?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Yeah, that can’t be the same room.

Either way, I’d buy another piece of chimney.

 

[reaperman1]

I am not correlating the room ceiling peak with the outside view which shows a window far from the peak. If this is the same window inside and out, then can it be to the left of the window (inside view)?

The living room is vaulted, however this vault is not the center of the home. I know its kind of misleading in the photos. My rough estimates would put the outside chimney height of a corner install at 10' above the roofline near the edge of the roof. By moving the stove to the center of the window would make the outside chimney around 6'. I realize a corner install would be more practical inside, but 10' of exposed chimney outside would make it a maintenance nightmare. And may also be hard to keep warm enough. BK recommends a 15' chimney, so thats the number I used in my estimates.

 

[EbS-P]

Sweeping from the bottom with a soot eater rotary cleaning tool that attaches to your drill is popular. Many users don’t regularly access the roof.

 

[begreen]

The living room is vaulted, however this vault is not the center of the home. I know its kind of misleading in the photos. My rough estimates would put the outside chimney height of a corner install at 10' above the roofline near the edge of the roof. By moving the stove to the center of the window would make the outside chimney around 6'. I realize a corner install would be more practical inside, but 10' of exposed chimney outside would make it a maintenance nightmare. And may also be hard to keep warm enough. BK recommends a 15' chimney, so thats the number I used in my estimates.

No problem. It is odd, but it is what it is. Can the stove be located to the left of the window in order to shorten the exposed chimney?

 

[begreen]

Sweeping from the bottom with a soot eater rotary cleaning tool that attaches to your drill is popular. Many users don’t regularly access the roof.

Myself included, given deference to the age of the roof and myself, I always bottom-up sweep.

 

[reaperman1]

No problem. It is odd, but it is what it is. Can the stove be located to the left of the window in order to shorten the exposed chimney?

I could only move it over a little bit to the left But as the photo shows there is a island dividing the kitchen/living room. Do you feel 6’ of outside chimney is too much?

 

[begreen]

I could only move it over a little bit to the left But as the photo shows there is a island dividing the kitchen/living room. Do you feel 6’ of outside chimney is too much?

View attachment 298112

I see. 6' is not too much, we have 7'. There needs to be a brace at 5' above the roof exit. In Minnesota, you may also want to have a cricket (snow diverter) installed above the chimney flashing.

 

[reaperman1]

I see. 6' is not too much, we have 7'. There needs to be a brace at 5' above the roof exit. In Minnesota, you may also want to have a cricket (snow diverter) installed above the chimney flashing.

Thank you for your input. I know a stove in the window seems strange. But it would be a rustic view with the snow in the background. Do you feel 10’ would be too much if I did a corner install? I don’t think I would need a cricket. That roofline faces the winter sun which keeps the roof surprisingly clear. The snow never slides down, it drips off.

 

[Riverbanks]

They are offset scissor trusses, scissor to center load bearing wall, I say corner also, sorry

 

[begreen]

10 ft is pushing it. The chimney would need double-bracing. One at 5' and another at 10'. In that case I would do an offset instead. This will take some planning to get a straight shot up through the angled ceiling and then clear the roof rafters. This gets even more complicated if the pipe goes up centered on the window because it would also be centered on the ridge beam of the angled ceiling. It's pretty busy up there. Putting the stove in the right corner, then doing an offset to follow the ceiling angle say to an exit around the right edge of the window might work.

Definitely do some exploration of rafter alignment. That may be the final determinant. Is there any working room in an attic space above?

 

[begreen]

What is the distance from the left side of the window to the island counter? How large of a stove is going in? Do you have one picked out?

Just process thinking here, but is there anywhere else in the room (or other room) that is also a possibility, even if it made for reconfiguring the furniture layout? I ended up flipping our living room layout to get the stove to work right.

 

[Riverbanks]

No ridge beam with trusses, right? 3/12 pitch inside, a 6/12 outside, I'm guessing, but, is there a perfect flashing for the ridge? I've always offset a bit. That makes a install a lot easier

 

[begreen]

The flashing is for the roof and yes 6/12 is common. Did you mean ceiling support box?

Is there a ridge beam for the 3/12 ceiling? I thought it was following the roof slope on the low side, but this doesn't sound like it. I can't figure out why the builder didn't follow the natural roofline in this room and I am not a carpenter, but this looks like a complicated chimney ceiling support situation. My guess is that it will take a cathedral ceiling support box tied with stringers between the trusses, but again, that is just a guess.

 

[Riverbanks]

My question was, is there a nice flashing for center of ridge exit of class a chimney, I'll get better at posting, give me time

 

[begreen]

I think there is one, by one of the lesser known brands? Security maybe? I would have to look it up. Ventis might have one too? Would this be for locating the stove in another location where the chimney would exit at the roof peak?

 

[Riverbanks]

Yes, I have not looked too hard, it just seemed easier to be offset on the plane of a roof, and I really like a center chimney, whether it be class (a) or masonary, it just looks right, and judging by the home, the weak link for insulation is behind the person taking the picture, it's basically a Gable wall where the cathedral ends to flat ceiling for the rest of the house, probably only r-13 on that transition wall, a weak link

 

[reaperman1]

My question was, is there a nice flashing for center of ridge exit of class a chimney, I'll get better at posting, give me time

Correct 3/12 and 6/12 and there is no ridge beam. If you look at the photo of inside of the home you can see the vault built into the truss, ending where the stud wall begins on the right side of the photo. The vaulted part is approx 16' wide, the center of the window is would be 8' to the outside wall. The outside photo shows the widow on the right side of the picture near the corner. I'm not sure if these photos help but its all I have from 06.

 

[reaperman1]

What is the distance from the left side of the window to the island counter? How large of a stove is going in? Do you have one picked out?

Just process thinking here, but is there anywhere else in the room (or other room) that is also a possibility, even if it made for reconfiguring the furniture layout? I ended up flipping our living room layout to get the stove to work right.

From the left side of the window to the island is only 4'. The stove is a BK boxer, I put a deposit down over the phone but haven't picked it up since the dealer is almost 3 hrs away. I'm not sure when I'll have time to get it. Now that you mentioned it, there is a a possible spot I would have to clear with the war department. I will send a phot of that spot on the opposite side of the room tomorrow.

 

[begreen]

OK. It's good to process-think out things before cutting holes. Make up a cardboard mockup of the stove for easier visualization. Thanks for the construction pics, they are helpful.

The Boxer BX24 is a wide stove at just over 30". If it was set so that the flue went up just to the left of the window, that would use up 18" of the 48" space to the counter leaving a reasonable 30" space on the left side of the stove, but you wouldn't want the stool to be closer than 36" in front of the stove.

 

[reaperman1]

Just to be sure my math is correct. A chimney must be 2' higher that the highest part of a roof in a 10' radius. So with a 6/12 pitch, ten feet up the roof would be 5 feet higher in height. Adding 2 feet to meet minimum chimney criteria would put the minimum chimney height at 7 feet protruding, correct?