Please dont let me burn down my garage

[james rockford]

Love this site. Been lurking but now need good,sound advice.

I have a 400 sq ft garage (detached, 40 ft from home). Fully insulated, carpeted, electric (now a guest house).

I just bought a used Challenger mmx woodstove up here in Toronto,Canada. It seems like apretty good stove. Specs are 6' flue/33,800 btu/hr,/2.6 emissions/.

Garage has 8 ft ceiling with crawl space attic. Im thinking of placing the stove on a side wall 2 ft from a double pained window. Im going to go by code all the way, Only question I have is 'can I feed double lined pipe straight out side wall (maybe at 6ft height) into a stainless steel double insulated chimney pipe.

Also, if I do all the prep work (base, wonder board the ceiling/walls,have the stove in place). How much will I pay to basically have a pro come in and cut the hole through the wall and fasten/seal the chimney to code.

Thanks

 

[Corie]

Are you asking if you can do a wall pass through with double wall pipe and then meet up with the class A system once outside the envelope of the building?

If that's the question, the answer is no. You wouldn't want to anyway. That double wall section would experience some pretty massive cooling before it hit the class A and you probably wouldn't have enough heat left in the flue gases for strong draft or at the very least you'd have a serious creosote producer. If that's not the question, than I'm confuddled?

 

[james rockford]

I do want to go through the wall though (a nice quick out the wall and up the chimney). What pipes/s would I need to use? Thanks for the quick response Corie

 

[Mike]

Hey James. I'm also in TO. It's been a while since i looked at this for garages. In the city of TO, you need a permit no matter what anyone tells you. Check out the city website which spells this out CLEARLY. You will also need to follow CSA B365-01. I am not familiar with the Challenger stove particularly . It sound like you should review the install manual for any draft considerations re chimney/flue height. Two feet sounds like reasonable clearance from the wall however you will need to review the manual to assure this clearance from combustibles is acceptable. The Ont Bldg Code and CSA Std essentially rely upon mfr recommendations besides some other hard and fast requirements. Section 9.22 is the key section in the OBC. If carpeting is too close, could be a problem.

Three of four vendors in the west end told me I don't need a permit and the 4th said it was too hard to get one. Don't buy this BS. The permit is less than 90 bucks and assures your safety. Make sure you are dealing with a WETT vendor/installer. You will also likely need to inform your insurer. In the event of fire, they will say thank you and goodbye if you have one.

Good luck with the install.

 

[BrotherBart]

Yo Corie! What is the problem if the double wall goes into a Class A thimble through the wall to a Class A insulated chimney outside. Kinda like 99% of the Class A chimneys on the planet?

The other 1% are vented out the window, sealed with duck tape.

 

[Roospike]

I think the "Class A thimble" is the key . It needs a thimble to go through the wall .
The "correct" set up doing it your self is going to cost from $350-$750. and having it done is going to run from $600-$1400. + depending on your application .

Posted is a chart to get you started and what your going to need.

 

[Corie]

Sorry BB, I got the idea from his first post that he was planning on passing the double wall right through the wall without a thimble and then connecting it to a chimney hanging off the side of the building.

He didn't mention a thimble, so I got the notion he was just going to pass the double wall through without one. Its been a long day, so if I jumped down his throat about it, I sincerely apologize. I've been working on a system dynamics project for the past 28 hours straight with 3 hours of sleep. I'm past my expiration date.

 

[Mike]

From the City website:
In many cases, your designer or contractor will get permits on your behalf. But remember, it is the building owner who is ultimately responsible for complying with all building requirements.

You need a building permit if you plan to:

construct a new building
renovate, repair or add to a building
demolish or remove all or a portion of a building
change a building's use
install, change or remove partitions and load-bearing walls
make new openings for, or change the size of, doors and windows
build a garage, balcony or deck
excavate a basement or construct a foundation
install or modify heating, plumbing, air conditioning systems or fireplaces
reconstruct a chimney.

From CSA B365-01. Section 3.3:

..... An appliance may be installed in a storage or residential garage, provided that the appliance is mounted at least 450 mm (18 in) above floor level and protected against physical damage.

later on at 3.4.1:

the installer shall determine that the solid fuel burning appliance or equipment .......(b) can be installed in accordance with this standard.

Section 5.3 deals specifically with thimbles.

 

[BrotherBart]

Sorry BB, I got the idea from his first post that he was planning on passing the double wall right through the wall without a thimble and then connecting it to a chimney hanging off the side of the building.

He didn't mention a thimble, so I got the notion he was just going to pass the double wall through without one. Its been a long day, so if I jumped down his throat about it, I sincerely apologize. I've been working on a system dynamics project for the past 28 hours straight with 3 hours of sleep. I'm past my expiration date.

Corie you are right. He didn't mention the thimble. But hopefully he is thinking about it now, if he wasn't before.

Or he hates that garage and wants to burn it down. "Mother-In-Law apartment"?

 

[james rockford]

Great help- thanks guys I appreciate it.

 

[webbie]

It's also confusing since double wall pipe also applies to double wall INTERIOR chimney connector.

Basically, a wall pass though is the same chimney as goes up the exterior (class A) which is installed through a set of firestop spacers and always enters into the side of a T. This class A must penetrate at least a few inches into the heated area...assuming a combustible wall.