please help with identifying an old Jotul Series 8 and finding parts

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Gulkana

New Member
Dec 1, 2025
5
PNW
Hi everyone, I just acquired this Jotul 8 and I am in need of a back baffle for it. Apparently there are a few different back baffles depending on what series 8 it is. Could some kind person help me identify this Jotul and and back baffle it needs? And a good source for used Jotul parts or new
thanks very much
 

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[Hearth.com] please help with identifying an old Jotul Series 8 and finding parts

This stamp says it's an 8TDIC. If so, it is missing several parts including the bypass and cat assembly. Is there a hole on the upper right side for a bypass control? FWIW, I didn't know there was a TDIC version of the 8.
 
We can’t see the entire stove, but here is what Google AI says are the differences between models.

  • 1981-1989: The 8TDC model was produced, featuring a draft wheel on the front door, an "L" style handle, and a catalytic converter.
  • 1989-1991: The Series 8 was made, featuring a draft slider, a left-front bypass damper, and a 6-inch reversible flue collar.
  • 1991-1993: The Series 8 AP was made, which was the same as the previous Series 8 but included an ashpan.
  • 1993-1998: The Series 8 continued to be produced.
 
This definitely has the upper air control, no spin wheel. It's a series 8. In one of my series 8 manuals, there is a post-it note for 8TDIC, so it existed.
@Gulkana can you post a shot of the UL label on the rear of the stove?
 
Here's the parts diagram and parts list. Click to enlarge.

[Hearth.com] please help with identifying an old Jotul Series 8 and finding parts [Hearth.com] please help with identifying an old Jotul Series 8 and finding parts
 
Is the OP asking for a back for the stove? The 103047 PN is for the back burn plate. Lot of these older 8 parts are hard to find. Woodman Parts plus is still a good source for older Jotul parts if Jotul no longer supports them. Good luck.
 
this Is a catalytic stove. It need the entire cat damper assembly And a cat. The rod is the giveaway. It’s not worth the cost in my opinion.
 
This definitely has the upper air control, no spin wheel. It's a series 8. In one of my series 8 manuals, there is a post-it note for 8TDIC, so it existed.
@Gulkana can you post a shot of the UL label on the rear of the stove?
thanks for all the help!! the stove is in a tight spot and I can't get great photos of it. The back doenst have any label. Just the "made in norway" is all I see.
it would be great to know exactly what parts are missing
 

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thanks for all the help!! the stove is in a tight spot and I can't get great photos of it. The back doenst have any label. Just the "made in norway" is all I see.
it would be great to know exactly what parts are missing
The UL testing label might have been on the rear heat shield which is missing. Unfortunately, that makes this an unlisted stove.
 
Is it possible to by pass the catalytic system and it will burn wood without issues?
I thought this question might come up. The answer is possibly, but it would not burn great and it would be fool hardy to not at least put in a baffle system that slowed down the flue gases. Otherwise then, and most of the heat, will head straight up the flue.
 
The stove should not be used if not complete. Its really not worth the trouble/cost involved. Best to be a parts stove. Stay warm.
 
This definitely has the upper air control, no spin wheel. It's a series 8. In one of my series 8 manuals, there is a post-it note for 8TDIC, so it existed.
@Gulkana can you post a shot of the UL label on the rear of the stove?

The stove should not be used if not complete. Its really not worth the trouble/cost involved. Best to be a parts stove. Stay warm.
based on the info here it is likely i'll part it out and be done with it. It was given to me so I wouldn't be out much at all
not sure how to go about parting it out