Please tell me it gets easier than this? (a whole lot of whining)

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squngel

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 1, 2006
91
South Central IN
December has been rough for this first-year wood burner, and I'm starting to feel a bit discouraged.

Like a lot of noobs, I am having serious wood issues. The three cords of soft maple I have are not cured as I thought they would be. I did get 2 more cords of hickory for a good price ($90/cord), but as they were cut and split back in April, they're only slightly better than the maple.

I'd go nuts foraging for standing deadwood on the family farm, except that I can't use a chainsaw. So, I'm going nuts (literally, I think) pulling down standing dead dogwood. I am limited to trees that won't extend past the end of my truck bed 3-4' once I've broken the tops off, so these are maximum 3 to 3" diameter at the base. I drive them home, then cut them with the miter saw. I've been bringing in a truckload of this about twice a week. The dogwood is super-cured, plus it dries out very quickly when it's wet because it's so small. It's fun but my back is getting tired and so am I ... as a not-so-young anymore 100 lb woman. Also the "truckloads" are only as many trees as I can fit in the bed, uncut, so when cut the whole load comes to... maybe a quarter of a rick, at most?

I've been burning about 80% of this small dogwood, but it's been nearly impossible to keep up with even heating only 2 rooms in the house (living room and kitchen), plus on a night like last night when it was in the teens, I get really sick of continually having to reload the little stuff. I'll have maybe one or two questionable logs I can throw on a night when the stove is already cranking. It's been wet, wet, wet here for weeks now, and being a dumb noob I didn't plan for any dry wood storage, so my method has been to take the driest, most cured stuff I can find, deposit it in my garage for a week or so, then bring it into the house and put it next to the stove for a few days. The wood really needs this to get fully dried out, but the hickory I bought is so full of beetle dust that I'm afraid to really keep it in the house for any length of time. Today I went and found one of those big tupperware-type storage bins, and threw a few pieces of it in that, thinking maybe the bugs will stay inside the bin while the wood dries out??? So, I'm trying to burn as little of this semi-cured wood as I can, and when I do so, burn it super-hot, with a raging coal bed and with a bunch of dogwood pieces.

I guess the good news is that if I get through this winter, I'll have plenty of wood for next year, provided the post beetles don't completely devour the hickory.
 
Yes, it does get easier. First year wood burners almost always have to go through the initiation of unseasoned wood. Its a really good learning experience, but sucks at the same time. As you have probably read (or already know), stay at least 1 year ahead of the wood pile. 2 is even better. And make sure you have some method to keep the "wet" off of this years burn pile.

If its personal, I understand not answering, but..... no chain saw? There are some smaller models that are very capable machines and light weight. Chain saws aren't for everyone, but they do make them for smaller frame people, but do what you know in your mind is right. If you aren't comfortable or capable of running a chain saw, then don't tempt the reaper.

It will get easier. You will learn the ins and outs. And you will be visiting hearth.com come next fall telling us how important truly seasoned wood is and how much easier it makes the wood burning life style. And urging the next noob to get in touch with seasoned wood.

Enjoy----its a life style. :)
 
It WILL get better.

this is my second year, and I messed up a month ago and stacked my seasoned with my unseasoned wood, digging thru the pile last night in the dark trying to tell which was which, I gave up.
came in the house, turned the heater up and went to bed.

Ill have to sort it out in the daylight.

about having firewood:

You truly have to stay at least a season ahead
and you have to think bigger piles than you were planning on
 
Jags said:
If its personal, I understand not answering, but..... no chain saw? There are some smaller models that are very capable machines and light weight. Chain saws aren't for everyone, but they do make them for smaller frame people, but do what you know in your mind is right. If you aren't comfortable or capable of running a chain saw, then don't tempt the reaper.


Enjoy----its a life style. :)

I have long-standing wrist and thumb problems, with very little strength in either... since I don't have the wrist strength to hold a full coffee mug by the handle (gotta hold it from the bottom), or thumb strength/dexterity to write by hand anymore, drive rack-and pinion steering or even hold regular eating utensils, any kind of chainsaw probably a no-no. (Vibration is also bad. The miter saw is easy to operate in spite of that; maybe because it's in such short bursts (?)

Actually I am enjoying it, or I probably wouldn't be going to such lengths to keep doing it. :) I still have a few hundred gallons of LP in my tank but haven't used it; I just really don't want to anymore. As difficult as it is I get a huge satisfaction out of providing my own heat (with a little help from mother nature, my saw,; my stove builders, etc.)
 
I had to stiffle a laugh when I read (and moved) your post. We've all been there--some of more than once.

I think burning green/wet wood is an important initiation ritual for new woodburners. I don't think it's fair, but it seems to happen to just about everyone, and I can guarantee that as you use your stove and get used to your wood supply, things will get better, even without perfectly dry wood. Unfortunately, heating with wood has a steep learning curve, and it reappears to some extent every time you get a new stove or move from a stove to a furnace or a boiler. It's just the way it is, and those of us who have been doing it for awhile (grudgingly) accept that fact and try to cope, knowing that things will steadily improve.

But it sounds to me like you're off to a good start, and 500 acres of free wood is something most of us only dream about.

And I would second Jags' point about getting the right saw and learning to use it safely and productively. You can buy a very powerful, light saw like the Husqvarna 346xp that you'll be able to handle, and it will cut more firewood, more easily, than you ever though possible.

So good luck, and hang in there.

ps. Powder post beetles burn pretty good in their own right.
 
squngel said:
Jags said:
If its personal, I understand not answering, but..... no chain saw? There are some smaller models that are very capable machines and light weight. Chain saws aren't for everyone, but they do make them for smaller frame people, but do what you know in your mind is right. If you aren't comfortable or capable of running a chain saw, then don't tempt the reaper.


Enjoy----its a life style. :)

I have long-standing wrist and thumb problems, with very little strength in either... since I don't have the wrist strength to hold a full coffee mug by the handle (gotta hold it from the bottom), or thumb strength/dexterity to write by hand anymore, drive rack-and pinion steering or even hold regular eating utensils, any kind of chainsaw probably a no-no. (Vibration is also bad. The miter saw is easy to operate in spite of that; maybe because it's in such short bursts (?)

Actually I am enjoying it, or I probably wouldn't be going to such lengths to keep doing it. :) I still have a few hundred gallons of LP in my tank but haven't used it; I just really don't want to anymore. As difficult as it is I get a huge satisfaction out of providing my own heat (with a little help from mother nature, my saw,; my stove builders, etc.)

Ahhhh... I get it. Sounds like you are bound to the local firewood supply. Not bad, lots of people do it. Keep at least 1 year ahead and you should be in good shape. Buy green stuff in the summer (usually cheaper) for NEXT year and that should give about 18 months of good seasoning. Thats usually good for any species. Keep it under tarps (top only please) or under roof and your golden.

Edit: Ask Eric how many years worth HE keeps ahead (he's been doing this awhile). I think its about 4 isn't it? (40+ cord)
 
Depends on how much I burn, Jags. That remains to be seen.

If you compare the market price of dry wood ($200 to $250/cord most places) with the price of green wood ($125 to $175 most places), buying green wood and drying it yourself is one of the best investments you can make.
 
We have all been there and will be again. Kudos to ya for overcoming the physical impediments and keeping on keeping on. Heck I know for a fact that within the next month I will hit that firebox full of wood that will just drive me crazy and end up going to bed with the electric heater turned on in the bedroom. Part of game. Been doing it since 1977 and ten times a year I swear I am done with it.

And I fire up the saw every Spring. And don't even ask how many times I have been out cutting deadwood covered with snow and stacking it next to the stove in March.

Hang in there. It's worth it.
 
Just a thought.... but you have 500 acres of woods to barter with. Maybe contact a local logger or firewood supplier and barter up a deal... they can cut X number of cords/acres off your property and they supply you with seasoned firewood.

Worth a few phone calls I think.
 
Could I suggest enlisting the help of someone more physically able to fell and buck your standing dead wood in return for cutting some of their own green wood ? There are lots of able folks without access to any wood and the majority of the time (at least in my case) is spent transporting, splitting and stacking and not felling and bucking. Best of luck and next year will surely be easier.

[quote author="squngel" date="1197947834"

I have long-standing wrist and thumb problems, with very little strength in either... since I don't have the wrist strength to hold a full coffee mug by the handle (gotta hold it from the bottom), or thumb strength/dexterity to write by hand anymore, drive rack-and pinion steering or even hold regular eating utensils, any kind of chainsaw probably a no-no. (Vibration is also bad. The miter saw is easy to operate in spite of that; maybe because it's in such short bursts (?)

Actually I am enjoying it, or I probably wouldn't be going to such lengths to keep doing it. :) I still have a few hundred gallons of LP in my tank but haven't used it; I just really don't want to anymore. As difficult as it is I get a huge satisfaction out of providing my own heat (with a little help from mother nature, my saw,; my stove builders, etc.)[/quote]
 
Jim Walsh said:
Just a thought.... but you have 500 acres of woods to barter with. Maybe contact a local logger or firewood supplier and barter up a deal... they can cut X number of cords/acres off your property and they supply you with seasoned firewood.

Worth a few phone calls I think.

This occurred to me also. Technically the farm is my father's, so he'd have to give me the okay on that. The only reason I can think of that this might not work is that wood is plentiful around here, and firewood prices cheap compared to other places. (It might not be worth it for the person cutting the wood for me.D)
 
Sounds like you shouldn't have much trouble finding someone to cut you wood off of your property in exchange for allowing them to take a similar amount for themselves. I would do it for you if I was closer. Good luck!
 
My father will not allow any green wood to be cut, so a deal could be worked out as long as it was deadwood-only. Much of it is old-growth white oak and consequently the local timber guys have been breathing down his neck for years trying to get him to sell the place or at least let them come in to cut some out, but he won't give an inch (or a single tree, rather.)
 
I'm nearly in the same boat with the newbie blues and inability to locate local seasoned wood. Their idea of seasoned leaves a lot to be desired- that and the near 100% humidity we have had of late is about to do me in. I too have piles of it indoors trying to dry it as much as possible.

I do have some good seasoned wood but it is too long for my firebox and the husband won't be getting his chainsaw until Christmas morning. If I can make it til then I might have a months worth of decent stuff.

I knew this was going to happen back in November when I was using my good wood to play with and learn my insert. Boy do I wish I had some of that stuff back.
I feel like Scarlet O'Hara standing at the bottom of the stairs vowing "As God is my witness I will never face another season with wet wood!"
 
Cearbhaill said:
I'm nearly in the same boat with the newbie blues and inability to locate local seasoned wood. Their idea of seasoned leaves a lot to be desired- that and the near 100% humidity we have had of late is about to do me in. I too have piles of it indoors trying to dry it as much as possible.

I do have some good seasoned wood but it is too long for my firebox and the husband won't be getting his chainsaw until Christmas morning. If I can make it til then I might have a months worth of decent stuff.

I knew this was going to happen back in November when I was using my good wood to play with and learn my insert. Boy do I wish I had some of that stuff back.
I feel like Scarlet O'Hara standing at the bottom of the stairs vowing "As God is my witness I will never face another season with wet wood!"
:lol:

hmm... could xmas come a little early this year?

also, anothe female, and in my next door neighbor state as well--howdy! I have to agree with you that all this wet weather we're having is making this newbie thing A WHOLE LOT HARDER. You have my sympathies.
 
Have you given any thought about Bio Bricks ? Lots of info on here about them . Cost could be a problem as I saw some prices at over $ 500.00 a ton in some places. Heating with wood is a high maintenance way to heat . As far as saws go , I have a Stihl 290 , a friend of mine has a Stihl that has the same rpm's as mine at half the weight , I do not remember the model # but it is a nice saw . I think he told me it cost around $ 500.00 .
 
buildingmaint said:
Have you given any thought about Bio Bricks ? Lots of info on here about them . Cost could be a problem as I saw some prices at over $ 500.00 a ton in some places. Heating with wood is a high maintenance way to heat .

I signed up to be notified when BioBricks were available in my area but don't expect it to happen in time for this year.
I would love to have a pallet or two in the garage for backup.
 
I cheated a little my first burning season. I accelerated the drying process by resplitting the my more seasoned pieces of wood and put them in the room with the stove to dry them out. I had to run the stove wide open and the smaller pieces killed the overall burn time, but definitely sped up the time it took to dry out the wood. This season will be over soon enough. Do yourself a favor and keep your splits on the larger size for next year's wood. I'm finding the bigger the piece, the longer the burn time. I keep my pieces as large as possible and still fit into the stove.
 
squngel said:
Jim Walsh said:
Just a thought.... but you have 500 acres of woods to barter with. Maybe contact a local logger or firewood supplier and barter up a deal... they can cut X number of cords/acres off your property and they supply you with seasoned firewood.

Worth a few phone calls I think.

This occurred to me also. Technically the farm is my father's, so he'd have to give me the okay on that. The only reason I can think of that this might not work is that wood is plentiful around here, and firewood prices cheap compared to other places. (It might not be worth it for the person cutting the wood for me.D)

Ok, hmmm, how bout this? If ya can't barter wood for wood cut & split for you. How bout seeing if you can pay someone to cut & split for you. Maybe work a deal thats cheaper than purchasing firewood outright. Do ya have any kin that an help you out? Surely we have someone here in that area that could help or even take you up on your deal. Heck, I know I would if I was close by. Don't get discouraged, this time next year, you'll be seeing just how well that stove performs with seasoned wood and a seasoned wood burner. ;)
 
Thank you, everyone, for being so supportive! (Yes, sometimes whining and outright asking others to tell you what you need to hear actually works.) I am actually feeling better now, gearing up for next trip down to the farm tomorrow morning, hoping to find that next mother lode of dogwood. :)

Specifically:

Eric, sorry I posted in the wrong place. Guess this is why I kept getting error messages after I went to the right place... apparently there's a learning curve to the forum too.

Jag, you say 18 mos. good curing for almost any species. I noticed in the birch vs. red maple thread someone saying birch won't keep longer than a year. Any other wood that's true for? Also, I recently heard the word "dody" or "doty" spoken in reference to old wood... anyone tell me what that means? Some of the dogwood I'm getting from the farm seems to have gotten a little spongy rather than just cracking and remaining hard the way the stuff nearer my home does. Is that "doty?"

rudy, thanks-- I am already doing that (re-splitting and putting by fire)... glad to know it's tried and true

BrotherBart, good to know I have good company foraging out in the snow. One of the best things about this forum is that it makes me feel "not-quite-so-crazily-obsessed!"

Thanks guys (and gals)!!
 
You are not alone!!!! I am about to be in your shoes, well sort of. My stove isn't even installed yet. I have a bit of cottonwood cut, but no hard wood at all, wet or dry, so you are ahead of me in that regard.I will be out cutting in the snow and making plans to stock up for next year. Hang in there, at least you are burning :) I have had a few days where I thought it, and I , would fall apart. Not having a supply ready, but my wife and others reminded me that it will all work out in the end, and if was all easy, everyone would do it. Sounds to me like you are on a good path, and we are in the right place to learn from those that have walked this path before us.
 
Is there anyone in your area with an abundant supply of dry wood? Could you resupply them with some "green" wood in trade for seasoned wood?

Garett
 
It would be great if you could stack a bunch of that wood in the garage and throw a fan on it. If the garage is above freezing, it will remove some moisture. A heater on top of that would be good.

I know you are worried about the beetles but it is worth a shot.

Good Luck
 
squngel said:
Jag, you say 18 mos. good curing for almost any species. I noticed in the birch vs. red maple thread someone saying birch won't keep longer than a year. Any other wood that's true for? Also, I recently heard the word "dody" or "doty" spoken in reference to old wood... anyone tell me what that means? Some of the dogwood I'm getting from the farm seems to have gotten a little spongy rather than just cracking and remaining hard the way the stuff nearer my home does. Is that "doty?"

My experience with birch (which I don't burn alot of) is that if the wood is in good shape when cut, split it asap and stack like any other, keep dry, and it will last for plenty of time to be stove chow. This holds true for every variety that I have ever dealt with. The key is to get it split and keep it dry. Your dody (doty) term is new to me, but I would have to guess that it is a comparable term to "punky" (or "fluffy" ;-)). Keep in mind, besides fire, the natural process of wood is to live, die, rot. Unfortunately we cant always get to dead wood before the "rot" stage starts to kick in.

Edit: 18 mo. is pretty darn good for curing most firewood. You will hear things like "oak take 2 years", "I only season my ash for 6 mo", etc., etc. Lots of things can vary seasoning time. Humidity level, species, where stacked, how stacked. Believe me when I say 18 mo. is good and 2 years is better. That will take up for most variables. Keep the top covered if you can. I personally only concern myself with covering what will be the current years burn pile, but I don't have any stuff that is gonna rot before its burned.
 
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