OK I have a new saw (Dolmar 7900) with a 20" bar. Everything I have read says use the shortest bar you can. I like the idea of a shorter bar because it is easier to handle the chainsaw especially when felling. In the owners manual I have been reading about plunge cutting which allows the user to fell a large tree without needing a large bar. I would like to try the plunge cut method but it looks dangerous to me. Is there any advise that those of you who have done this type of cut can give before I try it? My thought is to try it on a smaller tree using my small Stihl 180 before I try it with the Dolmar.
Plunge cutting
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I don't like to nor do I rarely plunge cut. Chance of kickback goes way up but, that said, it's doable if you know what's about to happen and you are hangin' on.
- Jun 12, 2006
- 1,053
Hi -
I'm thinking the same thing. I just got Makita's little brother to your saw (6401) and noticed a difference in handling from the 18" bar on the 5100. I can't plunge anything with it yet as it still has the 'safety' chain on it. I'm cutting a dozen yard trees this week and they have ocasional nails. I have a good Stihl chain ready once this job is done.
I can tell you that the 5100 will plunge fine with sharp chain at wide open throttle. A slight bias toward the 'cutting' side of the bar helps keep the bar pulling in. Have you looked into any of the on-line training like 'The Game of Logging' ?
Mike P
I'm thinking the same thing. I just got Makita's little brother to your saw (6401) and noticed a difference in handling from the 18" bar on the 5100. I can't plunge anything with it yet as it still has the 'safety' chain on it. I'm cutting a dozen yard trees this week and they have ocasional nails. I have a good Stihl chain ready once this job is done.
I can tell you that the 5100 will plunge fine with sharp chain at wide open throttle. A slight bias toward the 'cutting' side of the bar helps keep the bar pulling in. Have you looked into any of the on-line training like 'The Game of Logging' ?
Mike P
It's safe if you read and follow the instructions. Once you get the nose of the bar into the groove, it can't kick back because there's no place for it to go. That said, it's an advanced technique that should always be approached with full understanding and caution.
I plunge cut mostly when removing stumps from trails and only sometimes when harvesting. Rather hard to explain and it's best to watch it done maybe you can find something on 'youtube'...
...the short of it is you're allowing the bottom tip of you saw to penetrate the trunk...the saw does all the work and you're not pushing it as a good chain will pretty much walk its way in. When 1st starting a plunge cut try and avoid letting the upper tip get a bight...cause that will result in a kick back.
Now once your in deep you wont have to worry about any kick backs. Probably a good idea to practice this maneuver where your comfortable and can experience a kick back or 2 without the pressure of falling a tree. You'll get the feel of it in less than 5 minutes or so.
...the short of it is you're allowing the bottom tip of you saw to penetrate the trunk...the saw does all the work and you're not pushing it as a good chain will pretty much walk its way in. When 1st starting a plunge cut try and avoid letting the upper tip get a bight...cause that will result in a kick back.
Now once your in deep you wont have to worry about any kick backs. Probably a good idea to practice this maneuver where your comfortable and can experience a kick back or 2 without the pressure of falling a tree. You'll get the feel of it in less than 5 minutes or so.
It looks like in your avatar you are about to start a plunge cut, correct? Anyway as I understand it there are two types of kick back. One the saw rotates back toward the operator, the other it pushes back toward the operator. During the entire operation the push back type of kick back would be a possibility wouldn't it? The other thing, is it safer to keep the RPM up as suggested or keep the RPM moderate? How much does type of chain matter, I like to run $tihl yellow chain which is more aggresive chain, should I try this with a more moderate green chain first?
Plunge cuts are absolutely safe when done properly (hint: seek some training). When used properly for felling they give you better control of the tree, and thus can be safer than doing a traditional back cut. I am speaking specifically of using the open face notch, followed by a plunge cut that leaves a strap of fiber on the back of the tree, and then the strap is cut at the final moment when you want to release the tree. A properly executed plunge cut does not use the kickback area of the tip until the bar is contained inside the tree. Done improperly it certainly would be dangerous, but it is a very simple technique to learn and perform safely. It is the only way I fell anything that I cant just push over by hand.
That's not me, but he is making a plunge cut on a very valuable tree to avoid splitting.
I would go with the less aggressive chain. Yes, the chain can be pushed out of the cut, I suppose, but more likely the chain brake would trip before that happened.
BTW, I cut about 20 cords of 24-inch firewood annually from standing trees, but I generally don't do the plunge. It has specific applications that generally don't apply to the kind of cutting I do, which is to say knocking down trees up to 20 inches in diameter with a 16-inch bar and blocking them into firewood.
I would go with the less aggressive chain. Yes, the chain can be pushed out of the cut, I suppose, but more likely the chain brake would trip before that happened.
BTW, I cut about 20 cords of 24-inch firewood annually from standing trees, but I generally don't do the plunge. It has specific applications that generally don't apply to the kind of cutting I do, which is to say knocking down trees up to 20 inches in diameter with a 16-inch bar and blocking them into firewood.
clarkharms said:
Full RPM and for obvious reasons you really cant do a plunge cut with safety chain. The precise chain does not matter all that much. I run a Oregon 73LG chain, which is fairly aggressive, and it plunge cuts beautifully. I have not done it with skip or semi-skip chains so I cant comment on that. As with all cutting, a properly sharpened chain, and tuned bar will help greatly and reduce the rearward kicks once your bar is into the tree. Depending on the wood, the angle, pressure, etc, you still might get a little rearward kickback action, but it is not significant enough to bring the bar back far enough to be of any danger. For the most part it will feel like chatter or heavy vibration when it happens, and rarely will it be strong enough to activate an inertial chain brake.
I strongly recommend that people seek training to get off on the right foot with these skills.
Clark just go ahead and try plunging with the chain you have on...it'll either work or it wont. You have to know your equipment and only comes with experience. I'd recommend a half throttle until you're in 8-10" or so then your pretty much golden and can open her up. Kick backs don't mean jack in the age of the chain break...if you're working with chain saws that's just the nature of the beast.
just say'en I use Oregon 73LG chain and they plunge cut well...but it is a rare thing to do.
just say'en I use Oregon 73LG chain and they plunge cut well...but it is a rare thing to do.
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