Poor Product or Incompetency? Regency H-35

[pstone]

Hi All,

First post here but a longtime lurker and learner - thank you all for your willingness to share your knowledge and expertise.

Last year I purchased and installed a Regency H35 and really enjoyed the ambiance, heat output and look of the stove. Spring came and I turned it off completely for the summer, supply gas and valve on the stove. When a cold snap came through in early fall I decided to turn it back on only to find the heat output was drastically less, I'd guess at 25% of normal. The flame size was noticeably smaller and on the lowest heat setting there wasn't enough gas to burn. Naturally I called the shop that sold me the unit and they sent someone out to see whats going on. The technician tested it, tore it apart to check for blockages and supply gas pressure. It all checked out so he said it was probably the valve/manifold preventing enough gas from feeding the flame. A month later the same company finally came out with a new valve (warranty) and installed it. Unfortunately it didn't change anything, technician left... and a few new problems came up.

1) Flame/BTU output is still at about 25% of normal operation after a previous season of proper operation. No new appliances have been added and the 1/2" supply line runs directly from the meter, on its own run about 50'.
2) Smelled gas and found the tech failed to tighten a supply line from the valve to the burner orifice.
3) Previously, the flame would turn on from the pilot immediately and now there's a delay of about 20 seconds after something clicks.
4) After about 10 minutes of the flame on, another click and all flames turn off including the pilot.

I don't know much about gas valves, thermopiles/couples and what it takes to have one of these systems work properly, but Im also wondering if the company that's been out twice knows much either - despite common sense as one the largest fireplace dealers in the Denver area. So any advice would be great. Here's what I've done so far.

1) pressure tested the main supply line at 15 psi for 24 hours with no leaks
2) tested the supply gas pressure, 7.8 wc or just over .25 psi
3) double checked all connections before and after the fireplace valve

Anything else I can check/do before I call a different company? Clearly the competency of the dealer is subpar and inconsistent, but maybe Regency's quality is subpar too... Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks in advance,

Paul

 

[DAKSY]

Has anyone tried to see what happens with the glass front removed?
Try that & see what happens.
If it burns correctly with the glass removed, then the blockage is in the venting.
***NOTE: Do NOT burn the unit for an extended period of time without the glass.!***

 

[redwood78]

I'm no expert but having just installed a Regency gas fireplace of my own and going through various manuals many times the following thoughts come to mind:
1) Have you adjusted the aeration?
2) Have you checked the vent restrictor plate for being in the proper position and unobstructed?
3) I remember a number of references to altitude in manuals I've read. You are a mile above sea level in Denver. Not sure if that factors in but something to think about.

What's odd to me is that it was working fine before you turned it off. Common sense would obviously indicate something changed. It's fairly common knowledge that spiders like to take up residence in burner tubes and can clog stuff up. I would make sure everything looks clean such that you have full gas flow. And then as Daksy said make sure you are getting good airflow to the unit and don't have a blockage in your venting.

 

[pstone]

Thanks for the suggestions. Ill tear it a part today and see if I can find any spiders, test it without the glass for venting and check any settings for altitude (although i don't think the ports would need to be changed out). I did play around with the venting you mentioned Redwood78, all I could do is adjust the color/quality of the flame - probably more of an adjustment for burn efficiency.

Ill let you know what I find. Keep the ideas coming, Im determined to have this fixed by next week. Too cold outside to have a warm holiday otherwise.

 

[pstone]

I took the glass out and started it up to find the same level of flame. So, took the stove apart this morning and looked it over again. I took out the burner assembly and blew it out hoping some dried spider guts would come out. No such luck, just some dust. Replaced it and found the same flame level. I noticed its riveted and welded together, could it have a leak in it and not burning some gas? I recall earlier in the fall when it was on there was a faint gas smell coming from the exhaust. Could any unburned NG be venting out or is the inefficiency of the system?

I have a rudimentary water column tester (tube in a u-shape with measurements) that I put on the 1/2" supply. Its at the same level as the gas water heater and gas furnace (they both work fine, 30k and 80k BTU). So unless the entire system is under pressured from the meter and somehow not effecting the other appliances, this is really stumping me.

The one thing I haven't been able to find is the vent restrictor plate adjustment. There's an illustration in the manual but it doesn't state its location. Where should it be located? I'd imagine the results would be different since I turned it on without any gas.

The last technician said he replaced the valve assembly. Maybe he said he did but didn't really. I did test the gas pressure at the burner - it moved the water about 1/2". I can't think of anything else to consider...

 

[DAKSY]

Pull the burner again, remove the burner orifice & check the gas tube BEHIND the burner orifice.
If there's a spider's nest in your system, that's where it'll be. A Q-Tip or a pipe cleaner will get it out.
It'll be within the first inch or two of the orifice.

 

[pstone]

Pull the burner again, remove the burner orifice & check the gas tube BEHIND the burner orifice.
If there's a spider's nest in your system, that's where it'll be. A Q-Tip or a pipe cleaner will get it out.
It'll be within the first inch or two of the orifice.

Just did that, Q-tip wouldn't fit so I disconnected the line from the valve body, put the air compressor on the burner orifice - nothing came out.

 

[DAKSY]

A Q-Tip wouldn't FIT? That tube is normally about 3/8" diameter. Did you pull the pilot orifice instead of the burner orifice?
Burner orifice usually takes a 1/2 box or open end wrench.. Not doubting you, just checking.

 

[pstone]

A Q-Tip wouldn't FIT? That tube is normally about 3/8" diameter. Did you pull the pilot orifice instead of the burner orifice?
Burner orifice usually takes a 1/2 box or open end wrench.. Not doubting you, just checking.

You're right, the q-tip did work with the cotton off. It would only go in about 3/4" though once it hit an elbow. Regardless, clearing out that line must have done the trick. Once reassembled I thought I'd give it one last try and it fired up and currently heating up the room. Must have been a spider or something in that line. Thanks for the tips Daksy! Looking forward to a nice warm winter.

 

[DAKSY]

Allrighty, then! Glad to be of assistance! Merry Christmas!

 

[Heatsource]

i'd call the company that replaced the valve and let them know how Brilliant their tech is/was!!

 

[RickM46]

Wow, this is great stuff as I am about to buy a Regency H35.
I will be only using the unit in the fall and spring as I close up the house for the winter. That means that I have to pay attention to protecting the unit from critters that could show up during the winter. I am not a stranger to hand tools and it seems that going after the non-electronic stuff is not that difficult.