Powder coat burn chamber parts?

[srjtr7]

I have an Enviro Empress FS and every year I need to take the parts from the inside of the burn chamber out and sand the surface rust off and paint with stove paint.

I am thinking of having them media blasted and powder coated in flat black to have this be a permanent fix.

Anyone ever do this?

Anyone think this will work/ be a problem?

 

[Bioburner]

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just do a season end cleaning and spray with some oil to keep rust at bay and not hinder the stoves exchanger with a coating that may well flake off with the rapid heating and expansion of the stoves internals being exposed to direct fire?

 

[krooser]

No need to paint that stuff...

 

[MCPO]

It would have to be some kind of powder coating that would withstand high temps. Is that possible short of porcelain?

 

[MommyOf4]

I have a lot of rust inside the stove and where the ash is. Does this HAVE to be sanded?

 

[srjtr7]

I do give everything a light coating of WD40 at the end of the season...but it does not last and I forget about it during the summer...it's in the finished basement.

I guess I should take them out of the stove during the summer....but again, I forget.

I mainly sand/paint to make it look nice, rust spots look crappy.

I would only powder coat the 3 wall panels and the burn pot, not the heat tubes.

I think if powder coating can work on car exhaust then it should work on here.

 

[Bioburner]

LPS makes a product for long term metal storage. WD40 IMO is a good cleaner at best.

 

[nailed_nailer]

Clean off all surface rust with a good Wire Brush.

Scrape the burn pot clean.

Put back in service.

Paint/coatings will wear away and become an eyesore in no time.

Good Luck,
---Nailer---

 

[St_Earl]

there's a thread here somewhere. someone did that to a quad burnpot. pretty sure the verdict was it wasn't worth it/didn't work as expected.
i'll see if i can dig it up.
looked awesome at first.

 

[St_Earl]

hmmm. this is a different thread. no follow up on how it lasted.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ceramic-burn-pot-coating.51744/

fek. can't find the thread now.

ok found it. same user. follow up.
she says mid thread that there was no difference in ease of cleaning.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ceramic-burn-pot-coating-2.51745/

for summer, i just painted the outside of mine with the high heat stove paint when i was painting the fire box. and i gave the inside a nice dose of the spray on graphite i used on the combustion motor blades.

i've only been burning a little at night for a week or so. but the paint is still in perfect condition.
it really was only for rust prevention anyway though.

 

[St_Earl]

I have a lot of rust inside the stove and where the ash is. Does this HAVE to be sanded?

in my opinion, definitely do what you can on the rust. i used a conical wire wheel on a drill.
even if you don't get every speck of rust, it prepares the surface for paint.

i clean the ash (and entire stove, flue and combustion motor blades) at the end of each season. then paint and place the damp rid holder and packet inside the firebox.
my first season i didn't use damp rid. and i got rust from humidity even through the pam spray coating i used.
this year i just painted with brush on high heat stove black" paint. (just personal preference over spray paint. many people use spray though)
and used the damp rid. zero rust even on the unpainted bare metal baffle plates i put inside after using the wire wheel on them.

if i'm reading your post correctly, you had ash in there all summer?

one guy here posts that he does it that way and has no rust.
but i have no idea how he manages that. i was emptying out water from the damp rid container all summer.

most accepted wisdom is to do a complete cleaning and take rust prevention steps after the end of burn season.

this year i read at least a few people's posts saying they did the cleaning just before starting burning again though.

i wouldn't do that. i know i'd have major rust if i did.
and the fact that you have "a lot of" rust shows you should probably do the cleaning at the end of burn season as well.

here's a recent thread with many views on the topic-
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/painting-the-firebox.113387/

 

[rona]

in my opinion, definitely do what you can on the rust. i used a conical wire wheel on a drill.
even if you don't get every speck of rust, it prepares the surface for paint.

i clean the ash (and entire stove, flue and combustion motor blades) at the end of each season. then paint and place the damp rid holder and packet inside the firebox.
my first season i didn't use damp rid. and i got rust from humidity even through the pam spray coating i used.
this year i just painted with brush on high heat stove black" paint. (just personal preference over spray paint. many people use spray though)
and used the damp rid. zero rust even on the unpainted bare metal baffle plates i put inside after using the wire wheel on them.

if i'm reading your post correctly, you had ash in there all summer?

one guy here posts that he does it that way and has no rust.
but i have no idea how he manages that. i was emptying out water from the damp rid container all summer.

most accepted wisdom is to do a complete cleaning and take rust prevention steps after the end of burn season.

this year i read at least a few people's posts saying they did the cleaning just before starting burning again though.

i wouldn't do that. i know i'd have major rust if i did.
and the fact that you have "a lot of" rust shows you should probably do the cleaning at the end of burn season as well.

here's a recent thread with many views on the topic-
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/painting-the-firebox.113387/

 

[rona]

The best thing to do is clean it as soon as possible after the last fire in the spring. I spray it heavily with veg oil then be sure to seal the exhaust and fresh air intake so air can't migrate into the stove. The leave a note in the fuel hopper reminding you that you have to unseal the exh and fresh air systems before using it.

 

[srjtr7]

I guess I need to do a better job summerizing it like blocking the pipe and putting a damp rid tub in there.

This is what it looks like now.

(broken image removed)

I think if I get it all media blasted and just get the back wall powder coated flat black and leave the burn bot alone that might be the best option.

 

[MommyOf4]

in my opinion, definitely do what you can on the rust. i used a conical wire wheel on a drill.
even if you don't get every speck of rust, it prepares the surface for paint.

i clean the ash (and entire stove, flue and combustion motor blades) at the end of each season. then paint and place the damp rid holder and packet inside the firebox.
my first season i didn't use damp rid. and i got rust from humidity even through the pam spray coating i used.
this year i just painted with brush on high heat stove black" paint. (just personal preference over spray paint. many people use spray though)
and used the damp rid. zero rust even on the unpainted bare metal baffle plates i put inside after using the wire wheel on them.

if i'm reading your post correctly, you had ash in there all summer?

one guy here posts that he does it that way and has no rust.
but i have no idea how he manages that. i was emptying out water from the damp rid container all summer.

most accepted wisdom is to do a complete cleaning and take rust prevention steps after the end of burn season.

this year i read at least a few people's posts saying they did the cleaning just before starting burning again though.

i wouldn't do that. i know i'd have major rust if i did.
and the fact that you have "a lot of" rust shows you should probably do the cleaning at the end of burn season as well.

here's a recent thread with many views on the topic-
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/painting-the-firebox.113387/

I believe I read on the label of Damp rid that you are supposed to open the package right? Does the stuff go all over the place?

 

[St_Earl]

I believe I read on the label of Damp rid that you are supposed to open the package right? Does the stuff go all over the place?

i just put the bag in the holder. the water collected as per the design.
at one point i had to chip out the little drain as the water leaves behind some of the damp rid as it drains.

i hadn't read anything about opening the bag.
the holder is actually designed with ribs in the bottom to hold the bag above the bottom where the water drains.
opening the bag would defeat this design feature.
you can see the side venting too. the crystals would just fall out if the bag were opened.
though if i had known more ahead of buying this, i would have just got the 4 bag refill box and used a strainer over a pot and put the bag in the strainer.

 

[Bioburner]

Anybody have any thoughts about using a golden rod? I have one in a gun safe to keep things dry.

 

[stoveguy13]

I dont think the powder coating will make it threw the season. temps on those parts will be pretty high

 

[imacman]

I dont think the powder coating will make it threw the season. temps on those parts will be pretty high

Only thing I can think of that might stay is Jet Hot coating. They have one that will withstand 2500

 

[Rock Crusher]

I would agree that the parts get too hot for powder coating. Like imacman said, Jet Hot coatings or Swain Tech Coatings which are high temperature ceramic coatings would be your best option. They do auto headers/exhaust manifolds, snowmobile pipes, even pistons..

 

[srjtr7]

Just dropped the parts off to get blasted clean and coated with a hi temp coating, they said it was good for 1000 degrees.

If it wears off....at least they will be rust free and looking better for now.