Prepping a Shed for Paint.

[jatoxico]

I have a shed/pool house that needs painting. I am hand scraping the old paint off , it's a lot of fun... The siding/sheathing is T-111 and is solid but some areas are weather worn with some water damage (cracks etc.). No rot but I feel like some areas might need to be sealed or filled.

Is there a good product for sealing and filling or should I just let the paint fill the cracks? What would I use if I did seal it?

Some spots are going to bare wood but other areas the paint is adhering better and I will be going over it. I have no idea what type of paint was used before. If it was an oil based paint can I go over with latex exterior considering its probably more than twenty years old?

 

[Montanalocal]

I have used this natural linseed oil 50 year paint made in Sweden and it is a great paint.

http://www.solventfreepaint.com/zero-waste-paint.htm

 

[jatoxico]

I have used this natural linseed oil 50 year paint made in Sweden and it is a great paint.

http://www.solventfreepaint.com/zero-waste-paint.htm

Hmmm interesting stuff. I wonder how it would adhere to the areas that will still have paint since I won't be able to get all down to bare wood? I see some suggest linseed oil cut with turpentine as a prep. Maybe that would work for the weathered parts.

 

[Montanalocal]

I am re-doing a deck and am belt sanding the old stain off. I am not getting it all off, yet the raw linseed oil is going right in. The raw linseed oil is really great stuff. Of course, semitransparent stain is not like regular paint.

 

[jatoxico]

So just wanted to post a few pics of what I'm working with. I'm about 75% done with prep. I have no idea what type of paint was originally used but I don't think linseed oil paint will work for me since it doesn't inhibit mildew.

I'm thinking an acrylic primer as a base coat (2 coats) followed by a final coat of latex. I'm filling some the most heavily damaged spots but wondering if an acrylic primer will be enough to seal and protect the damaged wood from further water damage.

 

[jatoxico]

FYI right now HD is offering a nice paint rebate. $40 off 5 gallon buckets and $10 of gallon containers. I picked up 5 g of their acrylic primer for about $95. With $40 off that's pretty good IMO.

Not getting much luv here. Anyone want to offer any comments on a good topcoat choice? Damage to the old paint was mainly due to UV and I have some moss/mildew issues.

 

[mwhitnee]

If you have holes/large cracks Bondo works good, and is sandable. It resists shrinking and cracking, but don't know of it comes in another color except orange.

I'm going to paint my front porch this summer and I'm going to use it to smooth out the top surface of the railings.

 

[sportbikerider78]

I'd highly recommended Sikkens water based translucent stains. Pick a dark one to hide the imperfections.
(broken link removed to http://www.perfectwoodstains.com/products/logs-siding-stain)

One of the biggest misconceptions about preserving wood (that gets wet like a deck) is that you can seal it. You don't need to seal it. You need to just protect it and let it breathe.

As far as prep...i'd spray it down with a stain stripper agent and pressure wash it. Sanding sucks.

 

[jatoxico]

I'd highly recommended Sikkens water based translucent stains. Pick a dark one to hide the imperfections.
(broken link removed to http://www.perfectwoodstains.com/products/logs-siding-stain)

As far as prep...i'd spray it down with a stain stripper agent and pressure wash it. Sanding sucks.

Scraping and sanding does suck, but its done now. The good thing about sanding the whole thing is that I removed a thin layer of weather worn wood from the worst spots.

I have used stain but only on new projects. In places where the sun does not hit the old paint is still adhering very well and did not come off even with pretty aggressive scraping. Its good and rough now from 60 grit but I didn't think a stain would penetrate or cover the remaining paint well. Maybe I'm wrong but I'm going from a dark slate blue to light brown to match the house.

I bought a 100% acrylic primer that I will be using liberally after I fix some damage and imperfections with wood filler or Bondo as suggested above. Guess I just will be using a latex exterior paint but not sure if there is a formulation I should be looking for. A high UV resistance would be good since that seems to have been the biggest cause of failure.

PS the old paint is likely >20 yrs old so it's due.