Problems with Regency Ci 2600 heating up to engage catalyst

[jkline0142]

I have had my Regency Ci 2600 for over a year and have always had problems with the stove getting up to temperature to engage the catalyst (500 - 700 degrees) I seldom see 500 degrees even after the door is left partially open for hours. Air flow issues? Upper shield issues?

Local chimney techs are at a loss as well.

Jim
Orange, CT

 

[Dmitry]

Did "chimney techs" checked your chimney?

"Open door for hours?" Wow. You need to close the door , leave bypass open and air wide open as soon as you have established fire. It might slow down a bit , but after that it will pick up. Then you close bypass if your stove is hot.

And check your wood, please. I'm in CT near you and I know it is impossible to buy dry wood here unless this is your friend who you know for years and trust. What tis the moisture of your wood?

 

[Woody Stover]

Yeah, with the door open, all your heat is going up the flue instead of heating up the stove. But I also think you may have wet wood. Get a cheap moisture meter at Harbor Freight, take several large split that are above 50*, re-split and jam the pins into the freshly-exposed face. 20% would be good but lower is better.

 

[jkline0142]

Did "chimney techs" checked your chimney?

"Open door for hours?" Wow. You need to close the door , leave bypass open and air wide open as soon as you have established fire. It might slow down a bit , but after that it will pick up. Then you close bypass if your stove is hot.

And check your wood, please. I'm in CT near you and I know it is impossible to buy dry wood here unless this is your friend who you know for years and trust. What tis the moisture of your wood?

Thanks for the response. My wood is self cut, hardwood with a 10% - 12% moisture reading. Pieces range in size from 8 -14 inches. The chimney is about 20' and clear. No environmental obstructions like trees causing draft issues around my house either.


The tech took out a "restrictor plate," for a lack of a better word, from the air circulation vent. The hole in this plate was less than a dime size and by removing it air is now passing into the vent box through a quarter size hole. This has significantly improved a consistent burn and enabled me to engage the catalyst. Internal temps got into the low 600 mark, something I've never seen. Still hoping for 700 though.

 

[bholler]

My wood is self cut, hardwood with a 10% - 12% moisture reading.

How are you measuring that moisture content? It seems to low for air dried wood in your area unless it was dried in a solar kiln or something like that. Make sure you keep that restrictor plate with 20' of chimney you should need it once you get things figured out.

 

[jkline0142]

How are you measuring that moisture content? It seems to low for air dried wood in your area unless it was dried in a solar kiln or something like that. Make sure you keep that restrictor plate with 20' of chimney you should need it once you get things figured out.

I use a "General Tools" moisture meter. My wood has been cut and dry since December 2015.

 

[Dmitry]

I use a "General Tools" moisture meter. My wood has been cut and dry since December 2015.

I'm in CT too . 10% sounds unrealistic . I have some 3 years old wood and it's not near 10%. I'm talking about hard wood of course.

 

[jkline0142]

I'm in CT too . 10% sounds unrealistic . I have some 3 years old wood and it's not near 10%. I'm talking about hard wood of course.

I guess I have to see if my meter is accurate. I'll let you know.

 

[bholler]

I guess I have to see if my meter is accurate. I'll let you know.

Did you test on a fresh split face?

 

[jkline0142]

No. I tested in wood I just pulled from my pile and wood I had inside for a couple hours. I will split some when I get home.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

 

[blades]

Need to bring wood in and let it warm up to room temp all the way through. That will take overnight- then split and test. and a fresh battery helps also. Cold or frozen wood will test extremely low ( nobody reads the flippin instructions- course it's mostly printed so small ya can't anyway without a magnifier glass) An even better way is is to mark the split with the pins on the meter -then pound a couple nails in an 1" or so on those marks, then use the meter pins against the nails for a reading as it almost impossible on good hardwood to get those pins in at any depth past about 1/16". ( this again after letting wood warm all the way through.)
Another thing a load of fresh fuel just in from freezing out side will also give you fits trying to get up to temp - half the load will just burn reall low to warm up the rest- and of course this will also lead to a gunked up cat as well as a flue.

 

[jkline0142]

Great. I have some in from yesterday. I will split a piece and take your advice. Results pending...