Processing a felled tree without ruining your chains?

[ironspider]

How do you guys process a felled tree that's been sitting in the dirt?

1. How the heck do you lift it up enough so you don't hit dirt?

2. How do you clean off the dirt from the bottom of the tree assuming you can lift it?

I'm killing my chains.

 

[nrford]

Use a hatchet or axe to clean what you can get to. Loggers through practice just cut as they lay on the ground. You need to slow down and take your time at bottom of cut, it is something you can learn to "feel" when you near the dirt. If you must you can buy a "logjack" cant hook type tool with a stand built into it. I go by feel as I have done this for a long time, I also touch up my chain every tank of gas, whether it needs it or not.

 

[STIHLY DAN]

Cut 80% thru, at some point there will be a divit or branch to go all the way thru. Then roll and recut from inside out.

 

[red oak]

Cut 80% thru, at some point there will be a divit or branch to go all the way thru. Then roll and recut from inside out.

Exactly what I do too. Also, use your hand or a small shovel to clear dirt away from where you're cutting, since at some point you'll have to go all the way through. With the trees that I cut I only need to go all the way through the trunk once or twice and then I can roll the other pieces.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

How do you guys process a felled tree that's been sitting in the dirt?

1. How the heck do you lift it up enough so you don't hit dirt?

2. How do you clean off the dirt from the bottom of the tree assuming you can lift it?

I'm killing my chains.

1) measure and mark your cuts

2) cut 2/3-3/4 through the log on each of your marks

3) some place on that trunk there will be an area that is off the ground. Find the mark nearest (on) that spot and cut all the way through. The bottom of the log should be clean and you were being careful so you didn't ground your chain.

4) cut all the way through every place the log is off the ground. As you make the cuts pound a falling wedge into the top to help keep the log from binding on your bar


5) hopefully by then the log will be in manageable pieces and you can roll it with a cant hook or Peavey. Roll. Clean as needed. Finish cuts.

 

[Jon1270]

I haven't had the opportunity to try this myself yet, but I recently saw a video a guy in which a guy actually lifted one part of a pretty good-sized tree off the ground by cutting most of the way through and then pounding a wedge into the top of the kerf. The uncut part at the bottom acted as a hinge, and opening the top of the kerf with the wedge forced the tree to crown upwards. Looked surprisingly easy.

 

[Firewood Bandit]

You need a good cant hook and roll it after cutting 85% of the way through.

 

[peakbagger]

Cut when there is snow on the ground makes it easy. Mud very rarely is an issue unless the log has been dragged, buck it where it falls. I usually saw about 80% through until I hit a gap between the log and the ground and then finish a cut. I also on occasion do the wedge trick when I am cutting downwards. I normally cut the crown off as much as possible as sometimes the log is loaded up and when you cut through, it may roll or pop up.

With practice its not hard to figure out where the bar nose is. The game of logging had a event where a log is strapped to a couple of waste logs underneath, the object was to cut through without touching the waste logs, every 1/8" of cut into the waste logs were points off

The peaveys with the log jacks work well but are a bit of PITA to lug around.

 

[firefighterjake]

Cut part way. Roll. Finish cut.

 

[Fred Wright]

Semi chisel chain loops are an option as well. They're not as succeptible to dirt.

Agreed with the others - Use a hatchet to remove mudded bark where you want to cut. Buck down from the top part way, insert your wedge. Keep the bar horizontal and cut to just above ground level. Roll the log over, hatchet the remaining muddy bark and finish your cuts.

 

[Paulywalnut]

I like the wedge approach. Keeps the saw from getting stuck after initial cut almost through. I also watch the left side of the piece I'm cutting. The slightest little movement and you know you're almost through then you can cant hook it or wedge it again.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

This is your answer. I say no to the logjack or woodjack. Those tools are no good for most of us. I tried one and then had problems even giving it away.

On the other hand, a good cant hook (I like one with a wooden handle) makes life easy. There is usually a few spots on the log where you can cut clear through (you may have to undercut) and then for the rest, cut part way through, then roll the log with the cant hook. If you happen to be cutting some really big trees, like maybe 36" diameter or larger, then using a cant hook to load the wood after you've bucked it will make life a lot easier for you.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Use a hatchet or axe to clean what you can get to. Loggers through practice just cut as they lay on the ground. You need to slow down and take your time at bottom of cut, it is something you can learn to "feel" when you near the dirt. If you must you can buy a "logjack" cant hook type tool with a stand built into it. I go by feel as I have done this for a long time, I also touch up my chain every tank of gas, whether it needs it or not.

nrford, I would have given you a like on this post as it is great. I've always held off on giving that advice on cutting all the way through because I figured there would be too many folks having problems with it. It takes experience. But the logjack? I found it to be the most worthless tool I ever had.

 

[nrford]

nrford, I would have given you a like on this post as it is great. I've always held off on giving that advice on cutting all the way through because I figured there would be too many folks having problems with it. It takes experience. But the logjack? I found it to be the most worthless tool I ever had.

I wouldn't use a logjack if I had one, either Savage!

 

[Dix]

I think the OP is talking about these trees


Leaner




The one in the dirt. Resin chair for size reference. The oak is full out flat in the dirt.

 

[bigbarf48]

I do as has already been said above. I dont have a cant hook though, I just use my legs to roll

 

[jillybeansisme]

I guess when I move to my new house I will be buying some tools . I am 5'4" tall and not yet a big old heffer, so please don't laugh too loudly with some of my next questions: how much harder is it to use a small chainsaw then my electric 17" hedgetrimmer or my saws-all? Is there such a thing as a small chainsaw? I ask because I had five tears in my rotater cuff and the doc also sawed off some bone. It still bothers me somewhat. (I hope that nephew of mine will come cut down those 14 trees or cut them up and stack them if I have the arborist cut them down). I'm sure there's a beginner's post on tools, but experience in other things such as baking and crafts tells me there are experienced people who can say which tools are worthwhile and which are worthless (such as all those comments on the logjack -- whatever that is). I do know that using leverage helps move things and that I'll have to store all that wood at the back of the lot until the house is finished.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Jilly, because of my bad back and a bad shoulder to boot, my wife had been after me to get a smaller saw. At least I could use it for cutting limbs and use the larger one for the trunk and for felling. I finally bowed to her a year ago and it has not been the same here since. I kick myself for not buying one sooner! For us, we got the Stihl 180 which is a super light saw. You can get this with easy start or regular start. I see no need for the easy start as it starts very easy just pulling the rope. In addition, now I find myself picking up that little 180 most times rather than the bigger saw. Just for kicks, shortly after we bought it we were cutting up a good sized red oak. I cut up the limbs and was working on the trunk. I wondered; what would that little saw do in this oak? It did surprisingly well. It did take just a little longer to get through the trunk but it cut very well. I'm even considering selling the other saw now.

As for how it would be compared to your headge trimmer or sawsall? I'd say it would be easier than the hedge trimmer. Yes, it is that light weight and easy to use. Some other tools you should consider with that bad shoulder is a cant hook and log tongs. Perhaps even a pickeroon but for sure the first two. They really do make the work a lot easier. Cant hook; depending upon the size logs, a 3' or 4' handle. The 3' is really a lot easier to handle and I much prefer the wood handle. The log tongs will also save you lots of bending and will keep your hands dry and warmer plus you will be amazed at how much easier the wood is to handle with a pair or two of those.

 

[Chimney Smoke]

A peavey is a great tool. The 3 or 4 foot handles can do most everything but I bought a new one with a 5 foot handle and wow, what a difference. It's a bit bulkier but I've rolled some big pines about 24 inch diameter at the butt and around 20 feet long like nothing. Again - it's a great tool and if you're doing your own cutting it's a necessity.

 

[jillybeansisme]

Thank you for the replies. I went to Lowe's and took a look at some stuff. They had chain saws (including, Husqvuara). What I found was a little 14" Proulon for $49.95. It is electric, but since I'd be doing most of it at the house, I think it would be okay for my first chain saw. On the good news side, my nephew is meeting me in Eugene on April 15 to c/s/s all 14 of my trees. He says it'll take him a day to fell . . . a half day if he pushes it. But then, that's his side business for years. I did not find the cant hook or anything else but I may have been looking in the wrong spot. I won't buy anything yet since I don't need it for a year at least. But the cool thing is I'll get a hands-on lesson on what and how to do it all!

He suggested I mill some of those big trees into boards rather than firewood and then use the scrap for firewood. What do you think about that? It would be fun to see some of that wood in my house, but I doubt it would be dry enough to use unless somebody has a kiln.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Jillybeans, if you are interested, Bailey's has a sale going on right now and it is $9.95 shipping no matter the size of the order. They sell good stuff. You can look them up online.

 

[tsquini]

How do you guys process a felled tree that's been sitting in the dirt?

1. How the heck do you lift it up enough so you don't hit dirt?

2. How do you clean off the dirt from the bottom of the tree assuming you can lift it?

I'm killing my chains.

1. If the tree is under 12" in diameter you can use a timber jack to lift if off the ground.
http://www.amazon.com/Timber-Tuff-T..._sbs_hi_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Z22698XZ9NYP4N9ZR26

2. Use your hand with a glove to brush away any noticeable rocks.

 

[xman23]

Based on the weight and size of the log I do the following. First I lift it with a timber jack. If that won't work I cut 80% roll and cut. When all that fails I get a 1 ton floor jack under an end, and lift it to get a round under it. If there is no room to get the jack under it I dig out a hole. With this method I have raised the end of 3 ft diameter oaks.

 

[Gboutdoors]

I use a log jack on smaller trees it works great for me. On bigger trees I get the tractor and lift them off the ground with the loader.

 

[DougA]

I mark 16" cuts with a quick zip with the chainsaw, then cut through every 4th or 5th one, depending upon the weight you can handle and where there is space under the trunk. Even on a flat lawn, part of the trunk is always raised somewhere that branches are holding it up. Once you cut the log to a manageable size, then cut 80%, then roll it. Trick is to look at how the trunk is sitting and cut where it is not going to bind your saw as you cut. If that's impossible, cut 3/4 of the way on a bunch of cuts and the pressure gets relieved gradually. Sometimes, there's enough room to make part of a relief cut under the log.

I seem to always start at the top and work toward the base of the tree. I like getting all the branches out of the way first. Nothing more dangerous than tripping over branches or getting them in the faceguard when you are using the chainsaw. I also prefer to cut smaller branches to 8' lengths and use the chopsaw in the garage to cut them to lengths. A plastic wedge is good to keep cuts from binding but with experience, you rarely use it. Never had a logjack, don't want one.