proflame 2 control board

[DDC]

I have a Jotul gf 500 dv ipi propane heater in my cabin. When I tried to turn on for the first time this season, it would not come on. I change the batteries for the control board and the unit would come on, however the fan and the light were pulsing on and off. I turned the fan and light off and used a box fan to move air across the heater. I have ordered and new control board from internet, said it crossed with the one specified (0157.634).
any thoughs as to what this could be. I also hear a slight pulsing sound coming from the control board. was wondering If something be shorted to ground pulling the board down?

 

[Tech Guru]

The Proflame 2 IFC Board has a fuse (3.15 amp, time delay - Bussmann S506) that is directly protecting the X10 and X11 ports (for the lamp & room fan). I'd wonder if there is an issue with this part... Fuse is located under a green plastic cover directly next to where the main power connects to the board.

 

[DDC]

The Proflame 2 IFC Board has a fuse (3.15 amp, time delay - Bussmann S506) that is directly protecting the X10 and X11 ports (for the lamp & room fan). I'd wonder if there is an issue with this part... Fuse is located under a green plastic cover directly next to where the main power connects to the board.

Thanks for your reply. I was thinking about that, however when a fuse is blown it is typically open and stays open.
these are cycling on and off. I was wondering if it had and electronic protection and one of the output devices (fan, light, valve etc. was pulling it down?? like a crowbar circuit. Before replacing the board i was going to unhook each of the devices to see if this was the case.
any other areas to look at?

 

[Jotulrob]

Old thread but I’m having the same issue, that wishing you heard was the fan. My light and fan are doing the same thing and it’s in a pattern, also after dead batteries.

 

[Jotulrob]

Just updating. It’s a small surface mount diode that has failed just after the fuse. Easy and very cheap repair. If anyone runs into this or needs help please get ahold of me instead of wasting several hundred dollars.

 

[RyanL]

Just updating. It’s a small surface mount diode that has failed just after the fuse. Easy and very cheap repair. If anyone runs into this or needs help please get ahold of me instead of wasting several hundred dollars.

Jotulrob,

I am having a similar issue with my fan pulsing on and off. I also hear a faint sound coming from my control board too. I have replaced the 4 batteries to the control board and the batteries in the remote. Still no luck. My fireplace is a different model: Enviro Berkeley IPI. My control board part #: 0.584.326 (50-3202). Picture of my circuit board is attached.

Any more information on this surface mount diode after the fuse would be great rather then purchasing a new board! Shoot me a PM or reply here please!

Thanks

 

[Jotulrob]

Ok so looking at your photo on the bottom left just above the fuse there was 3 little black squares if I remember right, those are the diodes. If you have a multimeter but don’t know how to test diodes just google it it’s very easy. The idea of a diode is it is only supposed to allow current to flow one way, mine was shorted allowing it to go both ways. So on continuity setting it should only beep one direction. You’ll need to clip the bad diode in half and on the back side solder a new standard diode, for ease it does not need to be a surface mount diode.

 

[RyanL]

Ok so looking at your photo on the bottom left just above the fuse there was 3 little black squares if I remember right, those are the diodes. If you have a multimeter but don’t know how to test diodes just google it it’s very easy. The idea of a diode is it is only supposed to allow current to flow one way, mine was shorted allowing it to go both ways. So on continuity setting it should only beep one direction. You’ll need to clip the bad diode in half and on the back side solder a new standard diode, for ease it does not need to be a surface mount diode.

Okay here is a closer up of the 3 little black squares right after the fuse. Any specific one for the blower fan? or should I use the multi meter to test them all? Saw plenty of videos on testing diodes that seemed helpful.

Thanks again for the guidance!

 

[Jotulrob]

It’s the farthest one from the fuse, if you’re not get eat with a soldering iron watch videos on how to unsolder a “surface mount” component. If you’re still having trouble just let me know and I’ll help what I can.

 

[Jotulrob]

BUT. Test it and make sure it’s bad. I’m 99% sure that’s what it’ll be but double check. It should only beep one direction with the multimeter.

 

[RyanL]

BUT. Test it and make sure it’s bad. I’m 99% sure that’s what it’ll be but double check. It should only beep one direction with the multimeter.

Alright, I have used my multimeter to check the F36 200A square and the FAF16GFIM square. Current flows both ways on those two squares. The square with the tabs seems to be correct according to the video I have watched. So I am guessing that I need to replace just the 2 squares using soldiering method?

I did test voltage of the fan connector on the board while it was powered on and the voltage was up and down going crazy, just as it was acting. I have plugged the blower fan directly to a wall outlet and it works perfectly to rule it out as the issue.

Anything else on the board you think I need to test out related to fan issue at all?

Thanks

 

[Jotulrob]

I believe just replacing the F36 should do it for you, I’m not sure the other component is diode, I’d have to look it up. Just replace the F36 with a standard 1n4004 diode and you’ll be good to

 

[RyanL]

I believe just replacing the F36 should do it for you, I’m not sure the other component is diode, I’d have to look it up. Just replace the F36 with a standard 1n4004 diode and you’ll be good to

Alright I have ordered a standard 1n4004 diode. Should be in hopefully by the end of week. Which way should the current be flowing? Just want to make sure the new diode is sending current the correct way to work!

Thanks

 

[RyanL]

I believe just replacing the F36 should do it for you, I’m not sure the other component is diode, I’d have to look it up. Just replace the F36 with a standard 1n4004 diode and you’ll be good to

Hey Jotulrob,

I have received the replacement standard 1n4004 diode. Any update to which way the diode should be installed to correctly send the current to get my blower fan working? Should the current be flowing to the nearest end of the circuit board or the farthest end of the circuit board?

Looking forward to hearing back! Thanks

 

[kgb66]

Just updating. It’s a small surface mount diode that has failed just after the fuse. Easy and very cheap repair. If anyone runs into this or needs help please get ahold of me instead of wasting several hundred dollars.

Hey, I'm having this same exact issue. Not sure if you'll get notice of my reply but I was looking for some help. I have a Proflame and woke up this weekend to beeping because the receiver had dead batteries. Replaced those and now when I turn it on the lights and fan surge/pulse.