Progress Hybrid secondary plate warping

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wildcatbb

wildcatbb

Member
Feb 2, 2015
101
Ohio
i was cleaning my progress hybrid stove when I noticed what looks like the fireback(I guess that's what they call the secondary plate in there) is warped right in the middle. Any one else notice this? Is this common? It makes me wonder how it got like that. The stove normally only runs around 350-450 range and I've only seen it hit 600 one time when I loaded it down with a bunch of smalls. Any ideas? I guess I should call Woodstock and inquire. They've been 100% great on any other issues I've encounteted.
 

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Notice any difference in operation?
 
Do you ever open the air more than 1/4 open other than when starting a fire or burning down coals? I saw that blurb in the manual, not sure if that could be the cause or not.
 
No....once the stove top is up around 350 we shut it down to around 1/8 to 1/4 open. That's all we ever really need
 
Seems to operate ok but I can see that it appears the rope gasket is missing in that spot...I would think I would be losing some efficiency somewhere but I could be wrong.
 
Could be that an air leak in that area is overheating it. How old is the stove?
 
wildcatbb said:
i was cleaning my progress hybrid stove when I noticed what looks like the fireback(I guess that's what they call the secondary plate in there) is warped right in the middle. Any one else notice this? Is this common? It makes me wonder how it got like that. The stove normally only runs around 350-450 range and I've only seen it hit 600 one time when I loaded it down with a bunch of smalls. Any ideas? I guess I should call Woodstock and inquire. They've been 100% great on any other issues I've encounteted.
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You should send that photo to Woodstock and see what they say.
 
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I'd contact Woodstock, I burn mine at 550 most of the last few weeks and its still straight as an arrow.
 
Some early stoves got a rebuild due to similar issues - ours is a Jan 2012 model and got the rebuild by Woodstock in the summer of 2013.
 
Doesn't cost anything.

I think they may take your stove back and ship you a rebuilt one, or perhaps rebuild yours at the factory over the summer.

Don't worry, and call them next week.
 
Ok...in the mean time I filled the gap with some gasket material and a little cement! I hated to but I still need to use it and i don't want to take any chances on it! Kind of frustrating but with the luck I've had out of Woodstock so far in sure it won't be an issue. I never really paid that much attention until the other I noticed what looked like 4-5"of gasket missing right there.
 
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The cement has to stay cold for a while to set......

Just gasket would be fine, I think, until the repair. But talk to Woodstock. They'll probably send you the correct gasket , and will definitely tell you what to do meanwhile.....

I'm sure it's safe to burn.

The assumption is that my stove (dec 2011) has the issue, but I don't see it. Maybe I'm just lucky.
 
I'm sure it's safe too...just wanna make sure is the only reason I did it. I hear all the horror stories of runaway stoves, but that one has never done it. Runs cool actually and always has...it doesnt need to run hot with all that mass! It heats all my 3000 sq ft with ease, we just leave the central furnace blower on to circulate! Best stove I've ever been around by far, but they all have their quirks
 
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Just out of curiosity, how do you measure temps on it? Do you use the woodstock thermometer? An IR?

Not second guessing you, just wondering where and how you are doing it for comparison sake.

pen
 
I used the Woodstock thermometer until the paint flaked on one spot and my kid tried helping it out and then I bought a new one. It says meecos red devil on it. It has ran the same temps as it did with the thermometer that came with the stove
 
Tenn Dave said:
What issue did your stove have that caused Woodstock to rebuild it?
Click to expand...

Some of the early PHs had the OP's issue. Look at the photo and then compare it to your stove - where the photo has a gasket'ed joint held by screws (or rivets?), my rebuilt version has 7 welds across that span plus the screws (can't see in there well enough right now to know if those really are screws or not), with no gasket material showing. Ours began to show issues after 5-8 cord went through it. We finished out the 2012-2013 burn season with it like that, and they fixed it in the summer of 2013. Access to that part is not trivial - the cast top of the stove comes off and quite a few parts come out.
 
Flamestead said:
Some of the early PHs had the OP's issue. Look at the photo and then compare it to your stove - where the photo has a gasket'ed joint held by screws (or rivets?), my rebuilt version has 7 welds across that span plus the screws (can't see in there well enough right now to know if those really are screws or not), with no gasket material showing. Ours began to show issues after 5-8 cord went through it. We finished out the 2012-2013 burn season with it like that, and they fixed it in the summer of 2013. Access to that part is not trivial - the cast top of the stove comes off and quite a few parts come out.
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Thanks for the info. I will check mine when the fire dies down before next reload.
 
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Yes, thanks for the info! I'd rather not be tearing that thing completely down and rebuilding it myself. Hopefully they resolve it! I'll keep you updated of how it turns out. I plan on calling them tomorrow
 
wildcatbb said:
Yes, thanks for the info! I'd rather not be tearing that thing completely down and rebuilding it myself. Hopefully they resolve it! I'll keep you updated of how it turns out. I plan on calling them tomorrow
Click to expand...
Yes, please keep us in the loop.
 
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